Hey guys. I have to replace my drivers side door coz some push-biker who was absoultely flying hit my door when my father opened it to get out of my VP. It was a really hard hit, and the door is beyond saving - not bad for a push biker eh. Anywayz the biker fled the scene (lucky I wasn't there at the time) and now I gotta get my VP fixed.
To get to the point, my VP is an Executive V6. Its never had power windows, but now is a good time to put it in since I want and need it. Therefore I'm jus wandering what is involved in installing a new (aka good second-hand) door with power windows onto my VP.
I tried reading the thread and was at a loss for a clear understanding, so hopefully someone can simply and correctly explain wats involved in doing so in laymen/simple terms. Thanks guys.
you would need the loom, switches and of course the power windows to put in your other doors.
and while youre at it get some power mirrors too...might as well imo
I need to replace mine too. My fault was doing something inside car with drivers door open and it rolled back and hit garage wall so knocked it out of alignment a bit so it needs to be lifted a bit to close door. Know of a local wreckers that has a door hopefully it wont be hard to connect to elec mirror back, the after market central locking and the locking mechanism. Hopefully its just the door out of alignment so the new one will fit easily and close correctly.
You can get door-pin pullers to remove the door pins, but they're expensive. I personally soak the hinges in RP7 or WD40 or EZ-FREEZ for 10-15 minutes, then grab onto the top of the hinge flanges with a chunky set of multigrips and hammer the bastards out. Then you unplug the door, and away it comes.
Good luck finding a perfect colour-matched door, I couldn't find one for my last VP, even from cars with exactly the same paint code. It's a bitch to find the right colour fade
For power windows, I THINK you will need a Body Control Module from a car with power windows, and the associated loom + wiring + switches for them to function properly. Personally, I'd stick with the manual windows:
1) you can operate them with a dead battery
2) you can operate them with the car off
3) they're lighter
4) they tend not to break as much as power window regulators
But that's just me, if you want to do it, it's possible... but not easy.
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The 1972 HQ Kingswood
The 1989 VN Turbo Rally Project
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expensive? got mine for 25 bucks on ebay
Mate, I'm tighter than two coats of paint. I didn't even spend $20 on my cold air intake
But yeah, you CAN get them... but for the likely number of times you're ever to use them... I've done the multigrip + hammer thing on perhaps eight or nine doors now. Works quite well.
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The 1972 HQ Kingswood
The 1989 VN Turbo Rally Project
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Just an update on this, I am trying to remove my doors off my VQ. The pins are flared at one end (to stop the ping going through t he hinge). What is the best way to get around this? I have got the pin sliding but the flare on't let the pin out.
Thanks in advance
50LTRv8
50LTRv8
They go the other way. That is the reason for the special tool, so you can access the pins from between the car body and the door shell, from the correct end of the pin. What Morton is talking about is grabbing the flared end of the pin(s) with the multi-grips and striking the multi-grips with the hammer to pull the pins out, as distinct from pushing them out with the special tool.