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Changing VP engine mounts

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I have been told horror stories, by two mechanics now, of the lack of space to access the bolts for the engine mounts in my 92 VP s2 3.8 exec with air. I have been told just to get to the mounts, I have to remove the A/C pump and the bolts for the A/C pump are next to impossible to get out with air tools, let alone for a 'Kmart socket set backyarder' like me! I have the mechanical skill, but I must admit I am mostly motivated by quotes of $300 for labour, for a job that used to be:
1/ jack up engine under the sump.
2/ remove mounts.
3/ fit new mounts.
4/ drop motor.
Has anyone here actually changed their own VP mounts, that can tell it like it is please? Real stories from experience would be preferred to 'Penthouse' advice!
 
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KB3800

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ok , yes it is a bit tricky but it can be done.
first loosen off the mounts tothe subframe and to the engine brackets, dont take off the brackets. support the engine from above, either with a straddle bar on the inner guards or an engine hoist to take the weight off the mounts.
remove the crossframe, then remove the old mounts. heres where it gets awkward, put the new passenger side mount on, then the drivers side loosely so there is movement to align it with the holes in the subframe. then offer up the subframe, with a bit of wiggling you will be able to get it all lined up then its just a matter of lowering the engine and tightening all the bolts. hope this was of some help to you
regards Kev
 

05 VZ SS

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Why remove the cross frame? Isn't that harder? I changed mine bu just jacking up by using 2 jacks...One on the transmission /engine, and one on the oil sump with a bit of timber....
 

VNV6VENGEANCE

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ok kb3800 no that is not first. remove your extractors from the engine so when u lift the engine u don't bend ur exhaust causing rattling noises. Then do the lifting. Will make it so much easier with the exhaust not connected. Lifting the trans is another good idea but not all mechs will do it as it can snap trans mounts in the process. I attempted mine an it was a success. You do not need to remove a/c to get to it, thats a head f*ck. My mate got his done for 150 and he supplied the mounts. Look around u can get it done heaps cheap.
 
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you reckon I could just drop the exhaust at the front bolt on point (in front of the cat), or do I really have to unbolt the exhaust manifold from the engine? Are you saying that If I raise the engine too far I can tear the transmission mount? Did you change your mounts with hand tools? Thankyou guys for the assistance, it is REALLY appreciated. Oh and $150 for the labour would be fine with me from the sounds of things, just drive in with the new mounts, and drive out with a vibration free car (both mounts are sitting on the safety bolts now). Has anyone tried jamming some rubber under the safety bolts as a temporary fix?
Colin
 

KB3800

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okies, am not advising you lift the donk high enough to affect the exhaust, remember thats one reason the subframe is removed, the other being if you leave it in, and try to lower the mounts onto it, the splayed position of the lower mount studs prevents them entering the holes in the subframe. im just advising as best i can the way it worked for me, not looking for an argument. best of luck with it wchichever way works for you
regards
 

defa

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ya don't use a torque wrench for leverage. they might have a long handle on them but ya really should use a breaker bar. although i have heard prenty of people say they use theres as a breaker bar and have no trouble. but still ya shouldn't do it..
it does seem a bit silly that bya would have to take the AC off too.
 
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