Balancer removal
ok guys i pulled out the engine to change sump, upon removal ive found a spring inside, ive been told that its off my timing chain tensioner,
was wondering whats the best way to remove balancer bolt and so on
with engine out
Donating Member
Best way is with either use a rattle hun or if you dont have one use a breaker bar up against the chassis and crank the motor over to crack it. You will also need a puller to remove the balancer
Originally Posted by Smidy
rattle gun didnt work and the motor is hangin on the crane
Donating Member
you need to use something to stop the motor turning over. if the flywheel is still on put something in that to stop it turning
well this keeps getting better and better ive managed to get cover off to find the my spring is still in place and is also abit different any idea's where this spring could be from...i'm hoping maybe is was replaced by previous owner and they failed to find this 1. the spring i found is alot smaller
Last edited by the executive; 27-09-2008 at 03:07 PM.
does anyone know the diff between series1-2 springs
Donating Member
it defenitely look like a tensioner spring. In the timing chain thread i updated it with some more info. I dont think there's a difference between series 1 and 2 springs. But there are 2 types of tensioners a long bolt and a short bolt. Vr onwards run a long bolt where the thread in the block starts further back (in deeper) I'm 99% sure all models before this run the short bolt tensioner
besides being bigger another diff is the type of metal 1 round 1 square(pic)
Donating Member
What do you mean by that? are you saying the spring is round but the other is square? I dont see it making a difference. If the one in picture is square its most likely the original aftermarkets would be round as it easier to make
heres a pic of the 1 the same as whats on engine you can see the diff
Donating Member
What is difference?
mine has 3 coils the other 5-6
Donating Member
And thats an issue because? Is the one the picture with 5 coil genuine? the numbers of coils wouldnt really make a difference except maybe a little more tension
i dont know why im just trying to work out if i have a problem or not
For external use only
Maybe the last owner chucked it in the sump for a joke? There's nothing else in an engine, that could fall into the sump, that looks even remotely like thatI'm fairly confident it's not a problem at all
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The 1989 VN Turbo Rally Project
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i hope so, guess i'll find out when its all back in
Donating Member
Yeah morton's right there's nothing remotely similar to that spring in the engine beside the tensioner. You should not have a problem with the tensioner pictured as long as the it has the right length bolt. They are a bit of a pain to put on especially if its a new chain
Banned
Thats apart of a peg dude! replace your pegs!
lol its the spring for the timeing chain tensioner. by the sounds its been replaced before (previous owner) when they break its almost impossible to get it out ouf teh sump so id say its been in there since the....should you worry....no its fine
as for teh tensioner when i changed teh one on me vn i used one like what you posted......the series 2 ones as teh series one ones are ****.
Donating Member
WTF???? what is a peg?
the only other srings i can think of in the engine are the oil pressure springs and i'm sure they are compression springs so you will be all good.
as i said keeps getting better and better bottom right timing cover bolt hadn't even reached the 30nm there meant tobe and the bloody thing snapped on me
Donating Member
remember to put the CAS on first? before you did that bolt up?
knew i forgot something, i think i'll stop workin on cars i just seem to stuff up time after time
Last edited by the executive; 28-09-2008 at 02:37 PM.
For what it's worth, the timing chain tensioner design was revised during the VN series. It was quite common for the tensioner spring to fall off prior to that. It's not worth pulling the sump to dig it out, and I'd say that it was there for a while.
I'm not sure how the executive undid the balancer retaing bolt but with the sump off, the easiest way to stop the crank roating is to wedge a block of wood between the crank balancer weight and the side of the block. It probably doesn't matter a whole lot but I prefer to do that close to the end of the engine block, where it reduces the bending moment on the crank, and where the engine block is strongest. That may help when tightening the bolt.
It's not unusual for old timing cover bolts to corrode, making it more likely they will break on reinstallation. Worth making sure that the female thread is clean (with a thread tap or at least another bolt with a flat ground on one side) and not filled with old gasket or dried coolant and bottoming out the bolt though. On the bright side, the engine is out of the car and easier to get to in order to get the rest of the bolt out.
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