Higher rpm torque converter

[Full Spectrum]

after my 12 months warranty is up on my tranny I'm thinking soon of getting a shift kit and a RPM torque converter.
But can anyone tell me what a higher RPM one would do what do they actually do there not to cheap so what advantages do they bring?.

[xcop5l]

are u talking a bout a stall??
if so they basicly change the revs that the torque converter start producing drive eg: 2500 stall wont produce drive into the auto until around 2300 rpm and will be fully ingaged at about 2500 rpm
there great fun when doing skids

[Full Spectrum]

See I'm even lost on it's name.

So what happens when you take off it revs to 2500 rpm? And moves takes off??

[FadeToBlack]

It's got a little bit of power before the rated RPM and it will still move just not much, even if your foot is flat to the floor.

[Full Spectrum]

So it will feel more torque to the max torque rpm?.
So will it rev higher off the mark when taking off from a dead stop? like your revving it but your not?.

[sircruisealotVS]

the simplest explanation (while not entirely correct) is that a stallie is like a clutchless manual. because an auto trans doesnt have a clutch to disengage the transmission from the engine is uses a converter.
the converter allows the car to come to a complete stop whilst the engine can still run (ie, not stall).
if you were to try and rev the engine at a complete stop you would have to press harder on the brakes so it wouldnt move, because as you rev more torque is passed from the converter, throught the trans and onto your back wheels.
a high stall converter (or a stallie) raises the stall point so less torque is distributed to the wheels when reved at under the stall point (ie, a 2500rpm stallie) and thus the braking force is much less than it would be if you did this on a standard converter, allowing you to "stall up" the converter so when brake pressure is released and further rpm (acceleration) is applied a much higher amount of torque is passed onto the wheels.
all of this sudden torque (instead of gradual torque with a lower stall point converter) allows for very quick take offs (and burnouts,lol). the best stall point for a stallie is just before you max torque point, and thats why most high stalls are around the 2200-3000rpm mark (and even more for serious drag beasts).
hope that helps your understanding, it is all a bit confusing at first, but once you get your head around it, it makes alot of sence.

[Full Spectrum]

the simplest explanation (while not entirely correct) is that a stallie is like a clutchless manual. because an auto trans doesnt have a clutch to disengage the transmission from the engine is uses a converter.
the converter allows the car to come to a complete stop whilst the engine can still run (ie, not stall).
if you were to try and rev the engine at a complete stop you would have to press harder on the brakes so it wouldnt move, because as you rev more torque is passed from the converter, throught the trans and onto your back wheels.
a high stall converter (or a stallie) raises the stall point so less torque is distributed to the wheels when reved at under the stall point (ie, a 2500rpm stallie) and thus the braking force is much less than it would be if you did this on a standard converter, allowing you to "stall up" the converter so when brake pressure is released and further rpm (acceleration) is applied a much higher amount of torque is passed onto the wheels.
all of this sudden torque (instead of gradual torque with a lower stall point converter) allows for very quick take offs (and burnouts,lol). the best stall point for a stallie is just before you max torque point, and thats why most high stalls are around the 2200-3000rpm mark (and even more for serious drag beasts).
hope that helps your understanding, it is all a bit confusing at first, but once you get your head around it, it makes alot of sence.

Yes wonderful explanation thank you.
I like the sound of this.
So instead of a flat take off at around 900rpm it will burn like hell straight off the mark like a VN S1 on roids?. Good for drags yes So what is the recommended for a engine to maybe be replaced soon but only mods are 8 month old tranny new tailshaft (soon to ad LSD and Shift kit) CAI New throttle body Hiflo cat Redback straight through Exhaust.
I must admit to loving the take off power and mid range speed around 60-80 and also down lower, I'm not the type of bloke that will hit high speeds of 130+. Unless i get to the drags.
So if the max Torque on a VP is 293Nm @ say 3600 anything under that will almost carry that amount off the mark yes?. But over that will it act just the same as normal?. This sounds like a little 1psi turbo jumped into the car.

[FadeToBlack]

TRACX1 has a 7000rpm stall converter.

[xcop5l]

i have a 2500 stall in my hz and it feels like the auto is slipping untill it hits about 2000rpm then it has about half drive when it hits about 2500 it has full drive. when you punch it the wheels spin bad from standing still (no brakes)

[VNV6VENGEANCE]

Stall converters are built for drags so putting them in streeters is not usually recommended. Unless you spend all of your spare time challenging people to drags you don't really need one. Plus they are very pricey so if your talking bang for bucks not such a good idea.then again not to completly bag them, they are good for people who do drag alot, you can lay some massive burnouts by cranking the high rpm at gear shift and you don't need a tacho to check revs...

[xcop5l]

they are also a great help when used with a cam.if you run a big cam your power range changes and a stall is best to compinsate with this.

[Boonz]

ive got a 2800rpm stall in my ute, i drive it on the street like any normal person when im licensed....you drive it sensibly it behaves almost lie a stock converter but u feed it some herbs and it will smoke up the rears with no hesitation in first or second
if your gonna do it make sure the lock up revs match your peak torque of your cam to make the most of it

[Full Spectrum]

Now it's starting to sound complicated

So drive normal car goes normal.
Go hard and if you have bad grip it will spin hard. Good grip still some wheel spin.
So is it like having a manual pop the clutch?

I really don't like burnout i have maybe done a 3-4 sec one in my car about 5 time over 12 months not really into them but would love some chirping in the rears again since i got these great tyres it wont chirp anymore dropping back to 1st.
But if I'm going @ 40 and drop it hard will it snap and spin cause then it maybe wouldn't be for me as i love good grip when kicking down and overtaking?.

[Dan355]

The higher the stall the less chance of chirpin into the next gear for an auto anyway. Basically your increasing the rpm meaning you can hit max power/ torque sooner. This in mind by the time your ready to change to second/third (Auto) your way past the "sweet" point to get a chirp happnin at which the motor produces max power/torque.

[1991_Vn2nV]

So what sorta prices are stallies? For like 2500 stall converters?

[VNV6VENGEANCE]

u'd be lookin at $500 to $800 for supply and install. not cheap and not really worth it if u want control over gear shifts buy a tacho so u can watch your rpm then shift it yourself. a much better way to learn how to use your beast...

[Full Spectrum]

The higher the stall the less chance of chirpin into the next gear for an auto anyway. Basically your increasing the rpm meaning you can hit max power/ torque sooner. This in mind by the time your ready to change to second/third (Auto) your way past the "sweet" point to get a chirp happnin at which the motor produces max power/torque.

So instead of changing @ 5100rpm you can change earlier with the torque coming in earlier at lower RPM so it's more in the right range instead of wasting drive?.
How much time would one of these cut off your 0-100 times anyway.

u'd be lookin at $500 to $800 for supply and install. not cheap and not really worth it if u want control over gear shifts buy a tacho so u can watch your rpm then shift it yourself. a much better way to learn how to use your beast...

So mated with 3.45/3.89 LSD and shift kit 2500rpm stall would be a handy weapon?.
Would the tacho on the level 2 dash be fine as i hate them big tacho's on the dash's

[1991_Vn2nV]

Dont forget a 3.73 ratio Thats my pick of the bunch

[sircruisealotVS]

i noticed a converter on ebay for $80 (brand new)....

[VNV6VENGEANCE]

How much time would one of these cut off your 0-100 times anyway.

So mated with 3.45/3.89 LSD and shift kit 2500rpm stall would be a handy weapon?.
Would the tacho on the level 2 dash be fine as i hate them big tacho's on the dash's

1/4 mile times would not be improved from stock, they would just look better as the rpm that you would have been using normally without the stall would not be optimised and properly used on take off. easy explanation. when you didn't have the stall converter you would have to rev the engine to around 2500rpm, hope that you've got the right rpm under your foot then accelerate. some time would be lost in human error.

mated with an lsd/minispool, shift kit a 2500rpm would be good for gettin the initial jump on your opponent in a drag no doubt about it.

Tacho be fine for what? all i meant is with a tacho you can watch your revs yourself instead of using a stall converter.

[immortality]

the simplest way to describe a high stall converter is to compare it to the old manual setup. it's basically like revving the engine higher before letting the clutch out. example, the standard converter stalls about 1800rpm, so it's like a clutch thats engaged but slips until it hits 1800rpm, fitting the high stall, lets say 2500rpm you let the clutch out much later and it doesn't lock up untill 2500rpm. the down side of a high stall is that you loose some engine responce down low in the rev range unless you give it a bootfull when you take off and therefor you will loose some fuel economy cause when your cruizing and the converter hasn't reached it's stall point some of the power produced by the engine is lost in converter slippage which brings me to the other problem with high stall converters which is the extra heat they create, when the converter slips it created a lot of heat which is a sure fire way to an early transmition failure so a bigger/better trans cooler will be needed. high stall converters are good for drag racing but not really required untill you start fitting much bigger cams with lots of duration which don't make lots of grunt untill higher in the rev range and therefor a high stall is required otherwise the engine will bogg of the line etc your probably better of fitting a better cam first etc

edit: not exactly sure about the torque curve of the VP V6 but i know the VN s1 V6 makes about 90% of available torque from 1200rpm so there would be no need to fit a high stall for an engine like this

[Full Spectrum]

Dont forget a 3.73 ratio Thats my pick of the bunch

Cool i didn't know they had that all the diff places said only said 2 ratios. that seem like a perfect one for not revving it's knocker off on the freeway.

1/4 mile times would not be improved from stock, they would just look better as the rpm that you would have been using normally without the stall would not be optimised and properly used on take off. easy explanation. when you didn't have the stall converter you would have to rev the engine to around 2500rpm, hope that you've got the right rpm under your foot then accelerate. some time would be lost in human error.

mated with an lsd/minispool, shift kit a 2500rpm would be good for gettin the initial jump on your opponent in a drag no doubt about it.

Tacho be fine for what? all i meant is with a tacho you can watch your revs yourself instead of using a stall converter.

So when at the drags instead of braking and revving it up you only need to floor it?. And it's got good launch.
But are you saying just shift with your rpm gauge and don't bother with the stall learn your cars area and save some money.

the simplest way to describe a high stall converter is to compare it to the old manual setup. it's basically like revving the engine higher before letting the clutch out. example, the standard converter stalls about 1800rpm, so it's like a clutch thats engaged but slips until it hits 1800rpm, fitting the high stall, lets say 2500rpm you let the clutch out much later and it doesn't lock up untill 2500rpm. the down side of a high stall is that you loose some engine responce down low in the rev range unless you give it a bootfull when you take off and therefor you will loose some fuel economy cause when your cruizing and the converter hasn't reached it's stall point some of the power produced by the engine is lost in converter slippage which brings me to the other problem with high stall converters which is the extra heat they create, when the converter slips it created a lot of heat which is a sure fire way to an early transmition failure so a bigger/better trans cooler will be needed. high stall converters are good for drag racing but not really required untill you start fitting much bigger cams with lots of duration which don't make lots of grunt untill higher in the rev range and therefor a high stall is required otherwise the engine will bogg of the line etc your probably better of fitting a better cam first etc

edit: not exactly sure about the torque curve of the VP V6 but i know the VN s1 V6 makes about 90% of available torque from 1200rpm so there would be no need to fit a high stall for an engine like this

So it's like holding the clutch on take off revving it up then popping it for a high rpm take off instead of auto launch which drops down. This might not be good for me as i havent even been to the drags with this car or any car. I'm looking to one night but now maybe the LSD shift kit is all i need?.

I'm not sure myself where the VP makes it's torque from, But i do know they are close but i think VN's are better off the mark and VP's better as the speed increases?.