What sealant to use on VN Series 1 - Inlet Manifold

[Ozkiwi]

Hi Guys (and Gals if there are any), I am in the process of replacing the head gaskets on my VN series 1 Toyotodore due to a leaking inlet manifold (that was suspected of being a head gasket by my mechanic).

I'm a tad confused as to what to use on the Inlet Manifold gaskets. The Gregory's Manual says:- Apply RTV 732 sealant to each end of the rubber valley gaskets and ensure that they are positioned firmly against the cylinder heads and the cylinder block.

My Mechanic says to use Permatex No:4 Non-Hardening sealant on the inlet gaskets. I can't find any Permatex No:4 but everyone has Permatex No:3.

On the Permatex website it says No:3 is Non hardening. http://www.permatex.com/products/aut..._Sealant_a.htm

I have read through all the posts on the subject found in this forum and I also
checked in the How To section.. But so far I can't find any easy answers...

Back in the old days when I used to rebuild engines (mainly Cleavelands & Winsors, yuk), we used to put a dab of silicone on each corner of the inlet valley gaskets at the front and rear points where the inlet manifold meets the head. The rest we put on dry.

Is this what they mean here?

Can anyone help me out here and tell me the right way to do this job so it won't leak anymore?

The gasket kit I got is a AA Gaskets - Permaseal - VRS set. I got this set from Bursons, because the ACL - VRS sets not containing the rocker cover bolt rubbers and mine were all shot. Something to remember if anyone needs them for a Series 1 VN.

Cheers

Steve aka Ozkiwi

[Pub247]

I use aviation sealant on most of my gaskets and we use it at work aswell. It is my opiion that it will be sutiable for doing the gaskets. As for the end of the gasket Q yes you are right just a bit at the end of each rubber where it meets the heads. rubber gaskets dont need sealant aswell. This is similar to when doing a sump gasket where the rubber front and rear seals (on some cars my reference is a 202) meets the cork gasket we at work put a bit on the end tabs where they meet

[Ozkiwi]

Thanks for your help here, V6's are new to me, gimme a 186 - 202 any day, they were fun to play with.. No computer crap to put up with either...

Steve

[greenfoam]

I use aviation sealant on most of my gaskets and we use it at work aswell. It is my opiion that it will be sutiable for doing the gaskets. As for the end of the gasket Q yes you are right just a bit at the end of each rubber where it meets the heads. rubber gaskets dont need sealant aswell. This is similar to when doing a sump gasket where the rubber front and rear seals (on some cars my reference is a 202) meets the cork gasket we at work put a bit on the end tabs where they meet

We use heaps of aviation sealant at work, pretty good stuff when your playing with parts that see alot of oil

[Pub247]

We use heaps of aviation sealant at work, pretty good stuff when your playing with parts that see alot of oil

yep loctite no.3 basically held my 202 together even with a couple of sump bolts missing it never leaked.

[goose2]

just did mine used rtv blue handls heat and fuel well just a tip make sure you put the vac tube at the back of the t/b on if not it will cause it to run lean and burn your piston tops

[goose2]

just another tip DONT TOUCH the grey button on the kick down cable(if yours is auto)drongo here did andits a real bi#ch to re tune just right

[Cheap6]

ozkiwi, if it's not too late, your Cleveland/Windsor experience applies with sealant application; a dab at each corner between the block and head, place the end seals and apply another dab before placing the manifold gaskets. The 732 is what GM recommends but I use Permatex Ultra blue.

(http://www.permatex.com/products/aut...sket_Maker.htm).

The only other place I use sealant is around the coolant ports on the manifold. Almost certainly there will be (light) corrosion around them, so I use a very thin smear, cleaned up by dragging a razor blade across to leave just sufficient sealant to fill the corrosion pits. The rubber seals on the manifold gasket take care of the rest.

Also, the moulds on the (genuine) end seals must be gettin old as the last ones I bought had significant amount of casting flash which needs to be trimmed off for a good seal.

The manifold retaining bolts should have sealant applied to the threads too, if some of them are open to coolant or oil (I think that some are). I use Holden's Headstud Sealant for that.

[Ozkiwi]

I have completed the job and only had one minor problem.. I forgot to tighten up the power steering pump hose (the steel one) and when I started the car, power steering fluid went everywhere..

I also probably went further than most would have when doing this job, I also replaced the O rings in the two steel heater hoses where they connect to the Inlet Manifold and the Water Pump housing as well as the two O rings on the Bleed (coolant) pipe (black steel) that goes between each side of the Inlet Manifold and then to the Overflow bottle. They didn't come in the VRS set and I for one think they should...

I also picked up a Series II coil pack (complete) form the wreckers for $30.00 and then had to replace the leads as well.

So next I degreased the engine bay (at the local car wash centre) and this always causes the oil light to come on.. I know what it is, it's water in the Oil Pressure switch wiring...

So other than that, a job well done, even if I do say so myself..

A tip for anyone else doing this job.

There is a clearer indication and picture of where to add the sealant in the Gregory's Manual (No:249) in the Supplement Section - Part 2 (page 281) at the back of the book.

Thanks again...

Steve

[azkwazere]

Was it a hard job mate?

How long did it take you? I might have to do mine, may just be inlet manifold but im just curious, mechanics want like $800 and stuff.... is it do-able by me? (not a complete noob )

aZk.

[Ozkiwi]

nah, it's not that hard to do as long as you read all the posts here and follow what's in the Gregory's Manual...

As for how long it takes, that depends on whether you need to get the heads and or the inlet manifold machined, how much you want to spend on the entire job and the condition of the rest of your engine..

If you are going to take the heads off and they have been on there a while, 100,000klms or more, then get the heads fully serviced. That's machined, pressure tested, valves reseated, new seals, etc..

Don't forget the radiator as well, flush it well, maybe replace the thermostat and o ring, check all the rubber hoses and replace any that need it.

I'd also take the inlet manifold with the heads (if you do that much) and get it cleaned, checked and machined if it needs it as well.

Good luck and have fun..

Steve

[vp(decvin)]

yere i need to do this but i know **** all about cars.

[RockyVX]

just make sure you use a sensor safe product.