Stroker kits 355ci

[ScoHar]

Does anyone know about these kits?

~ NEW HOLDEN 355 ci FULL STROKER KIT (HARROP COPY) ~

They say theyre a harrop copy, Not too sure sounds a bit too cheap to be good?

anyone got any info on these?

[immortality]

looks like a procomp stroker kit. i beleive it's a chinese copy. others can probably shead more light. procomp is normally sold by sydney speed shop i think. check there web site

[Morton]

Ahhh yes, ProComp. I bought one of their distributors for my 304. Appalling stuff. Wouldn't touch it again.

However, this appears to be American ProComp, and I've heard that Australian/American/Canadian ProComp are all very different. It may be a decent kit, I'm not sure! Scour google and see if you can find any info

[[JUDGE]]

ive also been looking at a similar one if not the same one off of ebay.
Def be interested to see what ppl have to say about this as i would def be keen on doin this in the future.

[1991_Vn2nV]

For something like a 355 stroker kit, I wouldn't be shopping on Ebay. I'd stick to places that have a good reputation and sell kits you know are going to last you a long time. Having to get a 355 rebuilt because you bought a **** chinese crank isn't something you wanna look at in the future.

[Emackulation]

For something like a 355 stroker kit, I wouldn't be shopping on Ebay. I'd stick to places that have a good reputation and sell kits you know are going to last you a long time. Having to get a 355 rebuilt because you bought a **** chinese crank isn't something you wanna look at in the future.

I tend to agree on this. Would you take a risk with buying the main components of your engine from ebay?

[[JUDGE]]

I tend to agree on this. Would you take a risk with buying the main components of your engine from ebay?

Fair call.
Hence why i asked =]

[Boonz]

if your in SA then go to outlaw speed shop and you can walk out with a 450ish HP stroker kit and manifold and have change from 5 grand.... get it all balanced, machine your block and put it together for under 8 grand.

like others have said previously, do it right the first time it ends up costing less in the end

[Pub247]

THere's been quite a few complaint about these on various other forums i was looking at one myself To good to be true. Eagle and scat are also rather cheap cranks but have a slightly better rep than these procomp and rpm cranks. Supposably all 4 brands are cast in china but the balance and finish are better on the ealge and scat.

Me i'd get a come stroker kit $1400 for the crank rods and piston rings and bearings *check their website just to be sure). From a well known company with a good rep. Crank by themselves is $700 i beleive

[Pub247]

if your in SA then go to outlaw speed shop and you can walk out with a 450ish HP stroker kit and manifold and have change from 5 grand.... get it all balanced, machine your block and put it together for under 8 grand.

like others have said previously, do it right the first time it ends up costing less in the end

8 grand quite pricey if you do some work yourself you'd save heaps I think 5 or 6 would be more reasonable. Myself i think i could do it with a come kit running rebuilt stock heads manifold and a decent cam for less than $3500 with me doing it all myself except the the bore and hone and balance done elsewhere. I have the facilities to do all the at work though so i'd save ****loads

[Boonz]

you do realise its $1600 for a manifiold and throttle body setup right??

you ahve to balance the crank anyway... then shot peen it and then check it again.... i also have a receipt for a whole 355 motor WITH me doing the work myself... and by the time your done it all works out to be about double what you quoted....
by the time you get bearings and cams and lifters and rockers and stuff it all adds up

[Pub247]

Manifold is stock. Balance cost stuff all crank doesnt have to shot peened .
My motor is basic doesnt have all the bells and whistle and things that can be done later on like rockers manifold tb .
Lets see
Stroker kit 1400 (may get it cheaper if i go trade)
Cam, bearings, lifters $500
Say $150 for springs retainer collets at the most
100 for timing set
Race series gaskets less than 200
bore and hone 220 (could do it myself but i've used our machines )
deck done by me
heads done by me
line bores done by me
Balance $300 at the most

$3000 odd spent if you like add anything feel free. I know i can go things like stud kits and all that sort of thing i dont see how you work that out to be double what i spent?

[Boonz]

well you buy a cheaper crank and dont get it prepped properly you will break it..

any time you take metal off the crank it should be hardened again as your taking its hardened layer off when your balancing/lightening... if you dont, you create weak spots which cause breakages when strained.

doesnt cos anything but time if you want to do it yourself,

and stock manifolds arent really ideal for strokers but if your not chasing a bit of power then its not really needed.
would be interesting to see your final figure once your done tho.

but strength/reliability is probably going to be the main issue to your rebuild if you dont prep the crank as its needed

[Pub247]

I understand what your saying about the balancing. Peening isnt the only option as you stated heat treating can be done aswell i never asked the place where i get the balancing if the heat treat the crank afterwards but i assume they would. I got them to balance a v6 for me that i built (running no balance shaft) and the have done a mates 300kw turbo ford mtor and we have not had any issues so far.
I would assume that the internal balance of the come strocker kits would be very good to start with compared to these cheap procomp cranks and minmal amounts of metal would need to removed to acheive perfect balance.
AS for manifold i would more than likely make my own using stock manifold as a base im a boilermaker by trade and do have some experience already making manifolds.
I would more than likely go a stud kit but have never priced one but i'm guessing that they would be around $500

Anyway as for these cheapo cranks stay away as mentioned in this thread your better off spending a bit more and buying a qaulity product. You'll save alot in the long because if they break as some people have reported on different sites its going cost a lot m,ore than a few extra dollars to fix

[Emackulation]

Ok, picture this. Going to the drags and saying "I built my engine from ebay parts".

[Pub247]

Maybe ebay would sponser you drag car and you can save even more??? hmmm i can see it now with big ebay stickers down the side of a vn or something

[immortality]

THere's been quite a few complaint about these on various other forums i was looking at one myself To good to be true. Eagle and scat are also rather cheap cranks but have a slightly better rep than these procomp and rpm cranks. Supposably all 4 brands are cast in china but the balance and finish are better on the ealge and scat.

Scat are a US company and make some bloody good cranks at very good prices (especially chevy stuff). make some bloody strong rods also. as far as i know they manufacture inthe US. certainly wouldn't put em in the same "cheap" catagory as Procomp and RPM brands in terms of quality. check

www.ScatCrankshafts.com

[Cobez]

Yeah you hear of alot of decent powered V8's using Scat rods and cranks, from what i have heard all around, they definantly aren't cheapo's. Really high powered V8's (some 600+kw's) i dare say there would be better gear out there, but i wouldn't put Scat gear in the cheap nasty category.

[ScoHar]

Yea all the machining will be done by myself, Just need the parts, I can feel what ya meaning with cheap chinese cranks, as we have had a lot of cheap chinese heads with many problems go wrong (mostly diesel) If the other one with better rep is $1400 then well there's not much difference fom $1250, may aswell get the one thats been used and proven, Im going to spend around $2500 on parts and I'll do the rest, Cam crank tunnels honed, bore honed, block heads manifolds surfaced, new s/s valves with 3 angle grind to my specs

And I have a mate who is awesome with porting so ill get him to do my porting on his flow bench.

All in all im hoping for something round the 500hp @ flywheel.

Box has been rebuilt and diff is about to get new gears and rebuilt, also 2 piston calipers on the cards, but see how crazy it gets with the pussers on there.

[Pub247]

Scat are a US company and make some bloody good cranks at very good prices (especially chevy stuff). make some bloody strong rods also. as far as i know they manufacture inthe US. certainly wouldn't put em in the same "cheap" catagory as Procomp and RPM brands in terms of quality. check

www.ScatCrankshafts.com

I never said they were **** I said they were cheap by that i meant price wise not quality. I did say supposably cast in china that what people are saying whether it true or not is a different story.
Their crank have been known to break and we are talking about cast cranks aren't we? when you get into forged or billet (which of coarse cost more than $500) they certainly are stronger

[greenfoam]

Most decent cast cranks are good for 8000 rpm+ it's enough. I never heard anyone complain about a scat crank but everything is made in China (China have all the machines). Don't forgot those guys have sent people into orbit, they build their own Mig's, they are years more advanced than Australia tech wise so we can't really complain. It's just that they send us the crap stuff most of the time. Doesn't mean they can't make good stuff when the cause calls for it.

Also the average Chinese spanner is finally at the stage where they don't bend, it took 20 years but they made them work in the end :P

[immortality]

the problem with china isn't the quality items they make, it's the cheap knock-offs that are sold as the genuine item that cause all the problems. there isn't a single thing that can't be had in china as knock-off.

[greenfoam]

As someone once said, every Chinese factory has a front door and a back door

[ScoHar]

exactly, I import alot of chinese equipment for my work and Yes every now and again you do have a failure but for the volume of equipment your moving through (because its cheaper than its US or OZ equivalent so therefore more sales) hence more volume hence more failures, Its not really about their quality everyone has failures everynow and again.

As for shot peening or hardening the crank after material has been removed for balancing, isn't required. I Sell engine balancers, a very very reputable brand, and well none of the guys here seem to do anything, since the hardening isn't just in relation to the surface hardness of the crank no surface hardening is required. As long as when it was done it was hardened properly.

[Shuttsy]

I am looking into stroking out my 304 to a 355 and want to supercharge it. i want to get about 500rwhp (so i can beat my mates turbo sylvia) i want to find a vt roller block for the job as i have heard they are a much better block. what exactly is better about them??? also i would like to run some group a twin throttle bodies but can you run a supercharger with them?