Starter Motor - S1 & S2 the same?

[VN Commy]

My starter motor decided to die today (never had any signs that it was going to fail). It starts cranking the engine but then just starts rapidly ticking. I think the solenoids are gone. I'm after a replacement and already sussed out that the auto and manual staters are different but is there any difference between the series one and two starters?

Cheers

[maginoodle]

sounds like your battery may be no good.

[Boonz]

the series 1 is ten tooth and the series 2 is 9 teeth, series 1 has a higher current draw hence why they changed this in series 2

[CSL]

one is a delco unit the other a boshe (i think) anyway it sounds like your batery has dies and that could be caused by a faulty voltage reg on uor alternator. get a mulitimeter onto your battery, a good battery should read approx 12.7 volts and the alternator shiould read 13.4-14.4 volt when running

[chopsy]

Would a series 1 starter still fit and work in a series 2 though?

[PaRaDoX]

Would a series 1 starter still fit and work in a series 2 though?

nope, the starter motors teeth connect to the flywheel to crank it over,

Vn commy
its located inbetween the headers and the block, on the passengerside
i changed my not too long ago, it has 3 bolts, i can guide u through replacing it if u want...
i got a reco'd starter motor for $30 after mine died last wedensday
i ripped my old one out, (bosch) it was smaller and was only bolted in at 2 places where the original one is ment to be 3 bolts... it was also smaller...
apparently your ment to replace the fly wheel with the starter motor, if u replace it check the status of your flywheel as u can see it.. mines a bit worn.. give me a pm if u need help fitting it.. (you have to remove the headers, air pipe, spark plugs just to get to the bolts and wiring)

the series 2 starter i believe was modified becuase of the way the engine was modified so block didnt have to removed to replace the rear main seal, give your starter a whack with a spanner a few times, you might get a few more weeks out of it

[VN Commy]

Thanks for all the help guys. I smacked the crap out of the starter motor but it still wouldn't start to let me drive home. It just so happens that the battery is dead aswell, you think that this would have caused the starter to just do the rapid ticking thing and not crank? When I got the car roll started and was driving it home at night (by this time the battery was completely dead from cranking and lights ect) the lights were really dim and my instrument cluseter wasn't working. Flicking on the high beams caused the car to stutter. Will this be because I need a new battery or because the alternator isn't doing it's job?

I've got a series one engine, so I gather a series two starter wont just bolt up without modification?

Thanks Paradox616 I'll give you a buzz if I need help fitting it.

Oh yeah, before all the dramas with the starter motor the car just completely cut out while I was idling down the street. When I tried to get it restarted the starter just did it's ticking thing. I'm not sure if this has anything to do with the electrical problems I have at the moment. When I turned the car to on I couldn't hear the fuel pump working (it was a busy street so hard to hear but I'm pretty sure it wasn't). I played around with that a bit and eventually got it to come on when I turned the key. So I don't know wether it was the fuel pump or my dying battery (or alternator) that caused the car to cut out.

[VN Commy]

Ok I just put the battery from my other car in and all seemed to be fine. It took a few goes to start, for some reason it kept cutting out. When the fuel pump first came on it was making strange noises. It sounded like it was sending huge air bubbles back into the petrol tank. I've never heard it do that before. My battery light is on but that's been on since a put a new circut board in my instrument cluster (the one with the voltage regulator) so I was thinking it was just that, now im not so sure.

[maginoodle]

have your alt checked or get a multimeter and do it yourself. it should charge between 13.8 and 14.4 volts.

[VN Commy]

How do I connect the multimeter to check the alternator? The battery from my other car reads 12.7 volts but when its in the holden with the engine running it only reads 12.0 volts.

[CSL]

read my post above, then go to bursons, by a voltage reg for your particular alternator (same accross all makes basically) take your alernator off, put the new voltage reg onto the back of it, and your battery light should go out

[PaRaDoX]

i know this might sound silly, i thought it did too untill it happened to me, clean your battery terminals..

this happened to me, caused no end of problems... alarm to randomly go off.. car wouldnt start

yeah sounds like the regulator, i think mines dieing aswell.. usually with the electronics, if something dies, it takes something with it, (alternator & battery)

[VN Commy]

Ok I'll clean the battery terminals properly. I recently replaced one of the connectors because it had corroded away. I did a kind of half assed job of cleaning the rest.
I'm no good at the electrical side of things... What does the voltage regulator look like? I've got a multimeter but is there any way to check the voltage across the alternator before I go replacing things? I can't see where to connect the multimeter without unpluging the alternator...

[PaRaDoX]

umm, well see after the voltage is created in the alternator it is passed through the regulator, where its limited, so it cant create a surge or a spike and damage other things, so finding the voltage IS possible.. just not going to be a easy task, the easiest way of measuring it... is measure the voltage with the car off, then with the car on... that will give u a bried idea of how much the alternator is putting out, auto elecs can run tests on your alternator/regulator and tell you if its stuffed...

[VN Commy]

Cheers I think I might have it sorted now. Tomorow I'll try connecting the voltmeter between the output terminal and a ground and check the voltage. I'll also check the wrecker and see if I can score a cheap voltage regulator.

[PaRaDoX]

apparently they're priced round $40 so is it worth going cheaper???

[VN Commy]

Ok today I bought a brand new voltage regulator and cleaned the terminals but the battery warning light still comes on. Anyone got any ideas? Buying a whole new alternator is pretty expensive but it looks like thats the way I might have to go. Just got no money at the moment..