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Thread: Removing VP tail shatf to renew rubbers/uni and centre bearing

  1. #1
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    Default Removing VP tail shatf to renew rubbers/uni and centre bearing

    Gday
    im new here just thought i would post this.
    Its a sunday and I have nothing to do,my VP has a horrid vibration under load starting as you take off up a slope mostly.

    Done the mounts, I am told it is the uni/centre bearing or tailshaft rubbers.
    I figure ill do them all if i am going to the trouble of pulling the tailshaft/s off.

    anyone done this?

    I can see a few bolts but what is the hardest part?

    Do i need speacialised tools?

    or can i DIY.

    Cheers

  2. #2
    matty88's Avatar
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    You can DIY,

    17mm I think, 4 bolts at the diff end, place the gear lever in Park, this locks the shaft allowing you to undo the bolts. They can be a prick to get off though, but they will do so. Watch for the gearbox fluid leaking out afterwards, can get messy.

    Cheers

    Matty88

  3. #3
    Not_An_Abba_Fan's Avatar
    Not_An_Abba_Fan is offline Exhaust Guru
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    You can do it yourself, the main thing is to make sure you mark each piece of the drive shaft as you dismantle it. It has to go back together in precisely the same position or it will vibrate. Mark the position of the two halves when you undo the 6 bolts holding them together. Mark the position of the CV joint on the spline when you pull that off. It has to come off to replace the centre bearing and mount. Also mark the position where the tail shaft bolted to the diff as well. The only special tool you will need is a pair of circlip pliers to get the circlip off to remove the CV joint. It can be done with screw drivers but it is easier with the circlip pliers. The retainer that holds the centre bearing is a press fit, although it isn't tight, I have never used a press to get it off or on, just a punch and a hammer. Getting the new one on is just a matter of hitting it gently and evenly all the way around it so it doesn't distort.
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  4. #4
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    Also check the gearbox mount, that will cause vibrations once it breaks. The shaft in my VP has been rotated around to the wrong spot, dunno if Holden stuffed it up or it's been out before but since it's IRS and the shaft doesn't move much it's OK sort of (OK as in hasn't broken yet) and I can't be bothered changing it until I put the manual in :P

  5. #5
    lukas pukas's Avatar
    lukas pukas is offline Bukake, better than cream
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    could also be your stall converter, because vp's dont have very good trans cooling they can warp under load or while towing. my vp's shudders due to that but im not replacing it until i get a new trans or maybe manual conversion

  6. #6
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    yeah thanks for the replies fellas

    It already has a vibration so im wondering if it on properly in the first place and I just might be marking it and doubling the mistake?

    Bought a cv bearing assembly and 2 uni's today, guess the best I can do is keep it back on the way it is and once I have it off give it a good check.

    The yolk thingy that comes out of the gearbox has a tiny bit of movement in it (a bit les than a mm), im guessing it it slowly copping the wear and tear of the tailshaft vibration on uphill takeoff all the time, if I dont fix it soo it will wreck it.

    I have change the rear engine mount, which i think is really a gearbox mount.

    I have roughly checked everything underneath and can't feel much that would cause such a shudder, i was thinking the tailshaft is bent or maybe as said above put on wrong, or at worst somthing like the torque converter (hope not).

    cheers

  7. #7
    dijm8's Avatar
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    i had the vibration also under heavy accelleration, its the center bearing in the tailshaft, its only about 30 min job if u knw wot ur doin, n also dnt 4get to mark the bits u take off...

  8. #8
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    dont know if this could cause it but also check the rear trailing arms on the dif as the rubber bushes wear like shi& (if its a live axel of course)

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