heres a list of things that cause bad fuel economy..
0.Bad tyre pressure ( standard pressure u should have is around 36 p.s.i. in each tyre)
1.o2 sensor ( replace it)
2.Coolant Temp Sensor (replace it)
3.Air filter dirty (clean throttle body & replace air filter)
4.Thermostat (replace it )
5.Fuel filter ( replace it )
6.injectors or Fuel Pressure Regulator & Spark plugs or Leads (Need cleaning & or replacing)
7.Cracked Manifold ( get pressure tested, if cracked replace both)
8.Blown headgasket ( check for oil in water vice versa,cracked head) engine reco
9.Lead foot ( time to buy a 4 cyl car)
Later...
Last edited by aussieghostrider; 10-07-2006 at 08:07 PM.
i had a hire car - new hyundai getz and economy was good but when i drove with my lead foot it was nearly the same as my vn with my lead foot
Also i think another is to keep the car in the White D when under 80kmh and blue D when in need of 4th gear.
ride; [GMHVN6] Project Streeter - VN Berlina '90 mods; 65mm throttle-body / Cold Air Intake / 8mm Ignition Leads / Exhaust
future; Extractors , Cam currently; 101.2rwkw mission; 110rwkw
Just get a manualMuch better.
10. Excess weight in the car. Take out all the junk that you don't actually NEED to be lugging around. Makes a bit of a difference.
Gravity is proof that nature keeps getting us down.
the blue d as stated in the manual (i was curious) is overdrive and is for subruban drivng. i think the white d is for overtaking...
correct me if im wrong
You can use the white D (or 2) to down-shift and prepare for overtaking (eg before you pull out on a two-way highway), but otherwise, dropping the hammer does a damn fine job of that by itself ^^
I tend to believe that having the car in either one of the Ds doesn't make -too- much of a difference in suburban driving. Overdrive only really has an effect on fuel economy when coasting at and above 60. I tend to pull the car back into 3rd (white D) when I'm coasting down a hill at 60, so the car engine brakes a little. Saves me riding the brakes all the way downhill.
That's all opinion, though ^^
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The 1972 HQ Kingswood
The 1989 VN Turbo Rally Project
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I like mouce's approach.
Rethink everything though.
A light car, goes better, stops better, handles better as well as using less fuel.
Big wheels count twice because energy is absorbed in spinning them up when accelerating. Save them for the weekend or forget them altogether. You can't see them when you're driving anyway. Standards are cheaper to buy and run, less theft risk, ride better and probably handle better (more predictably).
No body kit. Likewise. Probably less aero. drag too.
Maybe lose the spare tyre in favour of foot pump and tyre repair kit - 20 kg there. Don't need a jack or wheel brace then either.
Get a pocket street directory. The full size ones are over 1kg.
Wheel trims - 0.56 kg/ , X4 - same as for big wheels.
Sound deadening - how much can you live without?
Gut the doors - don't need central locking on the rear doors, only on one door on the passenger side of the car. 0.6-0.7kg X 2 there. Same with wind up windows, especially electric.
Lose the rear seat and seat belts - another 10-15kg. How often do you carry more than one passenger anyway.
Lose the big stereo and carry your MP3 player. If you do carry passengers, everyone can listen to their own music then too. No CDs - 0.1kg each, no big speakers, amps, head unit, stacker. Got to be 5-6kg + there.
Get lighter friends, girl/boyfriend and lose some weight yourself.
Paint is heavy - 20-25kg. Consider stripping it back to bare metal. If it starts to rust, even better. When it starts to flake off, even less weight.
Lose a muffler. Better sound, better flow, less weight - 4-5kg there.
Use low viscosity oils in diff., engine, manual trans. for less friction.
Use the smallest brakes available on you model of car. If the car weighs less, it stops better anyway.
Go to manual steering. No power steering pump means less drag as well as less weight. 10kg? Saves money on going to gym too. Just park the car a few times.
Never drive with a full tank of fuel. 30l fuel = 25kg.
^^^Might have gone a little nuts there, but the idea is right. I was just talking about all the junk that my I sometimes end up with in the back of my car...workboots, a good sized toolbox, a couple of spare rims sometimes...the odd computer. That sort of stuff.
Gravity is proof that nature keeps getting us down.
Also i forgot to mention el cheapo fuel from Liberty or Woolworths petrol stations is highly diluted with ethanol so this will give u crap mileage.
Only get petrol from Shell,Bp or Mobil...
haha ^^Originally Posted by Cheap6
It's probably worth getting a carbon fibre bonnet too. Those things can save you what... 20kg? Added bonus: if you leave it black, all the civics will want to race you.
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The 1972 HQ Kingswood
The 1989 VN Turbo Rally Project
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Originally Posted by Cheap6
Bahahaha (too short) hahahahahaha
"It's probably worth getting a carbon fibre bonnet too. Those things can save you what... 20kg? Added bonus: "
Vn bonnets are pretty heavy. I have noticed some other cars that ive worked on have light bonnets.
Australia. Love it or leave it
buy aftermarket replacement panels, they suck but are lighter than stock items. my aftermarket bonnet is much lighter than stock but is dented along the front just from closing it.
I can see how that happens though. Bonnets on these things can take a fair whack to shut properly.
what caused you to get an aftermarket hood?
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The 1972 HQ Kingswood
The 1989 VN Turbo Rally Project
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a tree on the side of the road!! needed a new bonnet, bumper and reo after that. it doesnt need a good whack to close it, its just made from thin crappy steel.
i got a genuine second hand bonnet to go back on after i fix the dimples made by overtightened bonet protector screws and some silver paint.
im not after weight saving, id rather the car look decent. if i wanted weight saving, id get a sedan and pissof the subs in the back.
Doors too?
Front, shell only - 17kg
Rear, shell only - 13kg (sedan)
Some sort of composite has got to be lighter than those. Foam filled would help stiffness and crash resistance. Still illegal though.
(I'm only half joking with the other stuff, I got carried away and weighed a whole lot of things on (off) my car one bored Sunday arvo.)
How much is a coolant temp sensor, and where do you buy 'em?Originally Posted by aussieghostrider
Ah, nothing like a Datsun 120 WHY!
Same as everything, at Holden and ask![]()
Coolant temp sensor costs around $15-$20 from repco or similar....
its easy to fit .. its at back of throttle body , if u get mechanic to do its like 3 mins work aslong as engine is cool so when removed it dont spray hot coolant everywhere.
if you pay someone to do , dont pay more than $40 as its as easy as replacing the oxygen sensor.
AussieghostRider TY for posting how to get better fuel economy.
Im slowly working my way through your list and im noticing improvements already. Ive still got some of the list to go but its getting results already..
TY so much.. Cheers.. Rod