supercharger what would be needed

[georgeonboost]

hi guys, was crusing around on ebay and came across this

3.8 Super Charger t VN, VP, VR V6 Engines free postage - eBay, Other Performance Parts, Turbo, Performance Parts, Cars, Bikes, Boats. (end time 13-Dec-07 21:47:03 AEDST)

just wondering what i would need to do to my VP V6 in order to put this on and run lets say, 10psi boost? much help would be appreciated

-George

[dufus]

There was a discussion about this supercharger on another forum. Apparently they have to be modified some how because there are clearance issues or something like that. Ill try and dig the thread up for you tomorrow.

[georgeonboost]

that would be sweet as man...cheers!

-George

[Cheap6]

That's a US S/C from a Series 1 L67. It's an Eaton M62. It was widely available in many US vehicles from 1992 to 1995.

It's not a straight bolt on. Well, the manifold and S/C are but there is more to it than that. There is another thread in the VR-VS section (American GM Supercharged) which covers some of the changes necessary to get it to fit. Briefly:

A new harmonic balancer with the S/C drive provision. The pistons are heavier on the factory S/C engines and a factory (US) S/C balancer will need to be rebalanced to suit a non S/C bottom end. There is more than one type of balancer too - you would have to figure out which US model was equivalent to a VP.

Engine management will need to be changed to suit +ve manifold pressure and a 2-bar MAP sensor will be necessary. There is also a S/C bypass valve (the item on the LHS of the S/C inlet) which would have to be controlled somehow.

The S/C inlet will be very close to the firewall.

The cooling system will require changes as the t'stat housing is at the rear of the manifold which makes the S/C inlet elbow difficult and will require a coolant bypass pipe similar to the early VN V6 or VS S/C. The heater pipes are also different but may be similar to VN S1.

There are two types of these S/C; 1992-1993 (200HP) and 1994-1995 (225HP). The early type is less efficient than the later type and has a smaller pulley for more boost to compensate. It is a common swap to use the early pulley on the later S/C to up the boost. This S/C appears to be the later type.

Common problems with this S/C are worn bearings and there is a plastic coupler between the drive pulley and the S/C rotors which can fail.

I am not sure if the price is good either, as it is posssible to purchase complete cars with the L67 in the US for less than that, if you have a contact in the US. (S/C condition unknown. Maybe best in a US state that uses road salt?) I wouldn't pay what is being asked.

The engine accessories, alternator, power steering pump are moved on the US models so unless you want to fabricate the brackets, you also need them from a US model. "Just make an elbow and move the alternator." - I don't think so. Power steering hoses would also be required to suit the new pump location. Those from a VS may work. The oil filter location is slightly different on US models too and the Commodore location may interfere with the power steering pump.

There are a few forums around dedicated to the US models fitted with the L67 and often the question comes up over swapping this type of S/C onto a non S/C car. This is essentially what you would be doing but without the benefit of cheap and readily available parts. The general consensus is that it is not worth the effort, but it has been done a few times. I think that the swap is still worth considering but only with all the parts from the donor car.

[Cheap6]

This is what I mean about the price being too high for what is offered:

Bonneville Club :: View topic - Ln3 to l67

US$130 for a complete engine. ~A$850 would surely cover freight and a balancer plus you get everything. OK, you need someone you can trust in the US but... It's almost worth a holiday over there to bring the parts back. The only issue remains the clearance to the firewall.

[PaRaDoX]

george, its alot of work man, keep the vp as a daily and start a project man, its on gas already etc

the little things will **** you such as moving the alternator,

your much better off going a SC14 man, been done heaps of times with fairly good results

a CRS SC14 kit will set you back $2000-2500 done properly, intercooled and 10psi, talk to stocky or luke, if your serious about doing it you know ill be there to help you

[georgeonboost]

yea...that ebay charger probly isnt the best way to do it. looks too much like a head ***. i might just keep the vp as a daily. could put that $2000 towards an s14 or sumthing ay.

-George

[jet_pilot]

have you thought about the vs 3.8 s/c i dont no if its possible but an idea i would also like to find out about for when im 21 dam vic law's wont let me have forced induction

[Cheap6]

Swapping the complete S2 (VS) L67 and trans. would certainly be possible but it would probably be cheaper to buy a S/C VS Calais.

As it stands, being just the S/C and the LIM, that E-bay charger is definitely not the best way to do it. That will be why it is being sold and why there were no bids at the price being asked. Using all the US bits may be a different story.

The airfare from the East coast of Aust. (Melbourne, Sydney, Brisbane) to Seattle is $1500-2500.... Combined parts finding trip and holiday?

If it's on gas already, that's half the engine management side solved.

[m62vpute]

It can be done and it is no where near as big a job as what it has been made out to be

I have done this on 2 different cars now the ek and just last week the vp ute

I do know this person selling these chargers on ebay and i would not buy them from him

If you have some engineering skills and around 3 days you can have it done from start to finish

Also at the end of the day in my opinion they looks a million times neater than the crs kits and you can run 6 to 7 pound of boost with out needing an intercooler

[Cheap6]

Cool. I agree that it is much neater than the SC14, is a better S/C and allows access to the US performance solutions and is almost a straight bolt up, which is why I think it is still worth consideration. (I didn't think that I, at least, was making it out to be a big job though, only describing what is required to do it properly).

Got some more info. on how you went about it, whether you used all the US accessories, retained power steering etc.? (A) photo(s) would be great, particularly of the VP. It could be a popular mod if it can be made to work.