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Thread: new crank sensor still no run

  1. #1
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    Default new crank sensor still no run

    Hi, i have a series 1 vn v6 that runs for about 5 mins then stalls,
    i done the fault test thing on the scanning plug and got a code 41 out of it
    (41 being no crankshaft references pulses. ignition voltage <11 volts ect...
    according to somwere on the internet).

    So i replaced the crank angle sensor,crank seal and the harmonic balancer.
    I adjusted crank sensor accordingly 180$ later and i started it up just to find that it barely starts and idles for about 30 seconds and stalls and is still throwing code 41 even after a brand new sensor. it runs worse than before!

    Do you need to erase the code of it to run properly??? any help is good help.
    Cheers!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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    have you ever had the dfi module or coils replaced if not that may be problem or cas may not be aujusted properly, try dissconnecting the battery for a while and connecting it again, dissconect black first and reconect it last

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    m3taL's Avatar
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    sounds more like fuel too me... Mine had the same Symptoms throwing code 41. was found to be Fuel Pres reg and Fuelfilter. i also put a new fuel pump in at the same time Never played up with that problem again... also the Coolant temp sensor (2wire) can cause issues like this. does it seem to be running rich when idleing?

    Update:

    Also yes id do a full ECU Reset let it do its problems then check codes again.. i have found having 3 VNs that the EMC has a tendancy to throw u off the problems.

    And onthery is check the MAIN power feed at ur ECU for voltage when the car is running. Mine dropped to 11.2v and it caused all sorts of problems. $400 later for a auto elec to diagnose it was a caroded Main + wire to the ECU which is like also a main feed to the DFI or somthing. they traced a new wire in and presto 14.4 at the ecu and she run fine.... Poor earths, greasy enginebay can all cause small electrical problems.

    The fun a Joys of owning a commodore least they go harder when there running
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    I'd look at the fuel system too. If it starts each time after it stops it points to the fuel regulator. As the car can pump up fuel to get it started.

    It can also be the ECU, DFI or Coils.

    Swap the coils/DFI unit with a know good unit and see how you go.
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    i have put new dfi and vp coil packs on new fuel filter as well, to get it started i have to put the foot to the floor which you all will no shouldnt need to be with an efi car, while the ignition is on there is a clicking sound coming from engine bay, ill have alok at the fuel reg.
    Cheers thanks all

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    Have you got the leads on in the correct order? Very easy to mix up

    Not that it will be the issue (foot flat to floor) but can make the old V6 run a bit sick.

    Sounding like fuel reg/pump

    Is the pump making noise when you turn the ignition off?
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    pump sounds fine altho carnt run car long enough to hear it , leads are correct ill have a look at the fuel reg cheers.
    Last edited by anothervn; 15-03-2008 at 02:34 PM.

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    JD
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    my VP had this, the guy who owned it before replaced the CAS only to find out it was the fuel pump.
    We got rep back, yaaay!

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    wouldnt the fuel pump cause it not to run and if it did would run very crappy and not rev, thats how my mates vr run when it the f pump went. ???

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    JD
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    i guess it depends how far she's gone, my old VP's fuel pump went while i was driving it and wouldn't start again.
    We got rep back, yaaay!

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    Quote Originally Posted by anothervn View Post
    i have put new dfi and vp coil packs on new fuel filter as well, to get it started i have to put the foot to the floor which you all will no shouldnt need to be with an efi car, while the ignition is on there is a clicking sound coming from engine bay, ill have alok at the fuel reg.
    Cheers thanks all
    Sounds Very much like my problem i had. do a pressure reg and if thats not it i'd be lookin into a fuel pump.

    My Fuel pump was doing faulty stuff would work for 2-3 days then do this same thing your doing. if i held it flat too the floor it would start and run like crap then as soon as i drop the revs it would stall.
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    Can i bring up this thread again...ie car doesn't want to start once a week at least....
    spend around 2-3 mins trying to start the car, then it starts, then works fine...and no it's not the battery or alternator< --definitely not them....it's like trying to start on an empty tank of fuel, 5 mins or so and it starts but works fine for another week and then the same problem again....anyone had this problem with a VP, or could put me in the right direction...ie fuel pump etc please

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    i know this sounds silly, but did u remember to put the coil pack grounding strap back on? id be checking that to make sure its tight, if its loose you wont rev over 3000rpm really

    my old fuel pump died @ 12psi as i ran out of petrol lol

    i lol'd

    well mate this issue is one of every v6 floating around when i first got my v6 i had dead coils replaced ecu, coils and cas.. happened 2 years later from a timing issue. infact my car popped a code 41 after its last outting before i rewired ... not getting time to finish it before i was forced to move out of my current residence leading to a serious towing accident leading in the cars destruction...

    i never got the car going after a code41!!!! (its the code of death)

    if it were me id be taking off the harmonic balancer and checking the crank's keyway.. i had mine slip on my S1 motor causing a world of ****.. its why my car never ran properly, fixed it, boosted it but the damage was done, spun 3 bearings 4 days later,

    it was hard to start, but would rev...

    lol anyway
    its bound to be
    DFI/coils
    ECU
    Fuel pump
    or CAS

    now you say you've done cas and coils

    next step is to track down a spare ecu to test with, failing this a walbro GSS341 can be had on ebay for $110, its a small quiet and powerfull 500-600hp fuel pump, same flow as a bosch 040 and alot quieter, i have one sitting in my shed from my vn...

    either way, replace the cheap parts first and borrow parts to test...
    if you can get a fuel pressure gauge onto the fuel lines to see the psi the pumps putting out, that will tell u exactly how well the fuel systems working.. i took mine off but they're useful

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