Today I pulled my LSD to bits because the torque required to turn one raised wheel with the other on the ground is way less than 68Nm. I'm going to go to holden this week to get the replacement parts to tighten it up again. What I wanted to know is what are the cone clutches like when they're brand new? I was expecting mine to look really tired but they seem ok (still got a reasonable amount of the spiral tread on them). Is there another component that can cause the LSD to be loose? The thrust springs seem ok but I'll replace them too. Will holden be able to fix me up with stiffer than standard springs inorder to get it really tight or does anyone know of another method (such as using thicker or multiple thrust washers)? Are the springs and cones the only things I need to replace to get it tight again (I'm not going to replace any bearings)? What about shims?
Cheers guys.
depends on how much you want to pay...they are a good diff for a small period of time and then start to wear again.... $800 will get you a good KAAZ diff centre that bolts straight into the diff housing if that helps
I don't really want to spend too much on it, that's why I'm kinda doing it myself, especially if it's just going to wear out after a short time. I considered seam welding the cones to the diff cap and cover but it seems like such a shame to do that to an LSD (would make for quite a strong lockie though). It's a track car by the way, thats why I want it so tight (got a single spinner on at the moment and can't get any traction in 2nd gear).
ohhhh in that case buy a spool for about $100 lol...... there is shims that can be used but like i said they dont last very long
my workmates got one in his vp so i asume so yes.... i asked about a price and he got his for $780
You will find that you don’t necessarily need to replace the actual cones. As the cones wear, they naturally have an increased clearance between the housing and the cone face. All you need to do is remove any surface glaze, and then re-shim the cones.
However, this will end up being a never ending loop of re shimming or replacing cones as the BW diff will not tolerate any more then a few thousand k's of abuse(or about 20 doughnuts), before the torque falls out of spec again. Either way, give it a go, will give the car a fresher feel.
Current Rides - The Daily: BA XR6 Turbo -The Scary One: TE/G Gemini Supercharged 3.8L V6
The Cruiser: 1966 XR Fairmont V8 - On Two Wheels: Honda XR250R - The Wifeie: VZ Wagon
- buying a minispool...... $88 off ebay
- fitting minispool and keeping left parts to you can go back to normal.... $20 (diff oil)
- smoking both rear wheels EVERY time knowing you're not wearing the LSD out... priceless![]()
LOL... agreed.Originally Posted by VP_Luke
I steer away from the cheaper mini spools however. The splien cut/mould can sometimes be a little off, resulting in axel damage. Its ok when u run standard size axels that are cheap to replace, but not real handy for custom $$$ axels.
Romac mini spools are around $150-180 last i checked, top quality.
Current Rides - The Daily: BA XR6 Turbo -The Scary One: TE/G Gemini Supercharged 3.8L V6
The Cruiser: 1966 XR Fairmont V8 - On Two Wheels: Honda XR250R - The Wifeie: VZ Wagon
Classic...Originally Posted by VP_Luke
I'm considering either that or welding the cones ($0). Before I go doing that though I might experiment with washers or coins to help the springs push the cones in tighter. Has anyone ever tried this?
I put a curved washer in it which was perfect size to cup the spring. Now it's so tight I can't turn one wheel by hand with the other on the ground. Can't wait to take it for a drive.
Before I do though, what sort of oil do I stick in the LSD? It doesn't say anything about it in my gregorys..
Go to your local appco, get some penzoil 80w-140 formulated for LSD centers. does anybody know where you can get the KAAZ LSD center in NZ