Hey
I am really confused.
I recently put in a new head unit into my vn wagon. I used a conversion kit that plugs straight into the factory plug. This was simple no problems at all..
As you all know you have to take the centre console off when doing this. On my console next to the shifter I have a few guages i.e. g/box temp & G/box oil pressure. So I took this off and undone the hoses going to both guages.
For some reason now I am not sure whether this is a coincedence or not but my fuel pump is making a hell of a whining noise and my car stalls when in gear or acclerating?, It starts back up straight away but no probs.
I even turn off the car & the fuel pump is still whining. Then it eventually stops.![]()
WTF have I done, surely installing a head unit would not effect the fuel pump? Or have a I touch something that I should not have?
Unless this is a coincedence and my fuel pump just happens to be on its way out? I also did recently replace the fuel filter as well.
Please help. I was going to go out a get a new fuel pump but i wanted to know if this was something simple? Because it was working fine before the install.
When you put the h/u in no doubt you disconnected the battery. Make sure that you reset the computer.
As for the fuel pump, I can't see how it would have been screwed up with fitting a new h/u, the fuel pumps in VN's are notorious for letting go.
One thing worth noting is that mechanical gauges are illegal. You can be defected for them. If they are electrical gauges then it's all good, but mechanical gauges are frowned upon for street use. Reason being is that with a mechanical gauge you have a high pressure/high temperature capilary line run into the cabin. In the advent of an accident if it gets ruptured you have high temperature fluid pissing out everywhere.
The only mechanical gauges that are permitted are vacuum or boost gauges. Everything must be electrical.
As for your problem, test for engine error codes, reset the computer, see how it's going after that, if your pain still persists take one new fuel pump and a couple of beers.
Gravity is proof that nature keeps getting us down.
hi thanks 4 the reply
In actual fact I did not disconnect the negative terminal when installing the head unit..![]()
I will reset the ecu anyways and see what error codes display if any.
As the for the guages I bought the car with the guages alredy in there. I was thinking about taking them out anywayz.
Cheers
Check for error codes before you reset the ecu. See what's there.
Gravity is proof that nature keeps getting us down.
ok I will try this tomorrow evening & let u know how I go.
Thanks
sometimes with the VN fuel pumps get dislodged from there spot in the tank and sumtimes you can get them goin again by smacking underneath the tank with a rubber mallet.
THERE IS NO REPLACEMENT FOR DISPLACEMENT
If the fuel pump is that far gone then it's time to go to the nearest parts store and get a new one. It's true that beating crap out of them will get it going again, but it usually only works ONCE.
Gravity is proof that nature keeps getting us down.
I second that comment "mouce", no Fonzie style repairs here.
PS: Remember coincidences happen, and parts die. Its the way it is.
ok now I am further confused then before. Checked the ECU codes all is good as I get a 12.
I also bypassed the fuel pump (violet wire) and turned my car on and it started up and stalled instantly. What does this mean. Does this mean my pump is actually working?
I am now going to reset the ecu & test again a little later?
Any ideas?
I might take my H/Unit out and see what it does?
Could be something as simple as a fried coil pack, a busted CAI or a blocked fuel filter. Test your fuel pressure, let's go with the fuel pump for now, if your fuel pressure is low then I'd say that your pump has shat itself.
Another quick and easy test would be to see if you've actually got a spark at each of your plugs. If you're handy with a multimeter check out the coil packs.
Since the fuel pump is making all the noise, I'm going to say it's probably a fuel problem, but it may also be ignition. I can't see that it's related to the h/u, just seems like bad timing.
Gravity is proof that nature keeps getting us down.
ok so now i tried to start the car after disconnecting the battery and it now wont startCant here the fuel pump engage on start up).
Run another fault test and now i get "21" which means - Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) - Voltage Too High ? is this true?
Help
car still wont start!!!![]()
did u put the filter ont he right way dude??? i know it sounds stupid but it could be something as simple as that cos its what it sounds like
All this from a head unit install. Don't you just love it when a simple thing turns into your worst nightmare.
Maybe you disconnected something or blew a fuse accidently.
There isnt much behind the headunit or under the console , so what would cause all the problems .
You can try putting a jumper in the ALDL connector (i.e a paper clip etc) between the fuel pump connector and 12V. there's a pic of the connector here, it's terminals G and H .http://www.techedge.com.au/vehicle/aldl160/vn_aldl.htm
This makes the pump run continuously.
I know crap happens , but this seems too much of a coincidence.
According to my son anything that's not a brand name causes problems, so maybe you should have bought that JVCjust a joke.
cant be the fuel filter as I drove it home a far distance after I put it on.
I am getting a error cose 21 which is the TPS sensor so I will replace that today.
I will also try bridging the fuel pump and the 12V pin to get the pump running. Because after I bridged the pump with the earth i can't here the fuel pump working now? Maybe this is why I cant start? Can earthing the fuel pump in the ALDL cause the pump to shit down until u power it up again?
But why do I get a error 21 now? Before I reset the ecu I had "12" now I have a error 21, seems a bit strange..
I was getting differing error messages on mine because of a fault in the computer. Is it possible that you disturbed the wires behind the passenger kick panel.Originally Posted by crae
With the ALDL linking, it keeps the pump running continuously (only when ignition on). I have heard with these pumps that if they happen to stop on a bad segment of the commutator they won't start. So banging the tank, powering on and off a few times can start it up.
You should hear the fuel pump for a few seconds after turning on the ignition.
Mine still has an occasional dummy spit with pump, I,m going to run my own bypass wires down to the pump and an emergency switch so I can't get caught out. Because when it won't start, even bridging the ALDL doesnt work. I have a wiring problem somewhere I guess as the pump is only a month old. It sounds to me that you have disturbed some wiring . These older commodores start getting bad connections, and according to the Gregorys manual, these are the majority of the faults.
Sorry can't be more help, but sometimes a bit of brainstorming works.
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ok i bridged the fuel pump test to the 12 v connector and the car now starts.. no problem.. So this means that it is something electrical between the fuel pump.
I just got a new tps sensor tonight so I will put that in right now & let you know how i go with things...fingers crossed..
hey I took the TB off and I cant get the sensor off because I do not have the right tool. I have alien keys but the screws look like a star shape not hex? Any one no what this tool is called?
Cheers
I,m pretty sure they call them Torx. And what did those pesky aliens do to your keysOriginally Posted by crae
They can be tricky without the right bit.
You can get cheap kits from the likes of crazy clarks(QLD) for about $5 that have most of those strange bits, not good quality but ok .
I have got torx screws off before , with careful selection of a small slotted screwdriver.But it's a bit hit or miss.
Good news about the pump still working. Just try and trace where the power is stopping. Have you got a circuit diagram of the car wiring in a gregories?
Last edited by Frd_thmsn; 23-05-2006 at 10:18 PM.
Before you start changing too much just try jiggling a few wires and see if the pump will work,(note you have to turn the ignition off and on between tests).
That large black box on the drivers side under the bonnet that has relays in it, just try wiggling the wires underneath it.
The plugs that are in the computer behind the passenger kick panel , try removing and replacing them.
And see if the pump comes good. I know crap and coincidence happens , but if you never had any TPS errors before and they coincidently started at the same time , it sounds more like an electrical problem in the wiring going to the ECU to me. I have started replacing the terminals that go to the relays on mine, because I had a few complete shut downs a couple of months ago. Haven't had any prob last few weeks since putting in another ECU and fuel pump .
I started replacing things because I figured at least I can eliminate them and hey they don't last forever anyway.So no harm done.
thanks for the help.
God dam those aliens!!![]()
I forgot to mention that when I tried to reverse or put a load on the car with the fuel pump test bridged the car stalls again. This makes me think it could be the TPS sensor still. As it controls how much fuel get pumped etc..
But I will replace that tonight once I get the torx tool and see how it goes then..
Not sure how I will go tonight as the State of Origin is on.. Go the Maroons!!
sometimes i have seen the TPS code come up on these but once the car starts it may go away i wouldnt replace the TPS yet id start with the fuel pump
hey guys,
You would not read about it. My problem boiled down to a 15 amp fuseAt least I cleaned the TB after all that & replaced the TPS sensor. I should of checked all fuses 1st..
Anywayz after taking the TB off I cant seem to get the throttle cable sorted with the spring. It does not return to the original spot after accelrating it seems to stick there. Can anyone describe or better yetr shoe me a pic of how the springs are meant to be placed.
Thanks for all of the replys..
Cheers
Oh yeah after I replaced the TPS my engine check light is still displaying. So I ran another ecu test and got the same code "21".. Do I have to reset ecu after replacing the sensor?
Cheers
which fuse was it in the end that was killing you?
yeah, you'll have to reset the ecu to clear the code. Though if the engine light was on, that might mean something else is not too happy.
Gravity is proof that nature keeps getting us down.