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Thread: crankshaft bolt?

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    Default crankshaft bolt?

    is the crankshaft bolt on my V6 reverse thread?
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    engine is facing upwards resting on the flywheel so the pool of crc in the pully can soak into the bolt. rattle gun couldnt budge it,
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    i found it easier when the engine was in the car, but i find soemthing to jam in the flywheel to stop it from moving then use a breaker bar and a piece of pipe on the end of it

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    engine was stripped except for flywheel crank (obviously) and cam ect. had a hauge braker bar and a 120kg bloke couldnt budge it, i sat in my shed watching TV and tapped the bolt with a dolley for half an hour and then got the braker back on it and it finally cracked. thank god.
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    im having this problem with a mates car, so how did you do yours, tapped it with a dolley? what is a dolley? stupid bolts they are, oh eah also the engine is still in the car which makes it a little a harder, going to give a few more goes if anyone has any great ideas, if i cant crack it by friday im going to pull the engine out and do it that way

    cheers, nick

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    just get a breaker bar wif a big handel on it or just slide a bit of pipe over the end of it for more leverage and ya should get it wif a bit of muscle power.

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    3/4" socket set which has a 1 meter handle with another piece of pipe, say another meter long. chock the car wheels and go for gold. mine's a manual so i just locked the engine in gear and stopped the car moving by chocking up the wheels, without, i move the whole car swinging on the power bar even with the handbrake on. the book says it's suppose to be torqued up to 325Nm. the other option is to put the power bar on, wedge it against the chassis and then crank the engine with the starter
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    yeha i put the bar on against the chassis and crank it over, no such luck and its an auto so im kinda buggered i think, just have to keep trying i guess,

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    a nother option is heating the bolt with an oxy, not good for the balencer though, a dolley is a hammer with a big block of steel for the head.
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    i just put a spanner on the bolt and gave the motor a quick turn over ( about half a second ) after i took the plug leads and it came off. Not the safest way but it worked for me
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    yeah i tried that as well dayvo, more than once, im going to try again this friday after work, got some mates coming over so hopefully be able to crack it loose, i reckon its absolutely covered in loctite, lol

    cheers, nick

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    there are several ways to get it off, firstly try the breaker bar with extension pipe, secondly, use the cranking the engine method (make sure to remove the engine fuse first, and give it short bursts), thirdly, you can use what is called a power/touque bar, its a long bar with a rotating socket inwhich you put the socket on the bolt and then smack the sh!t out of it with a hammer, but cost around $120. If all else fails remove the radiatior and use an 800 ft lb rattle gun, that will definetly get it off, but will cost you about $900.

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    yeah im going to borrow the torque bar from work, see if that works, if not will have to take it to work and use the rattle gun, will have to ask the boss first

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    Default F***en balancer bolt

    hey, had da same problem with the one in my VP. Talked to a mechanic after i tried for 3days with a rattle gun, and he said dat'll never budge it (was pretty small rattle gun but). What he said was to:
    First take the fuel pump fuse out then i blow torched the bolt (i was changing the harmonic balancer) then, i put the breaker bar with extention pipe on against the chassis and cranked it over which cracked the bolt first shot then used a puller to remove the balancer. Once i took the bolt off, realised that they had covered it in loctite....
    hope this helps

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    the easiest (safest) way to crack it is to get an old serpentine belt wrap it around the balancer (like an oil filter tool works) & air cond compressor pulley & get a big breaker bar & undo the bolt,. This will work every time.
    cranking it is way too dangerous, if it slips it can launch through the radiator or anywhere.
    like the ratty pic i drew... reverse the direction you wrap the belt to tighten it
    Rob
    Last edited by Doctor Bob; 26-09-2006 at 10:27 AM.

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    hey that sounds like a great idea doctor bob, you think you could set it up on someones car and take apic for me that digram you drew is a bit confusing for me, is there a certain size belt to use? and do also how would this actually work, i kind of have a fair idea now, after looking at the pic a few times,

    cheers, nick

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    when i had my out of the car, took a length of 1.5m-2m water pipe on a spanner and a sledge....they are on tight
    it says to tighten to 300nm lol with loctite

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    yeah i know, it doesnt help since it just been rebuilt and they would have covered it in loctite and put it up to torque spec

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    well im still stuck, mate needs his car so i cant pull the motor out, i was going to try with the belt and ac but he dont have air con, bugger, and i went to holden to see if i can borrow the ring gear tool special tool that holds the ring gear, but they wont lend it to me, he just bought a new starter motor so it might crack it this time, if not does heating it up really work? he needs a new balancer anyway and we already got the seal, and i got a spare bolt, any help would be great,
    cheers nick

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    as i said previoisly i had my engine on an engine stand so i smacked the bolt repedidly with a hamer while pulling on the bolt with a ring spanner and it worked evewntually, try removing the radiotor so you can get a decent swing and the vibration of the knock might loosen the bolt
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    yeah i was thinking about wrapping it around something but im worried about breaking the belt, and if i did get an ac compressor wouldnt that almost break it

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    borrow a rattle gun. a 3/4 inch one. that shoudl do the trick

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