Wont stop after 1 lap

[1trkmnd]

I know i am stating the obvious here, but after 1 lap round hidden valley my brakes faded sumthin shocking... Is the VT upgrade a good option or is it worth going for 4 piston setup....Just after opinions either way


And a big thanks to greenfoam for the tune mate, I didn't get beaten by the ls1,s by as much as i used to on the straight...

[MaN|aC]

I have a VT V6 with slotted drilled rotors I found it I had break fade and heavy pulsating just on a few laps around Queensland Raceway.

My advice get something better

[1trkmnd]

Turn 1 hairpin is really interesting when you see that 100m marker and your still going 110....

[Morton]

Bigger rotors and calipers are a good start. They will dissipate more heat than the small factory numbers I'm susprised you're brave enough to take a VN with standard brakes out onto the track! In fact, I'm susprised you slowed down for the corners at all lol

Most of your brake fade will come from the fact that your brake pads aren't designed to work in a high temperature range. You need to get yourself some good race pads which are designed to work when very hot. Keep in mind though, good race pads won't function properly until warmed up. They also tend to be made from a very hard compound, and chew thorough rotors like no tomorrow

It's probably also worth investing in braided brake hoses front and back, to stop the lines ballooning under pressure - and get yourself some good high-temp brake fluid so it doesn't boil after just a few laps

Slotted rotors are a good investment. I wouldn't recommend drilled though, unless you get expensive stuff they can have issues with cracking.

[centy]

ok can you get race spec pads?
Fresh fluid may be a good idea to.
Old fluid soaks up water from the air and when it gets realy hot it can boil in your brakes.

[greenfoam]

1trkmnd, my old boss used to do a fair bit of circuit racing in his car, it also used to loose it's brakes after one lap, simple sloted rotors cured his problem 100%. It's mostly gas build up from the heat causing the pads not to bite on the rotor, slots lets them vent out past the pads

[mischa]

Ive taken my stock (brake wise) VN around oran park, mmm brake fade it wasent that bad tho from what i expected, lasted a few laps.

[Reaper]

Depends how often you want to do this. In order of cost......

First thing would be complete brake fluid flush
Slotted rotors (wipes the gasses off the pads)/better high temp pads
Bigger rotors/calipers. VT brakes are a big improvement, 330mm dia are better again.
or if you are really serious you can get a brembo/apracing etc style setup but then you are looking at several thousand fun tickets.

Reaper

[1trkmnd]

Looked at most of the packages out there, so far the PBR package seems to be the best value.... I have spent a heap of money on the suspension so the budget is a little stretched at the moment.....Has any ever tried to run brake ducting to the front rotors.Might be overkill 4 the street, but just 1 thing i thought bout doing after doing the rotor upgrade.. Another thing that worries me is the brake bias... not sure if this anything to worry bout, im not taking to the circuit often enough to spend massive amounts? Thanks for the ideas people. This picture give you an idea of how long the straight is... 1.1 km

[spank]

the VT conversion will be a big improvement if you havent got a few grand to throw at them, i would get front and rear slotted discs, not drilled, at least dba high temp pads, high temp brake fluid and braided hoses, all 5, it will make a huge difference for the money and will probably do

[VrWagz1]

Vt upgrade would be the cheapest out there, but i doubt its going to be suitable for track work, although the twin piston calipers and brake pad size are a massive upgrade on the undersized standard brakes.

[1trkmnd]

i think the fact it was close to 38 degrees may of made the problem even worse.....
Done a bit more research and settled on a AP racing setup..4 piston 330 m fronts. twins on the rear. Now time to max out the credit card again..

Now any opinions on straight or curved slots??

[ucwepn]

other makes' calipers can be adapted to commo's too like the nissan 4 piston, or the rx7 6 piston. if you are going to do track stuff allot go better than vt twin pistons imho. Also check out what the saloon car guys run on the vn's for some more ideas, they seem to work pretty well for a few laps.

[1trkmnd]

Just an update for anyone who is interested...
Just took delivery of the new brakes. Went for a 330 mm front drotor-twin pot Ve Caliper, 315 mm rear rotor ve claiper, Curved slotted on all 4, braided hoses all around. VT M/S and booster(came already to bolt in), Good pads-and everything to fit em for just under $1700 delivered. Let you know how it goes when its fitted and ive done 2 laps

[VrWagz1]

Thats going to be some insane stopping power your going to have, your gonna need a reinforced front window to go with that...... Maybe..
Got any pics of the kit

[Morton]

your gonna need a reinforced front window to go with that

hahahah my thoughts exactly

you're going to love it 1trkmnd Let us know how it goes!

[FusionX]

4 point harness, $200, 20 minute install. Will keep him in the seat.

[1trkmnd]

Ill take some pics when im bolting it up, and the next step will be a better seat, just goota wait for the christmas money to come rollin in.

[1trkmnd]

****UPDATE*****

well its taken a while but i finally found enough time to bolt on the brakes...suprisingly easy if you dont have to get new steel brake lines made....If anyone has a ?? on how to install the UPC brake kit im more than happy to help out..

[mischa]

I want to know if the brake ducting is worth it for the track day, it seems to be a good idea. I might get some corrugated pipe and do it.

Ive seen it done on a VY using that stuff.

[VrWagz1]

Nice work, And how do they stop?? worth the dosh.

[1trkmnd]

havent been to the track yet, its the bloody wet season up here and its hard to keep any temp in them to see when they start to fade..hopefully this cyclone will pass and it will stop raining soon..but its about 3 million % better than standards in the rain...i got to take a pic of the fronts, theres bout a 1mm gap between the rim and the caliper...makes them look huge..

[Morton]

Those brakes do look fantastic though I wish I had the cash to throw at brakes, I bet you can't wait to hit the track with them!

[Emackulation]

Nice work mate! Didn't think you would lash out that quickly. Brake fade sucks when your coming over the hill and braking after the qtr mile.

[HARVZ-6]

brake fade or pedal fade is caused by air in the system...

brake fluid is hygroscopic (sucks up moisture like a sponge) when the brake fluid gets over 100degrees the water boils creating air pockets which is why you loose pedal play..

bleed the system out completely and see how it goes