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Thread: Rear main seal

  1. #1
    mouce's Avatar
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    Default Rear main seal

    The oil stains on the drive way have finally gotten the better of me, so now I need to do the rear main seal.

    I know that the engine is meant to come out to do it, but I don't have an engine crane and don't want to buy one just to do the main seal.

    So...is there any way that it's possible to do the rear main seal on a VN series 1 V6 with the engine still in the car? I really don't feel like giving my car to a mechanic to do this (best quote I've gotten so far is about $850), I'd rather do it myself if it's possible to.

    Anyone got good news for me?
    Gravity is proof that nature keeps getting us down.

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    I'll be doing my rear main in about a month or two when I get time off uni. You don't have to take the engine out to do it. You are better off taking the the gearbox off and doing it that way. I'm killing two birds with one stone cos I need a new gearbox so I'll do the rear main and gearbox at the same time.

    I would highly suggest getting a gregory's manual as it gives a fully detailed section on how to replace the seal without removing the engine.
    They go for about $40 at supa cheap or repco or wherever but it will save you a hell of a lot of pissin round

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    Hey, I've got a gregory's, but my one recommends taking the engine out. That's why I'm asking. I carry my Gregory's with me everywhere I go pretty well...so I know it backwards. They're damn good.

    Have you got a S1 or S2 engine?
    Gravity is proof that nature keeps getting us down.

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    I was quoted $700 for our VB, The stains are still on the driveway.

    Can't you hire a engine crain?
    Quote Originally Posted by Yoda
    Do, or do not. There is no 'try'.
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    Actually, I just washed the stains off the drive way. Got some seriously heavy duty industrial grade cleaner and spray on and hose off. I've got no idea what is in the cleaner but I'm sure it's not good. It just made the oil vanish.

    I could just keep washing the stains away, but I'd rather fix the seal. And yeah, I probably could hire an engine crane, but if I can leave the engine in and do it that would be better.
    Gravity is proof that nature keeps getting us down.

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    Full Spectrum's Avatar
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    It might not be good enough for me i got 10 years of 200 litres on it.
    And whats worse is the ground is painted i might loose the paint to
    Quote Originally Posted by Yoda
    Do, or do not. There is no 'try'.
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    I still haven't worked that out yet, but its 1990 so prob S1
    I went to a couple of mechanics and both told me only the gearbox needs to be taken out and the gregory's says the engine doesn't need to be out to do it.

    Anyone else done a home job of this???

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    Quote Originally Posted by mouce
    The oil stains on the drive way have finally gotten the better of me, so now I need to do the rear main seal.

    I know that the engine is meant to come out to do it, but I don't have an engine crane and don't want to buy one just to do the main seal.

    So...is there any way that it's possible to do the rear main seal on a VN series 1 V6 with the engine still in the car? I really don't feel like giving my car to a mechanic to do this (best quote I've gotten so far is about $850), I'd rather do it myself if it's possible to.

    Anyone got good news for me?
    hi,ive done it on a hoist-my mates work shop,you need a brace bar across the mudguards to hold the engine,then raise the car,mark the front suspension -mounting points,undo 4 bolts and the steering uni joint ,engine mountings and lower the sub assembly,will drop about 330-450mm you need that much for sump bolts and to remove it,undo bearing caps about 3mm and remove rear only-the crank will stay. remove 1/2 seals and replace the top one first it has to be crushed into groove-tighten front and the last cap near rear to lift crank and force seal in-cut with sharp utility knife about 3mm longer on eack end and try to push ends in, when realy tight, trim flush.fit the other 1\2 to bearing cap, forcing in tight,trim 1mm each end longer and bolt up,to force round the crank tight,remove check make sure its tight and trim -flush but a little high in the middle-tapered to squash when bolted,re-fit caps and re tension bolts to torque.re fit sump,use a good sealer in corners,ps.-check oil pick up screen may be blocked-can clean .replace sump and gear box brace,just remebered starter motor,have to disconect battery! lift and line up suspension and steering uni-joint,engine mountings and tighten all bolts-----re check bolts.dont forget oil! cheers

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    ^^^Sweet. I read it through twice, and reckon that I 'should' be able to do it all. Just gotta find someone with a hoist that will let me use it.
    Gravity is proof that nature keeps getting us down.

  10. #10
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    i have massive car probs at the moment dude, im getting heaps replaced on my vn including 1 rear main oil seal. and yer the mechanic is doing that. hes already pulling my engine out to replace other parts so yer im not too fussed hey...its gonna happen either way tho so yer...good luck with urs
    VY works currently in PRODUCTION!!

    Engine will still be sloow!!!!! ;-)

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