VN Engine Exchange

[crae]

Hey I am hopefully pulling my old blown engine out tomorow and replacing it with a exchange motor.

We are going to take the g/box out with the motor using a hoist. Do we have to dump the g/box oil? Whats the easiest way?

Also any other tips from ppl who have done it? Any items I should replace while the engine is out?

Also do I need any new gaskets?

Cheers

[vn calais manual]

youd be better of dumping it yes.. um remove your radiator for a bit more clearance.

auto or manaul?

[YMY-88U]

definantly dump the all the fluids before taking the engine out, will make it alot easier and lighter. with your new exchange engine, give it a good degrease making sure not to get it where water n stuff shouldnt be then give it a respray in a hi-temp silver spray, will make it look alot nicer IMO.

[crae]

its an auto

[Fu Manchu]

take the trans sump off and drain the fluid out.
I used to have an old oil cap as well that was wrapped in a heap of leccie tape that acted as a bung in the tail shaft. That is where a stack of oil will also come out even after you drain what you can from the gearbox.
If you are expecting it and prepare for a stack of oil to come out you will be laughing
I'd replace the engine mounts at the same time cause that is a crap job later on

[crae]

thanks

Just found out my exchange engine is a series 2 and not a series 1 what do I need. It look like the water pump hoses are different?

Cheers

[YMY-88U]

i think its just the top radiator hose that is different, also are the spark plug leads different between the two series??

[Gav1802]

just take your time anything your not sure on write down before you disconnect etc will help when putting exchange back in

[PaRaDoX]

its a pretty easy swap over took me less than a day from start to finish, but i will admit 2 days of swearing, kicking and screaming trying to line the engine mounts up (v6 mounts are a CRAP DESIGN)

Things to replace are, Rear main Seal, Sump Gasket and engine mounts, also fit a corvette servo (next time it snaps into 2nd you will thank me)

Holden Commodore Corvette Servo Upgrade Kit For V8 V6 - eBay Commodore, Holden, Car Parts, Cars, Bikes, Boats. (end time 11-Jan-08 18:09:55 AEDST)

purely because these are the most ANNOYING THINGS to do whilst the engines in the car, also take the sump off the new engine and clean it out, im sure it will have some gunk in it, if you love your engine you will do this :P

also if you can score your self a VN s1 inspection cover for the transmission, rather than the 10kg s2 one that bolts into the sump, you will thank your self when your starter chucks a spaz and you need to get the plate off and you have to drop your steering rack

your right draining the box will make it alot less messier as when the tail shaft comes out all the fluid will escape from the rear of the extension housing

rip the motor + trans out as one FOR SURE, nothing sucks more than unbolt a torque converter whilst in the car, then u have to be soo careful not to smack the torque wrench on anything when your putting it back in

ill do you a simple engine swap write up because im nice

step1: Hoses + Radiator + Battery + other annoying stuff
disconnect & remove radiator + thermo fan & all thermal hoses, remove washer bottles for more working room, and the battery terminals (both) also remove the transmission cooler lines, this could get messy soo prepare for it with rags under the car and one on standby, after the lines are removed get some clean bolts and put them in the hose and do the clamp up to prevent leaks, also remove the fuel lines from the fuel rail, all vaccume hoses etc, and undo airbox/air pipes & map sensor wiring + aircon wiring connected to the chassis

step2: Exhaust Removal
unbolt exhaust at either Y headers or Cat converter (my engine had a turbo so im not sure whats easiest N/A)

step3: Removing upper Wiring loom
disconnect the upper wiring loom at the ecu (few plugs that run to the drivers side too, then from inside leaver it through, they'res some clips you push and the whole gromit comes out nicely, proceed to pull the wires through the firewall, place ontop of motor, it will unclip from the relay box aswell

step4: Removal Chain
remove alternator + fan belt (some will say nah nah nah dont do this but it works) put alternator bolt back in with a chain + dshackle to the rear drivers side head (soo it goes diagonal accross the motor for balance)

step5: Power Steering
somehow drain the Power steering, this can get messy, prepare with rags under the car or old carpet worked for me, then undo the highpressure hose and the other hose so that the pump is no longer connected to the steering rack, plug up the rubber hose with a similar sized bolt, and do the clamp up put a plastic bag over the right pressure hose, loop it a few times with a rubber band or 2 so it wont leak

step6: lower wiring loom
this ones a bit tricky, it goes from the starter motor, around the front of the motor (in the sump groove, cut the zip ties) then it grounds the engine and goes to the relay box, i think it has a ground on the lower fuse box aswell im not %100 sure just look and undo everything, if you cant get it undone from the fuse box undo the starter wires and the engine ground(might have to do the ground as you lift the motor out) but for gods sake before you EVEN TOUCH THE STARTER, make sure the battery is in NO way connected. and have a beer

step 7: AIRCON (OPTIONAL)
if you have aircon (i didnt have the lines installed)
you dont want to go loosing your gas right? you can unbolt the a/c compressor from the motor and leave it in the bay or you can just vent it into atmopshere (run at this point, its not good for your health) note: taking the aircon lines off WILL vent the gas, they'res 3x 15 or 16mm bolts on the side, get a 4" bottle opener, proceed to the fridge, open a brew, return to the car and get on with step 8

step 8: dump some oil + make sure transmissions ready to come out
get under the car, support it properly, you need to undo the transcooler lines or cut the zipties to the chassis or how ever they're mounted, just look should be simple and undo sensors (they'res a few on the top of the oil pan on the passengers side and a speed sensor on the back) i unbolted the tail shaft uni join to the chassis to give me some more play and ease when removing, undo the 13mm bolt on the shifter and release it from the interior shifter, undo the 2x13mm transmission mount bolts

step 9: unbolting the engine
get under the front end again (still jacked up from transmission stuff) undo the 4x15mm bolts (i think anyway)

step 10: rippin' that sucka
take a step back, have a few more beers, position the crane over the car, i had to jack my car up to get the legs under for my crane (car was too low :P)

should start to look like this, except without the turbo , note my header tape got soaked in p/s fluid :P


SLOWLY jack the car up with 2 people, 1 person watching where its rising, and 1 person jacking, as you jack it high enough it should tilt 45deg to the sky on the front end this is perfect) jack untill the sump clears the rad support panel, pull the back forwards or car backwards while you mate lifts the trans at the rear to clear the car, and your done..


if your going from series 1 to series 2 you need a new radiator, over flow bottles and some heater hose for the heater tap also a 8 bolt flex plate + some new bolts (22nm torque for these + LOCTITE!!!! and 80nm + loctite on the 3 torque converter bolts) also the wiring loom is slightly diffrent from the VN/VP v6 just the lugs, i was still working on adapting it when i had to move ending up in my car being ruined

if theres anything i missed just ask!

[h0Ld3n`VN]

excellent write up this is gonna come in handy TNX man

[hakhawk]

spewin you havent got more pics, could make a good howto if there isnt one already

[PaRaDoX]

ive got a few pictures i can dig up, ive done it a few times and learnt the best way to do it

shoulda seen the speedy engine removal we did on lukes VP, rattle gun 3 blokes and some beer...

[h0Ld3n`VN]

hakhawk thats what i was finking, well we dont have that on the how to and it would be great if it was up there

[PaRaDoX]

ill write it up and maybe take some pictures explaining where the looms /bolts are still got the vn /kframe but no engine but i can circle things etc

[samuels]

its a pretty easy swap over took me less than a day from start to finish, but i will admit 2 days of swearing, kicking and screaming trying to line the engine mounts up (v6 mounts are a CRAP DESIGN)

Things to replace are, Rear main Seal, Sump Gasket and engine mounts, also fit a corvette servo (next time it snaps into 2nd you will thank me)

Holden Commodore Corvette Servo Upgrade Kit For V8 V6 - eBay Commodore, Holden, Car Parts, Cars, Bikes, Boats. (end time 11-Jan-08 18:09:55 AEDST)

purely because these are the most ANNOYING THINGS to do whilst the engines in the car, also take the sump off the new engine and clean it out, im sure it will have some gunk in it, if you love your engine you will do this :P

also if you can score your self a VN s1 inspection cover for the transmission, rather than the 10kg s2 one that bolts into the sump, you will thank your self when your starter chucks a spaz and you need to get the plate off and you have to drop your steering rack

your right draining the box will make it alot less messier as when the tail shaft comes out all the fluid will escape from the rear of the extension housing

rip the motor + trans out as one FOR SURE, nothing sucks more than unbolt a torque converter whilst in the car, then u have to be soo careful not to smack the torque wrench on anything when your putting it back in

ill do you a simple engine swap write up because im nice

step1: Hoses + Radiator + Battery + other annoying stuff
disconnect & remove radiator + thermo fan & all thermal hoses, remove washer bottles for more working room, and the battery terminals (both) also remove the transmission cooler lines, this could get messy soo prepare for it with rags under the car and one on standby, after the lines are removed get some clean bolts and put them in the hose and do the clamp up to prevent leaks, also remove the fuel lines from the fuel rail, all vaccume hoses etc, and undo airbox/air pipes & map sensor wiring + aircon wiring connected to the chassis

step2: Exhaust Removal
unbolt exhaust at either Y headers or Cat converter (my engine had a turbo so im not sure whats easiest N/A)

step3: Removing upper Wiring loom
disconnect the upper wiring loom at the ecu (few plugs that run to the drivers side too, then from inside leaver it through, they'res some clips you push and the whole gromit comes out nicely, proceed to pull the wires through the firewall, place ontop of motor, it will unclip from the relay box aswell

step4: Removal Chain
remove alternator + fan belt (some will say nah nah nah dont do this but it works) put alternator bolt back in with a chain + dshackle to the rear drivers side head (soo it goes diagonal accross the motor for balance)

step5: Power Steering
somehow drain the Power steering, this can get messy, prepare with rags under the car or old carpet worked for me, then undo the highpressure hose and the other hose so that the pump is no longer connected to the steering rack, plug up the rubber hose with a similar sized bolt, and do the clamp up put a plastic bag over the right pressure hose, loop it a few times with a rubber band or 2 so it wont leak

step6: lower wiring loom
this ones a bit tricky, it goes from the starter motor, around the front of the motor (in the sump groove, cut the zip ties) then it grounds the engine and goes to the relay box, i think it has a ground on the lower fuse box aswell im not %100 sure just look and undo everything, if you cant get it undone from the fuse box undo the starter wires and the engine ground(might have to do the ground as you lift the motor out) but for gods sake before you EVEN TOUCH THE STARTER, make sure the battery is in NO way connected. and have a beer

step 7: AIRCON (OPTIONAL)
if you have aircon (i didnt have the lines installed)
you dont want to go loosing your gas right? you can unbolt the a/c compressor from the motor and leave it in the bay or you can just vent it into atmopshere (run at this point, its not good for your health) note: taking the aircon lines off WILL vent the gas, they'res 3x 15 or 16mm bolts on the side, get a 4" bottle opener, proceed to the fridge, open a brew, return to the car and get on with step 8

step 8: dump some oil + make sure transmissions ready to come out
get under the car, support it properly, you need to undo the transcooler lines or cut the zipties to the chassis or how ever they're mounted, just look should be simple and undo sensors (they'res a few on the top of the oil pan on the passengers side and a speed sensor on the back) i unbolted the tail shaft uni join to the chassis to give me some more play and ease when removing, undo the 13mm bolt on the shifter and release it from the interior shifter, undo the 2x13mm transmission mount bolts

step 9: unbolting the engine
get under the front end again (still jacked up from transmission stuff) undo the 4x15mm bolts (i think anyway)

step 10: rippin' that sucka
take a step back, have a few more beers, position the crane over the car, i had to jack my car up to get the legs under for my crane (car was too low :P)

should start to look like this, except without the turbo , note my header tape got soaked in p/s fluid :P


SLOWLY jack the car up with 2 people, 1 person watching where its rising, and 1 person jacking, as you jack it high enough it should tilt 45deg to the sky on the front end this is perfect) jack untill the sump clears the rad support panel, pull the back forwards or car backwards while you mate lifts the trans at the rear to clear the car, and your done..


if your going from series 1 to series 2 you need a new radiator, over flow bottles and some heater hose for the heater tap also a 8 bolt flex plate + some new bolts (22nm torque for these + LOCTITE!!!! and 80nm + loctite on the 3 torque converter bolts) also the wiring loom is slightly diffrent from the VN/VP v6 just the lugs, i was still working on adapting it when i had to move ending up in my car being ruined

if theres anything i missed just ask!

not being smart or anything....4-5hrs old motor out,new one in all fluids put back into motor,freshly flushed radiator...coolant in

[Blown V6 Hatch]

I myself, find it easier to just remove the engine with a V6! Bellhousing bolts are easy to get to and convertor bolts are easy to get to aswell! Saves messing around pulling the auto out and draining fluids etc. etc. 2 days messing around getting the engine mount bolts in??? LOL Jeezus Paradox, should take about 5 minutes.......

[crae]

We just finished putting the new engine in!! All up about a 2 full days! We found just taking the engine out by itself much easier as well.

We did the rear crank seal and new oil sump gasket as well as a full degrease. Running like a dream !!

Only problem we ran into was lining the engine mounts apart from that verything went according to plan. Although when we test dove it the engine light came on Did an ecu test and got a code 44. Which turned out to be the o2 sensor. So we replaced that and reset the ecu and all seems to be good. Got a code 12 on the ecu.

Thanks for that help great post!!

[PaRaDoX]

no problem glad to help good on ya for doing the sump gasket and the rear main

glad to see everything went to plan tho

Tim, i dropped the motor in with all the manifolds bolted up bit less room to work around, ok soo it didnt take me 2 days, but it did take a while to get them in and it was a pain in the ass!

Samuels, you mean its a 4-5 hour job? id agree with that i did mine over the span of 2 days because i had other commitments when i swapped my s1 to s2