Hi ppls i,ve got a vn 90 wagon with series 1 motor & series 2 radiator so i have the surge tank & the radiator cap done a full service on it as the coolant was a bit brown since then went to the shops came out to see coolant on the ground from my car thought it was head gasket so went & got a c/o test & it did,nt change colour so was told it was ok so can some one tell me the best way to bleed the air out of the cooling system & would i be able to buy a thermostat housing with a bleeder valve to fit my series 1 v6 & is repco coolant alright to use for it all replies welcome![]()
Hmm, well where is the coolant actually coming from? If it's coming from the surge tank after a short drive then your thermostat is probably stuck closed. If it's not coming from the surge tank then you probably have bigger problems than air in the system, something is leaking.
Beau Duke: Man, I'm never gonna get outta this car again. I'm gonna live in it, I'm gonna eat in it and I'm gonna make sweet love to it!
Luke Duke: You mean you're gonna make sweet love IN it.
Beau Duke: Oh no, I'm gonna have sex with it.
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Bleeding is easy, just bring the car to normal temperature and there is a pressure screw on top of the thermostat, with a phillips head, loosen it and let the air out and tighten it, just becareful that coolant might spray out. Or I suggest that you run your heater for a day or two (like not full day, when you go work and stuff), no air is left this way.
Originally Posted by bandit0014
had the same problem with coolant leeking, turned out to be a dud radiator cap, sometimes pays to check the simple things first.
Thanks guys holden007 i would use the bleeder screw but it has not got one but i,m changing the thermostat next week on my day of got told to use a coke bottle with the bottom cut out & to just keep the water in there until it takes no more but does any one know if i can get a thermostat housing with a bleeder screw in it for my series 1 motor & where
Thanks nopatcla but the cap was checked at natrad & it was fine had radiator checked & it was fine to after all the air was out had no more problems so thanks heaps for the replys still going to change the thermostat anyway
Sounds like a plan. At least on the S2 motor the thermostat is easily accessable. Fun thing to do when you've got the old thermostat out is to drop it in a mug of boiling water, if the bugger doesn't open then you know it's faulty.Originally Posted by bandit0014
Beau Duke: Man, I'm never gonna get outta this car again. I'm gonna live in it, I'm gonna eat in it and I'm gonna make sweet love to it!
Luke Duke: You mean you're gonna make sweet love IN it.
Beau Duke: Oh no, I'm gonna have sex with it.
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yeah i know pandaman but mines a series 1 so i have to take of the throttle body off just to get to it & change it
hows that fun???? its like watchin grass grow heheheOriginally Posted by pandaman
if your trying to get air out the easyst way would be to jack the car up at the front as high as it will go.(when cold) start it and let it warm up to operating temp,have the heater on hot.
leave the cap off when you do this to confirm that there was air in there and also so you know if you need to top it up.
2 other things use stands and make sure its in park with the hand brake on.
Stato on the inside, berlina on the out side,5ltr under the bonnet,stockies all round...........that thing has to be a sleeper
MY RIDES
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Originally Posted by bandit0014
Oh didnt know that, hope it all works out. I still suggest running the heater, I did that and 2 days later, I unscrewed the bleeding screw and no air came out.![]()
well guys took it to all the mechanics on the central coast even radiator places & they done all there test to it & they still could,nt figure it out the other day i was driving it and all of a sudden the oil light came on & alot of steam from under the bonnet popped the bonnet open to find top radiator hose split all the way from radiator to the block so got it towed home ripped the heads of now i,m getting the heads fully serviced for $270 vrs kit for $160 so all up its costing me $868.35 that consists of new water pump,oxygen sensor,coolant sensor,mat sensor,oil pump kit,penrite hpr15 oil,& filter,timing cover gasket kit,sump gasket,oil pressure switch,recon power steering pump,radiator fully serviced so is that a good price as a couple of mechanics wanted to do the job for $2,500
there was one thing i could,nt work out was it only started to over heat when i did an oil change i used penrite hpr30 with 500mls of that lucas additive so maybe the oil was to thick has any one else had this problem