leaking oil sump

[Melville P Lazaro]

Can some body tell me how to remove my oil sump from my vp and to fix the leak?

[s_pack]

Gonna need a hoist, engine needs to be raised to get to the bloody thing..

[Boonz]

engine hoist, lift the engine off the mounts, undo sump bolts..... sounds easy but its not... is it your rear main seal or your actual oil pan seal?

[Garth]

undo the rear gearbox mount, not at the body, but at the actual gearbox this alows the gearbox to move and still be suported
undo the exaust flange's, both sides.
undo the engine mounts, under the car, dont try to remove them from the block.
undo and remove the air intake pipe.
with great care lift the motor up in the air, only untill the engine mounts come out of the slots underneath, and check to see if the throttle body is touching the fire wall, if it does, remove throtle body.
engine needs to be lifted around the 3 inch mark inorder for you to gain good access to the sump.
simply use a 13 mm or half inch socket to undo around 16 bolts, and the starter motor bolt's and drop the sump on the k-frame, then slide backwards.
simple remove the old gasket, and put new one on. give the sump a good cleanup and while there, check the oil pickup tube, if dirty and covered incrap, remove and replace. i would prob sugest doing it anyways.

if it's the rear oil seal, then gearbox needs to come out completly

i would probly also sugest you disconect all gearbox wiring, there will be 2 plugs, one is the speed sensor, located at the yoke, and the other is the park neutral switch and torque converter lockup solenoid plug, on the passengers side of box. and just check the stretch on the gearbox oil cooling lines, to make sure you dont kink the cooling lines, if they kink, they are buggered, and will need replacing with new ones, cause it's only small and thin aluminium lines once they bend, you are unable to remove the kink
also i would prob sugest disconecting the gear selector, it's a 14mm open ended spanner on the passanger side.

[Morton]

Getting somebody to do it for you will cost about as much as your car, too. You're almost better off buying a $500 wreck and putting a new motor in your car.

[Melville P Lazaro]

undo the rear gearbox mount, not at the body, but at the actual gearbox this alows the gearbox to move and still be suported
undo the exaust flange's, both sides.
undo the engine mounts, under the car, dont try to remove them from the block.
undo and remove the air intake pipe.
with great care lift the motor up in the air, only untill the engine mounts come out of the slots underneath, and check to see if the throttle body is touching the fire wall, if it does, remove throtle body.
engine needs to be lifted around the 3 inch mark inorder for you to gain good access to the sump.
simply use a 13 mm or half inch socket to undo around 16 bolts, and the starter motor bolt's and drop the sump on the k-frame, then slide backwards.
simple remove the old gasket, and put new one on. give the sump a good cleanup and while there, check the oil pickup tube, if dirty and covered incrap, remove and replace. i would prob sugest doing it anyways.

if it's the rear oil seal, then gearbox needs to come out completly

i would probly also sugest you disconect all gearbox wiring, there will be 2 plugs, one is the speed sensor, located at the yoke, and the other is the park neutral switch and torque converter lockup solenoid plug, on the passengers side of box. and just check the stretch on the gearbox oil cooling lines, to make sure you dont kink the cooling lines, if they kink, they are buggered, and will need replacing with new ones, cause it's only small and thin aluminium lines once they bend, you are unable to remove the kink
also i would prob sugest disconecting the gear selector, it's a 14mm open ended spanner on the passanger side.

Thanks guys