Driver's door hard to close. Slamming pretty much necessary.. :(

[savage1987]

Any common causes for this? It's really starting to give me the ****s, plus becuase you have to shut the door so damn hard one of the two screws that holds the inside door handle in place has torn free.

Sam

[VN_Luke]

get some correct-size torx bits, and adjust the striker on the B pillar.

depending on how much of a perfectionist you are, it can take a few hours to get spot on

can also get some graphite powder and lube up the latching mechanism in the door for nice and smooth operation

[azkwazere]

check it has all its hinge pins too...

if you loose one it may fall out of alignment and then cause it to be hard to close...

All else fails... fiddle more with latching mech.

aZk.

[VN_Luke]

^^ valid point

from what I understand the hinge pins can also 'warp' (i.e. even if they're there, they might let the door still hang down) - is the door fouling anything when it's closing?

[slo_firo]

the pins snap but stay where they are allowing the door to move around.... are very hard to get out when this happens, my door now swings on the hinge pin removal tool as it snapped off while i was trying to get it out,

also if you have nice paint take the front gaurd off while messing with the pins or you may have some nasty scuffs (front doors only rears have better access)

[savage1987]

get some correct-size torx bits, and adjust the striker on the B pillar.

Got torx bits already, any more info on the striker? The door isn't out of alignment, it doesn't hang down noticeably and isn't sticking out or in too far from the back door either...

check it has all its hinge pins too...

if you loose one it may fall out of alignment and then cause it to be hard to close...

All else fails... fiddle more with latching mech.

aZk.

Think I'd have noticed if it didn't have all its hinge pins but ok... the door will locate properly, but only shuts to the first click until you really give it a shove. Just to clarify the problem a bit

from what I understand the hinge pins can also 'warp' (i.e. even if they're there, they might let the door still hang down) - is the door fouling anything when it's closing?

Nope.

the pins snap but stay where they are allowing the door to move around.... are very hard to get out when this happens, my door now swings on the hinge pin removal tool as it snapped off while i was trying to get it out,

also if you have nice paint take the front gaurd off while messing with the pins or you may have some nasty scuffs (front doors only rears have better access)

Maybe I'll just get brand new hinge pins, can you still get them? Might be worthwhile regardless of if this is the cause.. Rough price on new pins for all doors?? Checkstraps at the same time?

[slo_firo]

yea get em from holden only a couple of dollers each, the removal tool is about 20 i think, have to get that from a tool shop

with my pin broken it didnt look that far out of alainment but i could lift the door slightly, it was probably only sagging by a few mm but just enough so it was a pain to close (i had to open and close the door for my mrs lol...)

[VN_Luke]

Got torx bits already, any more info on the striker?

yep - loosen the torx screws a little bit (so they're still more or less tight) then slide the striker around to wherever it should be.

If it was my car (and the hinge pins were fine etc), I'd pull the striker towards the outside of the car by a few mm, then re-tighten the screws and see if door closes properly...

[lazza44]

I replaced the two hinge pins on mine and it got a little better for a few weeks then it was back to its old annoying self. Might try the striker.

[Dayvo]

Try the cheap easy options first like spraying the door mechanism with CRC or WD40. If this fails then mark around the striker plate with a lead pencil then remove bolts and striker plate . Close the door and check the gaps aroung the door to see if it has sagged.A good way to check is check the style lines with door shut .They are the pressings on the lower door where the bump strips go or the top of the door just above the door handle to see if it is flush .If all is ok ,refit the striker plate making sure to use the pencil marking to line it up . Just nip the screws up so they just hold the plate in place then close the door .The front door should just sit proud of the rear door,The reason for this is that it reduces wind noise.The reason for not doing the striker plate up tight is when you shut the door the plate will align itself . Next open the door and tighten the plate up a bit more. Close the door with the door handle held up to check where the striker hits the door and adjust to suit

[savage1987]

Good advice guys, thanks. Will get onto this as soon as I have some spare time in daylight!! I think the striker may be a winner, but might do the pins anyway. Mechanic at work said just replace the whole lot of the hinges and pins, but he's more of a ford man.. not sure if you even can replace the hinges in a VN?? Haven't looked properly yet.

Dayvo.. bump strips are long gone but I know the pressings you mean. Good tip. Also I didn't know the front should sit proud, thanks for pointing that out! I know it wouldn't be by much.

Sam

[slo_firo]

Good advice guys, thanks. Will get onto this as soon as I have some spare time in daylight!! I think the striker may be a winner, but might do the pins anyway. Mechanic at work said just replace the whole lot of the hinges and pins, but he's more of a ford man.. not sure if you even can replace the hinges in a VN?? Haven't looked properly yet.

Dayvo.. bump strips are long gone but I know the pressings you mean. Good tip. Also I didn't know the front should sit proud, thanks for pointing that out! I know it wouldn't be by much.

Sam

hinges are welded to the body and door so the hinge is the only part to fail in that department - unless you have rust issues

[Dayvo]

hinges are welded to the body and door so the hinge is the only part to fail in that department - unless you have rust issues

Thats right , they are welded on but sometimes when when the doors are aligned in production the welds crack . If you are going to replace the pins i posted a thread in the VL section which is basicly the same as the Vn VP

[Emackulation]

You can enter your car into the "Door Slammer" category!

[Tom_1569]

If you are going to replace the pins i posted a thread in the VL section which is basicly the same as the Vn VP

VN are different to VL, as I learnt caus i described the way to remove a VN pin in the VL thread, so you can go find that if you like.
The VN should be at home tonight, so if its light ill take a photo of how to remove them. Just get vice grips on the pin tight, so its squeezed in, then hammer the vice grips so remove the pin, its quite simple and doesnt take long at all. The front doors are a bit hard to do, but if you remove the middle one (it stops the door opening as far as possible) you should be able to open the door enough to swap the pins, just have a mate or a jack hold the door.

You can enter your car into the "Door Slammer" category!

LMAO

[Dayvo]

VN are different to VL, as I learnt caus i described the way to remove a VN pin in the VL thread, so you can go find that if you like.
The VN should be at home tonight, so if its light ill take a photo of how to remove them. Just get vice grips on the pin tight, so its squeezed in, then hammer the vice grips so remove the pin, its quite simple and doesnt take long at all. The front doors are a bit hard to do, but if you remove the middle one (it stops the door opening as far as possible) you should be able to open the door enough to swap the pins, just have a mate or a jack hold the door.

LMAO

just a little pointer , if you remove the the part that stops the door opening as far as possible , Just be carefull that you don't oprn the door too far incase the front guard puts a crease in the door

[savage1987]

Thanks guys, I'll do the hinge pins as soon as I can, and play around with the door striker as well.

Had a quick look for that thread you mentioned and couldn't find it... it doesn't matter though, I work at a wrecker so should be able to figure it out!!

[savage1987]

Well I've been lazy, finally got around to having a close look at the door yesterday and it is the hinge pins. I think I'll get a price from Holden tomorrow and see how it goes, I've got some work to do on the 5L as well though, it took a bit of a hit yesterday.

Sam

[savage1987]

Hinge pins x 8 came to $32 or so from Holden, so they'll be on in 3 weeks when I'm back from Paris... VN's getting a greenfoam tune while I'm away as well

Sam

[88GreenVN]

If you have slammed the door on the seat belt buckle at some point this will move the stricker in just a smidge and yep doors hard to close after that. Takes 5 mins to loosen the stricker a bit and tap out a small amount. Hint undo 1 screw all the way loose and just undo the second one enough so when you tap it (the stricker) with a small hammer it moves but does not flop around like a dead fish. Then do all the way tight again before closing the door.

And yes I have adjusted plenty of doors in my time as my dad had a panel shop in the driveway for 30 years and fixed hundres of cars.

[VT-565]

Checked the door seals?

[savage1987]

Door seals are fine. Brown, but fine. lol they're one of the last remaining brown trim pieces in the car. I'll try moving the striker out that tiny bit at the same time and see how we go. Should end up pretty well perfect

Sam