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Thread: battery

  1. #1
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    pr0n is offline It's A Me ' MARIO '
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    im thinking of installing a battery in my boot to power my new subs ive got. because with just my kenwood 12" 1000w the lights dim so bad.

    how hard is it to wire up a battery in the boot so it charges when the car runs?

    or could i get one of them portable battery jump starter packs and just get a car inverter so its on charge all the time and run the subs and amp off that?

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    oas well as one of those capacitors for large stereo systems
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    A capacitor will work well if wired correctly.
    The deciding factor will be the length and guage of the cable between the capacitor and the amplifier, and the ability of the battery to provide enough current for the system.
    A capacitor will only provide a small amount if high current power which is intended to reduce peak load on the alternator, and the longer the cable between the capacitor, the more of this power is lost before it gets to the amp.
    Also, if the cable thickness from the battery to the capacitor, or even directly to the amp is not adequate, it will starve the power, like a fat person with a stomach band.
    If you are planning on a battery in the boot, you will need to consider a few things.
    1 - dual battery isolator. Having 2 batteries hooked up to the alternator will overload it and reduce its life, and isolator will switch charge between the 2 batteries and also let you run the boot one empty without losing power from the main battery. This will still reduce the life of the altrnator, but less so.

    2 - the type of battery. A normal battery is usally filled with a corrosive acid, which vents through the holes in the caps. blocking these will make the battery dangerous, letting these vent into the boot or cabin can create toxic fumes and eat out your paint/upholstery. Upgrading to a dry cell, or gel cell battery is the best option here, but expect to spend around $500 for a good dry cell battery. A cheaper option is to buy a battery box. these will enclose the battery and stop any fumes and leakage and are cheap, but also ugly.

    If you want the best delivery then i would suggest:
    A good quality dry or Gel cell battery in the front.
    Upgrade your alternator to one with a higher load rating.
    use only 4 or 2 guage cable of good quality for the entire length of cable from battery to amplifier.
    Do your research and buy a high efficiency amplifer.
    Minimise the length of wire you need.
    If desired, get a nice well known 1.5F capacitor and mount it as close to the amp as practical.

    Doing all this will give you the best possible power to your system.
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    caps do **** all, just get a good battery. also how does charging two batteries reduce the life of the alternator?? it would be working the same as it was with a single battery.

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    Quote Originally Posted by vn6pwr View Post
    caps do **** all, just get a good battery. also how does charging two batteries reduce the life of the alternator?? it would be working the same as it was with a single battery.
    Caps do F-all if your electrical system cant supply continuous current in the first place as it only stores burst charge, it doesnt supply power it cant get in the first place.

    The alternator is regulated by a switch which stops it from having to generate power all the time, having a second battery means its charging MORE and MORE OFTEN which wears it out faster, or reduces its ability to create electrical current over time.
    Dont like my driving? Get off the sidewalk!

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