Handbrake adjustment

[IvegotaCommy]

What is the best method for adjusting the handbrake on a VN wagon? Had a look at the book and I think their method is dumb. They set the shoes using a calipher, which might work OK in the factory but makes no allowance for wear at all.

[dufus]

I just adjusted the cable nuts on the adjuster connected to the handbrake until the rear wheels wouldn't move with the hand brake engaged, and would move freely with it disengaged. My handbrake works really well now

[r_i_d_a_h]

is this the reason why most VN-VS commodores roll a bit forward/backwards once the handbrake is engaged and in Park?

[VNexecutive]

adjusting the nuts just near the center muffler/exhaust (well in that area) is the best way to go.. just screw the bolts slowly, checking how many clicks your handbrake takes to get tight while your doing it. should be around 5 clicks before its tight

EDIT: the bolt to adjust the hadbrake is right next to the cat. i did mine today.

[Not_An_Abba_Fan]

The correct way to adjust the handbrake is to back the cable off until it is loose, then adjust the shoes inside the rotos through the hole in the side next to the wheel studs. Adjust it up until the wheel stops, then back off two clicks. Then adjust the cable until you have 4-5 clicks on the ratchet.

[azzfox]

The correct way to adjust the handbrake is to back the cable off until it is loose, then adjust the shoes inside the rotos through the hole in the side next to the wheel studs. Adjust it up until the wheel stops, then back off two clicks. Then adjust the cable until you have 4-5 clicks on the ratchet.

iv always thought that you needed to take the rotors off to adjust the shoes so have always just adjusted at the lever will investigate further next time it needs adjusting..

[Not_An_Abba_Fan]

There is a hole in the rotor that lines up with the hole in the axle, if they are fitted correctly.

[Lost_Pete]

You need to adjust both the shoes and the cable to get the best handbrake action. Particularly if you use the car in skidpan or motorkhana events. You need the shoes balanced so each wheel grabs at about the same time (hence the shoe adjustment), plus you need the brakes to grab with minimal handbrake lever movement (hence cable adjustment).

HOWEVER be careful not to over adjust it as I have found the mechanism can "wind up" and leave the brake partially on.

[iRiot]

grab two 10mm or 12mm spanners i think get under you car and tighten one nut then tighten the other its **** easy just behind the gearbox we do it a work all the time

[Not_An_Abba_Fan]

That would be just a cable adjustment. To do it properly, as I and TurboXS have said, you need to adjust the shoes as well.

[Cheap6]

That would be just a cable adjustment. To do it properly, as I and TurboXS have said, you need to adjust the shoes as well.

Absolutely!

Just adjusting the cable with the 13mm nuts will work as long as the shoe adjustment is in the ballpark. If it is not, at some point the shoes will be torn off the backing plate - I have seen this a number of times.

I normally set the shoe adjustment up by feel - a light drag with a wheel nut finger tight on the disc to ensure that it is square to the shoes and with the cable backed off.

I would suggest that 5 clicks on the handbrake lever is too tight though. I find about 7-8 clicks is better. To check that the adjustment is correct, stall the car up in gear (auto.) with the park brake on. If the car doesn't move, it's good. You should also be able to turn the rear wheels easily with the p'brake disengaged.

[hharry]

The correct way to adjust the handbrake is to back the cable off until it is loose, then adjust the shoes inside the rotos through the hole in the side next to the wheel studs. Adjust it up until the wheel stops, then back off two clicks. Then adjust the cable until you have 4-5 clicks on the ratchet.

Hi,
what correct type and size of tool is required for the drum shoe adjustments ? i'm about to do mine, and would be good to know the correct tool to use ?

hex bolt/nut ?
allen key ?
phillips head screw driver ?
something else ?

I've just replaced the front and rear stock Holden brake disk rotors ( that easily warped on 3 separate occasions ) with the new DBA kangaroo paw type, with Bendix pads, but i didn't pay attention to the handbrake shoe adjustment mechanism and which tool is required for the job, when i had the rear disk rotors off.

[hharry]

You need to adjust both the shoes and the cable to get the best handbrake action. Particularly if you use the car in skidpan or motorkhana events. You need the shoes balanced so each wheel grabs at about the same time (hence the shoe adjustment), plus you need the brakes to grab with minimal handbrake lever movement (hence cable adjustment).

HOWEVER be careful not to over adjust it as I have found the mechanism can "wind up" and leave the brake partially on.

Is there a way to stop the handbrake shoe adjustment mechanism from winding itself up ?

[Not_An_Abba_Fan]

On a Commodore it is a star wheel adjuster that you turn with a screw driver. It locks against the spring that holds the shoes so it would be unusual for them to wind up. Fords have a self adjusting mechanism that will do it if you adjust them too far, but I haven't seen a Commodore do it.

[Cheap6]

Is there a way to stop the handbrake shoe adjustment mechanism from winding itself up ?

Yep - adjust the shoes properly with the cable backed off and don't overtighten the cable.

[Lost_Pete]

Is there a way to stop the handbrake shoe adjustment mechanism from winding itself up ?

Just adjust them to the factory specification.

I'm not sure why it happens. If I adjust them right up and use it in a Motorkhana the number of clicks reduces by 2 or 3 clicks during the event. I need to get the handbrake on when the car is rolling backwards to help loosen it off. I suspect it has something to do with the way the shoes "float". After a bit of "normal" use it sometimes fixes itself.