I have been told horror stories, by two mechanics now, of the lack of space to access the bolts for the engine mounts in my 92 VP s2 3.8 exec with air. I have been told just to get to the mounts, I have to remove the A/C pump and the bolts for the A/C pump are next to impossible to get out with air tools, let alone for a 'Kmart socket set backyarder' like me! I have the mechanical skill, but I must admit I am mostly motivated by quotes of $300 for labour, for a job that used to be:
1/ jack up engine under the sump.
2/ remove mounts.
3/ fit new mounts.
4/ drop motor.
Has anyone here actually changed their own VP mounts, that can tell it like it is please? Real stories from experience would be preferred to 'Penthouse' advice!
Last edited by MyVPIsFasterThanYourVP; 26-11-2006 at 10:02 PM. Reason: Does editing result in a bump?
Really? Has no-one here ever changed their VP's engine mounts?
ive heard its not that easy
mine need doing but the engine will be comming out and getting a new bottom end when that happens
id also like to know how hard it is.. i assume get a big enough torque wrench (or breaker bar) onto it and anything will loosten
ok , yes it is a bit tricky but it can be done.
first loosen off the mounts tothe subframe and to the engine brackets, dont take off the brackets. support the engine from above, either with a straddle bar on the inner guards or an engine hoist to take the weight off the mounts.
remove the crossframe, then remove the old mounts. heres where it gets awkward, put the new passenger side mount on, then the drivers side loosely so there is movement to align it with the holes in the subframe. then offer up the subframe, with a bit of wiggling you will be able to get it all lined up then its just a matter of lowering the engine and tightening all the bolts. hope this was of some help to you
regards Kev
woo hoo, thank you! will let you know how I go....
Why remove the cross frame? Isn't that harder? I changed mine bu just jacking up by using 2 jacks...One on the transmission /engine, and one on the oil sump with a bit of timber....
ok kb3800 no that is not first. remove your extractors from the engine so when u lift the engine u don't bend ur exhaust causing rattling noises. Then do the lifting. Will make it so much easier with the exhaust not connected. Lifting the trans is another good idea but not all mechs will do it as it can snap trans mounts in the process. I attempted mine an it was a success. You do not need to remove a/c to get to it, thats a head f*ck. My mate got his done for 150 and he supplied the mounts. Look around u can get it done heaps cheap.
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you reckon I could just drop the exhaust at the front bolt on point (in front of the cat), or do I really have to unbolt the exhaust manifold from the engine? Are you saying that If I raise the engine too far I can tear the transmission mount? Did you change your mounts with hand tools? Thankyou guys for the assistance, it is REALLY appreciated. Oh and $150 for the labour would be fine with me from the sounds of things, just drive in with the new mounts, and drive out with a vibration free car (both mounts are sitting on the safety bolts now). Has anyone tried jamming some rubber under the safety bolts as a temporary fix?
Colin
okies, am not advising you lift the donk high enough to affect the exhaust, remember thats one reason the subframe is removed, the other being if you leave it in, and try to lower the mounts onto it, the splayed position of the lower mount studs prevents them entering the holes in the subframe. im just advising as best i can the way it worked for me, not looking for an argument. best of luck with it wchichever way works for you
regards
ya don't use a torque wrench for leverage. they might have a long handle on them but ya really should use a breaker bar. although i have heard prenty of people say they use theres as a breaker bar and have no trouble. but still ya shouldn't do it..
it does seem a bit silly that bya would have to take the AC off too.
wtf remove exhaust n crossmember n shit? theres no need. you dont need to jack the motor up much. I never did and I never had problems.
Yes the AC comes off. You'll see why when you pull it out. Yes its a pain in the ass but cant be avoided.
I did mine in the front yard of my mates place with a pissy trolley jack on the sump and that was all.
Undo the bolts holding mounts to crossmember, raise motor, remove a/c compressor, take brackets off the motor, fit new mounts to them, re-install the brackets to the motor and then lower motor.
Just use ring spanners with a big pipe over the end for the a/c bolts :P
Its not hard just awkward cause of the a/c.
$166 each mount for a VP, really?
fifty bucks each from supercrap ...when you do it take the bonnet off ( 2 bolts and it slides out from the brackets ), lift the engine to take the weight and undo the lefthand side first.... air con compressor etc has to come out and be pushed to one side undo k frame to mount 2 nuts and take off alloy bracket from engine and unbolt old mount and bolt ( 2 nuts) the mount securely to the alloy bracket on that side but dont put the bolts back on the alloy bracket to engine and leave the mount studs to k frame nut loose too, lift the engine higher (might be a idea to take the throttle body off so it doesnt hit the firewall )and do the right hand side and bolt everything up but leave loose the bottom mount studs to k frame nuts to move everything around to get the bolts back in the aluminium bracket to engine on the lefthand side and put the air con compressor etcback on and lower...too easy about 2-3 hours work if you have the right tools(winch chain etc)
Last edited by markovr; 23-02-2007 at 12:04 AM.
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......if you want to check it out......Anyway make sure you rubbish a ford daily ....I am a 4DH8RZ Club lifetime member .................new members joining everyday
definitly is possible, the A/C pump is a b*stard but i did mine with a jack and block of wood under the sump. remove the ac pump and hang to the side,lift engine sligly using jack, undo engine mounting bracket from engine and subframe, remove and replace engine mount and the nput it all back together. mine is a VS and i found it easier to remove the power steering on the drivers side to get to the bolts for the engine bracket on that side
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i have done the a/c side no probs(was pretty simple) its the drivers im having probs with some reason i just cant get the clearance.
p.s i paid 104 for the 2 from QAH
Last edited by the executive; 22-05-2008 at 06:19 PM.
why dig a 2 year old thread
what i did was i dropped the motor in with the drivers side mount attached, then put the other mount bolted up to the a/c bracket, drop the motor in, then bolt up the a/c bracket, its the easiest way to do it, but v6 mounts are a pain in the panties i hate them with a passion... DIE
lol
2 days to fit mounts always.. stupid imo... when i can drop a v8 in and have it bolted up within a few mins... you can tell that the vn was never designed for the bewick... (its true, bewick was last min drop in), vn shoulda come wit a RB30 IMO :P anywho
thats my pains with them
you dont need to remove the ac compressor, just undo the bolts and slide it to the left, then you have enough room to get to the bolts.... drivers side is quite easy though,.
yeah, either way its still a pain in the ass... :P