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Thread: Head Gaskets

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    Smile Head Gaskets

    Hey I have a S1 vn motor that i am going to put into my car, i was just wondering how hard is it to pull the motor down and do head gaskets, cause i am going to do the valley cover and put timing chain, alternator, starter, harmonic balancer, all of that.

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    if the engines out of the car, its pretty easy...

    i ripped the heads off a engine outta a car and it took 30 mins from a complete engine

    ripped the heads off my engine in the car and it took 3 hours to remove heads, and about 5 to put everything back together properly

    if your going stock spec, ACL make a kit called the VRS kit (Valve Regrind set)
    it includes valve stem seals, monotorque headgaskets, inlet valley seals, inlet manifold seals, thermostat seal, PCV seal, exhust gaskets, rocker cover seals... costs $110

    its also worth purchasing some crow cam SINGLE (they will fit a S1) heavy duty valve springs $60, you need a valvespring compressor for this, but mine cost me $25 off ebay,

    when replacing valve springs
    1.make sure hte valve can move freely and not hit anything..
    2.before applying compressor bash on the spring holder plate with a hammer till it stops making heaps of noise
    3.compress spring (should happen easily)
    4. remove vavle spring and replace

    few things to remember when replacing headgaskets
    1. use a torque wrench and the correct settings
    2. should use new head bolts
    3. clean the block and head surface
    4. use the correct order when removing/repalcing headbolts so you dont warp the heads
    5. drain the coolant before removing heads (oil should be fine)

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    Quote Originally Posted by PaRaDoX616 View Post
    if the engines out of the car, its pretty easy...

    i ripped the heads off a engine outta a car and it took 30 mins from a complete engine

    ripped the heads off my engine in the car and it took 3 hours to remove heads, and about 5 to put everything back together properly

    if your going stock spec, ACL make a kit called the VRS kit (Valve Regrind set)
    it includes valve stem seals, monotorque headgaskets, inlet valley seals, inlet manifold seals, thermostat seal, PCV seal, exhust gaskets, rocker cover seals... costs $110

    its also worth purchasing some crow cam SINGLE (they will fit a S1) heavy duty valve springs $60, you need a valvespring compressor for this, but mine cost me $25 off ebay,

    when replacing valve springs
    1.make sure hte valve can move freely and not hit anything..
    2.before applying compressor bash on the spring holder plate with a hammer till it stops making heaps of noise
    3.compress spring (should happen easily)
    4. remove vavle spring and replace

    few things to remember when replacing headgaskets
    1. use a torque wrench and the correct settings
    2. should use new head bolts
    3. clean the block and head surface
    4. use the correct order when removing/repalcing headbolts so you dont warp the heads
    5. drain the coolant before removing heads (oil should be fine)
    nice one Paradox. just to add to that, invest in a thread tap so that you ca nclean the threads in the block also for the head bolts, it will give a more accurate/even torque figure accross all the bolts when fitting the new head gaskets. those monotorque gaskets are good. how'z yours coming along Paradox.
    Last edited by immortality; 09-03-2007 at 12:43 PM. Reason: spelling
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    Doing the head gaskets should it make the car run alot better and have more power.

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    hehe, overpriced!

    yeah my heads are back on now.... compressions back to normal and i used ACL race series this time.. btw looked into it, ACL state that the monotorque AND race series headgaskets DONT require retorquing at all... only copper series do (thats what i ordered but acl stuffed up)

    mines actually sitting out on the street, turbo fitted and waiting for the 560cc injectors to arrive,

    if you seriously want your engine to run better and last longer, go for hte VRS kit and do it all while its outta the car...

    valve stem seals are a pain in the ass to do with the heads on the car.. and they do fail in the 200,000-300,000km period, also valve springs get spongy..

    to put it in perspective... i ran a 16.3, 1/4mile pass... installed the VRS kit + valve springs and ran 15.7 thats 1/2 a second increase!!!! it ran 100x better... its worth it

    also worth looking into engine mounts, mine were dangerous... they had cracks thru %90 of em and bent pins with fluid leaking from them... and ran rough... cars soo much smoother to drive now.. just easier to do them when u fit engine than spend 2 days ripping your accessories / manifolds off to replace them and they last a good 15 years

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    Thanx for everybodys input on the subject it really helps is there anything else i could do that wont cost to much to get my car running real good and have more balls. cause my old engine had alot of KMz but it use to win alot of drags and people with same mods still lost and i got a whole boot design subs amp capacitor all of that i want to get photos but this computer is **** but i will try to get some on here to show all you guy/girls.

    Bz Kn33z

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    I've got a head gasket blown on a VP Berlina...what sort of price should i expect when getting it fixed?

    If it isn't worth the worry, what's the best way to dispose of the car whilst getting the most coin back?

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