VP Immobilizer swap over from another VP

[MyVPIsFasterThanYourVP]

What do i need to change so i can have the remote immobilizer that works from my spare VP swapped into my VP I drive. Please dont send me on the Holden Dealer to Cobra Dealer shuffle, I would like to do it myself. The immobilizer in the car I drive has been disabled at the passenger door pillar switch, and when I bought the car, it had no key for the pillar switch or remote switches. I bought another VP and it has no key for the pillar switch either, but a working remote that unlocks the doors, flashes the blinkers, and most importantly of all, disables the engine and flashes the led on the dash. I want this on the car i drive, not the spare parts car in the back yard! Please, I have the usual constraints, i.e. no money to waste, and a limited tool collection, but i do have a cordless drill to remove the rivets! I have no problem with electrical systems, indeed computers for that matter! What I am hoping, is to not re-invent the wheel, and hear from someone who has done this,
Colin

[Cheap6]

The theft deterrent system uses an electronic control module, the BCM (body control module) to switch on and off the ignition voltage input to the ECM (engine computer). The door pillar switch operates in parallel, simply bypassing the BCM, so you would need another such switch with a key to get it to work. To swap the switches, drill out the rivets on the door switch and the antitheft plate behind the passenger kick panel, above the ECM. The rivets are very hard, intentionally, for obvious reasons. Drilling the heads off and punching the rivet mandrel through is the correct technique to avoid enlarging the holes. There is a single connector for the switch.

The BCM is a black box located under the dash, above the glovebox with two connectors, 12 and 10 pin. Swapping the BCM and using the matching remote(s) will give you a functioning theft deterrent system..

[MyVPIsFasterThanYourVP]

Am going to make this my weekend project, I will let you know how it all goes, but, from your brilliant description, i cant forsee any problems...
Colin

[MyVPIsFasterThanYourVP]

is the module i want to change the small black unit with one connector going to the bottom of this unit. It is situated to the passenger pillar side of the gap accessible when i remove the glovebox, not above, all i see is the heater blower. there are two screws holding it to a bracket with two screws holding the bracket to the car. the module i see looks to be about the size of a pack of cigarettes,
Colin

[MyVPIsFasterThanYourVP]

can I change the bcm without removing the dash, help please! how do i get to it?

[Cheap6]

Sorry. I obviously didn't give you enough information. It can be done without removing the dash completely. I am assuming from your last post that you figured out that the TDM is located above the LH vent duct, above the ventilation fan, above the glovebox. It is secured to a bracket which is attached to the car body by two self tapping screws into the plastic case of the TDM. The screws face down and forwards. To access them:

With the glovebox out and the left hand vent assembly removed.

Remove the M6, 10mm head bolt holding the lower part of the dash onto the body bracket. The bolt is located behind the LH vent, on the dash lower edge. This will allow the bottom of the dash to be flexed forward and give more room.

Remove the duct between the LHS vent and the ventilation unit. There is a screw holding the RHS (inside) end of the duct to the ventilation unit. To access this requires removing the large trim panel that goes around the radio/vent controls. Loosening the console makes it easier; there are two screws with plastic extensions which lift the console up to contact the large trim panel accessed by removing PRNDL surround. Backing them off will allow the front of the console to drop away. The left hand vent duct also pushes into, and is held in place by, another duct running vertically down to connect to the left hand rear vent in the console.

With the left hand vent duct out of the way, bend the bracket for the TDM down and rearward, and remove the two self tapping screws now accessable. This will be the difficult part . An 'S' shaped screwdriver makes it easier but it can be done with a short #2 Philips head.

[MyVPIsFasterThanYourVP]

I was all set to post a comprehensive guide to removing the TDM, and there it is exactly correct in the previous post!
1> remove the rear of the center console,
2> then the upper center console section (fascia, radio, air/heater panel), to remove the short up air duct that feeds the rear console vent
3> The passenger dash end cap (duct assembly) to be removed to allow the air duct that runs from the center to the end dash vent to be removed.
4> Then with the glovebox freed exactly as described in the previous post,
5> it is possible to bend and twist the TDM, to finally break it free, this only being acceptable when there is a 5 year old daughter and 4 year old son competing for daylight hours! otherwise with amazing dexterity it may be possible to remove the two small screws in situ. Also with the end of the dash removed, it is then time to drill out the rivet securing the bracket that covers the access hole to the passenger door mounted immobilizer override switch, once this switch has also had the rivets drilled it can be removed. (note these rivets are hardened for obvious security reasons.) This isnt mandatory, but I have no keys for the switch, and one that is off and one that is on!
6> do it all in reverse!

[MyVPIsFasterThanYourVP]

now it all works, but i have not got the flashing blinkers when i switch the alarm on and off. They flashed in the car i took it all out from. And i have swapped the TDM the ECU and someother box that looked important! Does anyone know what controls that part of the immobilizer?