I want good suspension for my project car, what are good struts and adjustable strut tops too get? and whats the go with coilovers? so far i have adjustable heavy duty swaybar, strut brace, link pin upgrade kit, rear adjustable sway bar, adjustable radius rod, adjustable panhard rod. what else will i need as in bushes, etc and everything MUST be adjustable.
cheers for any info
bump..................
Why must everything be adjustable? Will you actually be adjusting the suspension?
bump... again -_-
For the street side of things, i would suggest go with a setup that is matched, like one of the whiteline packs that seem to get good feedback. There no point spending heaps of cash on all the good bits if they arnt matched with each other.
If your serious about track work, it would be best to ask people who race them.
This guy is prolly the best around race wise:
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If you hit google you could (will) find another forum or two to ask for some more info about him.
I think you need to refine what you want to use it for. Theres no setup that will be great on a race track and road as well as deal with dirt roads without big changes ie springs,shocks,bars.
Fe2 is a nice ride hight.
if your going off roading anytime soon....
bodyroll is NOT your friend @ 140km/h round a corner down a big hill
i had FE 2 all round and it had massive mean with about 0.3G's
wtf now you have a VN SS? lol pick a god dam car
go ajustable panhard rod.. some stiffer springs, ive got some monroe GT gas rear shocks for sale if ur intrested to tap short springs
overall get a camber kit for the front...
your aim should be to make the car handel as good on the road as on the track.. i noticed going to IRS,(now people bag it) but it grips a HELL of a lot better round corners under power and adds a bit more stability to cornering
Did the Calais have LSD though man? I would put those factors more to LSD than IRS.
I dont think fe2 *height* is the problem. Realistically fe2 is a much better part of the camber curve than something like superlows. Generally its not so much the lowering that makes a car handle better, its the stiffer springs. Much lower than fe2 messes with the roll angles and stuff like that also, inducing *more* body roll.
On a race track its different as you can set rediculous static camber.
It's handy to have the option of being able to dial in more positive caster on a track though, because if you can reduce your static camber a bit, you increase the level at which you can brake in a straight line before the fronts lock up. Then, of course, with more positive caster, you can turn in harder, and you increase your camber on the loaded wheel as you turn. Shame VN/VPs have almost no castor from factory... and you don't really have the flexibility to add a whole lot with adjustable strut tops. Bastards![]()
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The 1972 HQ Kingswood
The 1989 VN Turbo Rally Project
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hehe, thanx for the feedback guys. I absolutely HATE bodyroll, sideways in a commodore is something ive always been a bit scared of because of how much bodyroll there is lol
How do you measure the adjustments you make?
Hey I’m not sure about track use (probably want to go much better) but just for a basic street set up I had a combo of King Super lows (front) with KYB’s and Kings Ultra Low rear with Monroe GT Shocks (Ultras a bit too low when at high speeds hitting bumps) but it seemed to like the hight if it got a little sideways (would straighten up nice and smoth)
I also upgraded to adjustable rear panhard rod, nolothane bushes in the front sway bar, and links. All others were fine so didnt bother changing.
It handled very well (for a live axel open wheeler VP exec) with almost no body roll but that was just on the street and the occasional hills cruise. So I would imagine it would not suit track use??
Defiantly would also recommend adjustable strut mounts and LSD which I never got around to doing...
Ive spoken to a few people who have gone from shocks like gt gas (which is what i have also btw) to konis/bilsteins and they have said its really worth the price difference.
I think the biggest thing you have to remember is that *everything* has to be in good condition for it to work well. I think most people here would be surprised how well a stock vn with fe2 will handle if everything is in good condition.