Took my Clarion Pro Audio Sub from my VL and am trying to install it into my HSV VPII. Iv mounted it in the boot behind the seats (attached amp to the box) and just wondering which way is the best way to wire it from there. Iv been told that running the wires up both sides of the car stops interference?? Like i said, just wondering which ways best and what sides the firewall on etc.
MaTT
Easiest way to run ur power cable thru firewall is to drill a hole next to the car wiring that comes thru wall on the driver side n run up to the boot on that side then run ur RCA leads n remote lead up the other side of the car...
Should only take bout an hour to do it if that...there are pics round on other threads that show good spots for ur cable to run thru... just do a search and u should find em...
On the VP Commodore, there should be a spare rubber gromet in the firewall behind your brake pedal switch. You can't see it from the inside, but you can see it as a grey rubber oval in the firewall from the engine bay side. Using a screwdriver, you can wedge the gromet out, poke a hole in it, and run your 8ga wire through it.
If you can't locate it, I'll try and get a pic of mine.
Then, as cruzin said, run the power cable up one side, and your rcas/remote up the other side.
I, from personal preference, mounted the sub on the floor behind the passenger side seat. I tried a whole bunch of different setups, but I was getting too much delay on the low frequencies when the sub was in the boot. (I'm very picky, and the slightest bit shits me off).
Best place for your ground, would probably be a bolt behind the rear seats.
If you want some more ideas, I'll take some snaps of my installation.
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The 1972 HQ Kingswood
The 1989 VN Turbo Rally Project
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As for the wiring, you're right. I ran the power up one side, audio up the other, no interference whatsoever. There should be at least 30cm of space between any parallel power/audio lines.
Best of luck mate.
Life's Grouse in Frankston South!
Also happens to be one of the easiest ways to make your car unroadworthy too.Originally Posted by calais_cruzin
Gravity is proof that nature keeps getting us down.
The only way to tell that my amp wiring is there is under the hood on the battery. Extra terminal and large fuse mount. The rest of it runs up next to the overflow and into the firewall where the throttle cable is. Can't be seen at all.
Life's Grouse in Frankston South!
Here's a picture of my bonnet wiring. I've included a photo of the grommet I used to run the 8ga wire through the firewall. I've even coloured the wire red so you can't miss it ^^ Finding the grommet shouldn't be too hard. Neither should getting it out. It's putting the damn thing back in that'll keep you busy all night.![]()
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The 1972 HQ Kingswood
The 1989 VN Turbo Rally Project
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Mine's very very similar to Morton's. In fact it could even be the same kit. The on difference is I took the fuse/relay block out and mounted it to the angled underside and ran the wire behind it.
Nice job by the way.
Life's Grouse in Frankston South!
Hey, thanks fazz ^^ Mine was an 8ga kit, around $60 from Autobarn. Came with a terribly short length of ground wire. Sound the same?![]()
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The 1972 HQ Kingswood
The 1989 VN Turbo Rally Project
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Exactly the same, except I got mine off ebay for about $35ish. About 2' feet of black 8ga ground wire. I grounded it to a bolt in the rear seats next to where I mounted it.
It's good to see someone take pride in their wiring though. I'm forever popping the hood on cars only to find second-rate half-arsed wiring that's a serious potential for a fire hazard. Me being the anal-retentive network administrator I am (yes, I deal with KMs of CAT5E every day) I go to work with the cable ties and assorted goodies making it safe and pretty in no time.
Here's mine, I drive a wagon... so I had to get creative:
Life's Grouse in Frankston South!
Fazz1977
i hope you like upgrading amplifiers regularly
the vibrations from the sub will reduce the life of the soldier joints in the PCB for the amp, as a result insted of the soldier joints lasting 50 years like they're ment to they might last 1-5 years, seen it happen before, vibrations dont do amps any good alot of people will say "it dosnt matter" and wonder why their amp breaks after like 2 years.. ive had to resoldier joints on a amp that my brother which he was using bolted to his box...
never drill through the firewall, they're is a grommit there anyway as someone pointed out,
running the 12V constant down one side of the car and RCA/12V accessory line down the other will eliminate noise in the line as the 12v current can cause magnetic interfearance as the ammount of current is pretty high....certianly enough to kill you if exposed in the right spot
Hmm,
The previous owner of my car has run the power and rca's down the same side of the car and I don't have any interference at all, and I run two amps, and a free air sub.
I was going to change it when I upgraded the head unit and the front splits but it didn't make a difference.
Strange how it seems to create problems in one car and not another.
i ran all the wires down the same side once.. got told off by a mate.. i didn't notice any difference. even though these days i do run all wires away from the the power wire. just the make sure.
i had a kenwood bolted to my sub box.. i wonder why it started playing up. hahaha. stupid me.. why didn't i think of that..
In case you hadn't noticed, the amp is actually in a car, and anyone familiar with victorian roads knows how bumpy they are, this creates vibrations, compared to this anything the sub does is insignificant.
The amp is mounted on rubber feet anyway, the vibrations from the engine creates more movement that the sub it's self. Anyway, a properly sealed box (anyone using a ported cab in a car is crazy, lower SPL and all) won't vibrate, not if it's built correctly. I'm a musician, I used to build high end instrument and PA cabinets... I know what I'm doing. It's all good.
Last edited by fazz1977; 15-07-2006 at 11:50 AM.
Life's Grouse in Frankston South!