Diff Whine/Howl/Noise

[chromic]

I need to get my diff bearings relaced as it is rather noisy (I had 2 mechanics opinions after they took it for a drive) I got quoted about $600 to get it fixed.

I was wondering how hard is this job to take on yourself. Has anybody done this themselves and what tools are involved? I'm game enough to have a go (I don't use the ute all that often so it's no big deal if it's off the road for a few days) if it is straightforward enough as it's always nice to save a bit of money if possible but I'm willing to cop it on the chin if it isn't worth it and let the mechanic do it if that's the better option.

Thoughts?

[Shounak]

Nahh.. Don't do it unless you really know what you're doing..

Most mechanics won't even do this, they'll just give it to a diff specialist to do and bolt it back in..

[andy05]

I need to get my diff bearings relaced as it is rather noisy (I had 2 mechanics opinions after they took it for a drive) I got quoted about $600 to get it fixed.

I was wondering how hard is this job to take on yourself. Has anybody done this themselves and what tools are involved? I'm game enough to have a go (I don't use the ute all that often so it's no big deal if it's off the road for a few days) if it is straightforward enough as it's always nice to save a bit of money if possible but I'm willing to cop it on the chin if it isn't worth it and let the mechanic do it if that's the better option.

Thoughts?

Whats a noisy diff sound like? Never heard one before. Does it sound like a car in reverse gear, that type of whine, or something different?

[commy92]

easy as to do mate. Ill try and find you some links to installing a spool. Much the same. Should only take you a day.

http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showth...ght=mini+spool

There is a link on there to step by step instructions. Give me a yell if you can get it or soemthing ill upload it. If your in qld around brisbane somewhere ide be more then happy to do it for you for some dosh dosh

[chromic]

Shounak: I didn't know that most mechanics send it off to the diff specialists. Commy92 just sent me a link to check out, hmm let's see what I'm going to be in for

andy05: Yeah that sound you described as it being like a car in reverse is pretty much spot on. The sound is much louder in the ute compared to my wagon I used to have, probably because of the lack of carpet, insulation, etc.

commy92:Nice write up! That's just what I need. Shame I'm in NSW, if I was from around your neck of the woods I would have given you a buzz. Thanks again for the link as it really shows me what is involved.

[digisol]

If the crownwheel / pinion gears are shot it's usually due to low or contaminated oil, I have a diff gear set in good nick you can have, but doing that if your new to that sort of thing is not advised, setting up the bearing preload on the pinion is via a crushable seal on the pinion, doing it wrong will make more noises than before.

I have the entire diff / housing here pulled apart.

The gear set I have is fine and was removed from the VS due to faulty wheel bearings not diff noise.

It would be simpler and a LOT cheaper to change over the entire diff housing as a unit, brakes etc, but check the oil quality and the handbrake linings before puting it back on, saves time later.

If the new / second hand housing has black oil steer clear of it, grab one that has fairly clean oil, (stuff that still resembles gear oil) not burnt crude oil.

There should be several here in the 4 sale section, you may be better of getting a LSD rear end, the handling and traction especially on slippery roads is vastly improved.

Warning tho, make sure you get a housing off the same vehicle, my LSD rear end came off a VN wagon and the brake lines have different thread sizes on the ends compared to a VS wagon, and all brakes and lines off my VS housing had to be swapped over onto the new VN housing, so check that.

Changing a entire housing could be done at home with chassis stands and a couple of good floor jacks, pulling em off aint hard, remove shocks fron the body, back off the main adjuster and remove the handbrake lines from the backing plates, undo the top arms from the diff end and push up out of the way, undo the stabiliser bar link from the body and lower it away from the body, remove the brake lines from the calipers (last) and remove from the housing's brake line clamps and also the centre junction that holds the line connection to the housing, Of course before undoing anything like upper / lower arms, put the jacks under the housing and take the weight, remove the "front" lower arm bolts and the upper arm bolts "off the diff", when ready lower the entire housing down and away, the springs will simply fall out when low enough, watch your head !

Instalation is pretty much the reverse just dont forget the insulators go on the top of the springs, if the new housing has lower arms that are OK leave em on the housing, raise the housing up until the lower and upper arm bolts connect up, (it can't fall off then) re-install the shocks etc etc, bleed all brakes by allowing them to simply gravity bleed, or do it the good bear way, 6 of 1 or half a doz the other, same thing, your choice.

Check upper and lower arm bushes, shocks, all brakes, disks, use the best ones you have there, simple to change the upper arms, lower arms are best done off the car before returning the other housing due to the spring tension.

I suggest using two floor jacks as it's safer, but one and a good offsider will do it much the same, although the spring tension will tend to push the housing down on one side, two "decent" floor jacks is much easier.

If you want the gear set it's + postage only but it's better to grab an entire housing ready to bolt on.

Having fun yet ? Go for it.