Cold weld - Turbo oil line return!

[PaRaDoX]

hey, with my turbo project drawing closer to completion, im getting all the bits ive had for ages installed,

now my welder told me he dosnt want to weld my sump, its too thin and with a mig he could burn holes in it...

soo im considering a Cold weld adheasive, ive seen some stuff in bunnings, like 2 compounds you mix to gether, holds up to 500deg or something.. (was like $20)

i know of JB weld aswell how much does that cost???

anyone know the real temp rating and would this work for this application (obviously id need to prep the surface)

yeah any insight????

[Not_An_Abba_Fan]

A mig can weld materials that a pretty thin, but if he won't mig it, oxy weld it. Any sort of liquid metal type products rely on the metal being super clean, with a sump you still will have oil residue in the metal. I wouldn't have confidence in it although it may work very well.

[PaRaDoX]

yeah but nothing a bit of a sand with some coarse sand paper cant fix???

i dont know anyone to oxy it, and i have to change the oil at the same time, because im flushing it due to the metal shavings and its over due for a change

[Not_An_Abba_Fan]

Can you take the sump off to weld it? I would be inclined to do that.

[PaRaDoX]

you have to remove the engine for that im %99 sure, i can just strip it back to bare metal round where ill apply the cold weld, the homemadeturbo.com boys use this stuff all the time and swear by it for the sump...

[vt1538]

If he is too scared to mig weld it how about tig welding.
I personally wouldnt try & cut corners & use that liquid metal type crap. A hole in the sump can completely destroy your engine. Do it once & do it right.

[AirStrike]

you have to remove the engine for that im %99 sure, i can just strip it back to bare metal round where ill apply the cold weld, the homemadeturbo.com boys use this stuff all the time and swear by it for the sump...

Nope. Just pull the K frame.

[PaRaDoX]

tig welding you think????

he has a tig welder *thinks*

[Not_An_Abba_Fan]

If he was any sort of welder he would have suggested that if he had a tig. Not bagging the guy but maybe he doesn't want the responsibility if something goes bad.

[vt1538]

tig welding you think????

he has a tig welder *thinks*

We have nade quite a few custom sumps here & we have always used the tig. You can do it with a mig quite easily if you use the smaller wire, but a tig gives a much better finish without the tendency to get pin holes at the stop/start of the weld.

[PaRaDoX]

If he was any sort of welder he would have suggested that if he had a tig. Not bagging the guy but maybe he doesn't want the responsibility if something goes bad.

well he never said he couldnt do it, he just warned me about welding the sump while its on the car... i mean cmon its one thing to do your own car, another to do it to someone elses when you dont do it every day...

hes done a good job on all the piping so far

i didnt get long to speak to him yesterday... im going back either tonight or tommorrow so ill talk then

[cracker]

i think i have a better idea on the passanger side of the block near the started motor in the side of the engine just above the sump right, there is a plug this plug can be pulled out with, and u have a hole about the size of ur pinky finger im sure this could be used as an oil return and u dont have to touch the sump.

[m62vpute]

If he has a mig and a tig i am sure he would be able to do the job, with the mig all you have to do is run 0.9 mm wire (around $30 a roll) and turn your amps down

Also while you are there you should get him to make up them flanges that you were asking about the other day

[cruzncommo]

off car + tig weld will be the G O

[burnz]

use a t.i.g. welder
u can actualy weld two coke cans together without blowing a hole in them

[defa]

i have the motor out of my car at the moment and i know what little plug you are talking about and it is too small. it needs to be at least 10mm inside for the oil to flow though

[Matt_vp]

pulling the k-frame and then taking the sump off would be a better idea. Then make a plate like i said in the other thread and weld your connector to that, drill a hole in the sump and line the 2 holes up, then weld it on using the thicker plate to take most of the heat and wash the weld pool down onto the thin sump metal. with the plate being bigger than the small connector that u want welded on, it will spead the heat out more. i used a small old as welder that ran like **** to weld up a sump last week.

[immortality]

just outa curiosity, what pressure is the oil under that goes throught the turbo and back into the sump? the reason i ask is cause if you have a high presurre bleed straight into the sump and into the sump oil it can airate the oil in the sump and also splash a lot of oil back up into the crank which would increase the crank windage looses (hp loss)

[PaRaDoX]

oil return lines are atleast 2x bigger than feed lines to stop this i believe i dont think the return line has that much pressure on it and oil is pretty thick, its not like water (wont splash as easy)

[benzor]

oil return lines are atleast 2x bigger than feed lines to stop this i believe i dont think the return line has that much pressure on it and oil is pretty thick, its not like water (wont splash as easy)

You ever drained oil out of a car thats just come off the track?

Yep, thin as water.

[AirStrike]

You ever drained oil out of a car thats just come off the track?

Yep, thin as water.

Correct!! Paradox you are forgetting that as it heats, the viscosity of oil increases.
Personally mate I would stop with all this backyard bull**** that is only going to cause more problems. Drop the K frame and pull the sump..........do it right, do it once.

[Not_An_Abba_Fan]

Don't you mean the viscosity decreases?

[vt1538]

The other reason to take the sump off is so you can test it properly. Small holes may not be evident until the engine gets hot & by then it could be too late. (Hot oil around a turbo is not pretty)
Have you thought about running the return oil through a high flow oil cooler?The extra heat of the turbo can add a few degrees to your oil temp.

[PaRaDoX]

The other reason to take the sump off is so you can test it properly. Small holes may not be evident until the engine gets hot & by then it could be too late. (Hot oil around a turbo is not pretty)
Have you thought about running the return oil through a high flow oil cooler?The extra heat of the turbo can add a few degrees to your oil temp.

thats definantly something to consider....

[Furious_8]

The sump is pritty thick but any trained welder should not have a problem as the fitting can take most of the heat that wy the sump cant melt.

Oil temp is not a big proplem unless you are doing track days