Vp S2 Brake Rotors

[Abrowne70]

Hey guys, im just wondering if anyone has a link to a guide on how to change a VP s2 front brake rotors, as ive had a quick look and i have all the parts and am just needing some help on how to do it.

Thanks in advance,

Anthony

[Morton]

1) Loosen wheel nuts
2) Jack car up
3) Support on a stand
4) Remove wheel nuts + wheel
4a) Remove brake caliper
5) Remove wheel bearing dust cap (may need a screwdriver + hammer to lever off)
6) Remove bearing nut split-pin (trying not to break it if you don't have spares)
7) Remove bearing nut
8) Remove bearings
9) Remove rotor
10) Clean and re-grease bearings, getting grease into all the rollers
11) Install new rotor
12) Replace re-greased bearings
13) Replace bearing nut, but not too tight
14) Replace split-pin
15) Replace dust-cap
16) Replace brake caliper
17) Replace wheel

I just woke up, so I've probably forgotten something there

[Cheap6]

To that pretty comprehensive list I would add:

Clean the dust cap prior to removal.

The new discs will be thicker than the old. Before removing either caliper, carefully lever the pads back from the discs with flat blade screw driver.

The brake calipers (hoses) should be supported rather than left to hang. A cut up wire coat hanger is ideal to use to hook them to the suspension springs.

I would buy (and use) new split pins - 2.5 or 3mm? X 30mm - I can't remember which I just pick the right ones out of a tray of assorted sizes. Sorry. They're cheap and a safety item.

Clean the anti-rust compound or coating off the disc rubbing surfaces (where the pads run) and bearing cups (where the bearings sit in the disc) with acetone or paint thinners and a clean rag before installing. Grease spots on the disc running surface will result in brake shudder.

To repack (re-grease) the bearings, wash and dry your hands, take a scoop of grease with three fingers of your dominant (right?) hand and place that on the inner edge of the palm of your other hand. Pick up a bearing with your (right?) hand and scrape the grease into the bearing rollers from the 'wide' end. Rotate the bearing around until all the rollers are covered. Done correctly, the grease should extrude out the top of the bearing rollers/cage. The blob of grease tends to spread out during the process so I do both small (outer) bearings before the inners.

Scrape some grease into the centre of the disc hub between the bearing cups.

It's best to use new hub seals - the rubber things that fit into the back of the disc after the inner bearing is fitted into the disc. These should be lubricated with wheel bearing grease on the rubbing surface first, which is the minor diameter where they fit over the axle.

Adjust the bearings by tightening until the washer starts to turn with the nut, then back off to the next slot in the nut that lines up with one of the holes in the axle for the split pin. (There are two holes at 90 degrees to each other. Using either is OK).

A loose bearing, within reason, is better than an overtightened bearing. A final check is to rock the wheel in a vertical plane when you are finished; ideally there should be a very small amount of play, barely detectable. The wheel should also rotate freely when spun by hand.

If reusing old brake pads, a light scuff with some coarse garnet (not emery) paper will help them bed in but it's not essential.

[Morton]

Good details there Cheap6 Glad someone could be bothered typing it all out ^___^ Rep added.

[Abrowne70]

Cheers for the reply guys, shall be following these instructions as soon as the rain eases in adelaide.

Thanks so much

Anthony