my VP wont stop Overheating

[Holdengirl666]

Hi there,
can some one provide a solution to my overheating problem.
every couple of days my VP over heats it has a new radiator hoses etc we've take out the thermostat and that works fine also done engin and radiator flushes. it doesnt leak any where and no mechanices can find anything wrong with it. its fine on the open road doesnt get hot at all but as soon as im in town going slow it starts to boil grrrr its driving me nuts!!

Thanks in advance for any help you can provide

[TVR-190]

is it the V6,4 cyl, v8 ???

Maybe the radiator itself is on the way out

[Holdengirl666]

its a V6 an na that was replaced on the weekend and its still doing it

[TVR-190]

is the fan behind the radiator running?

[Holdengirl666]

it wasnt when we replaced the radiator but then we relised that it was plugged in again so thats all connected and running fine. but still boiling

[TVR-190]

i know its silly but is the actual radiator connected to power.


i was stuffing around 1 day and unplugged mine, was wondering why temp was off the scale when i was driving along after a while.

[Troyziee]

does it actually overheat, or does the water in the reserve bottle just boil over once u stop?

cause iv got the same problem, but its once i park the reserve bottle boils over, and again ive done flushes, thermostats taken it to specialist radiator places and no1 can find the problem, thought it may have been a cracked head, but had a compression test and was all good, ive just come to live with it now, never actually overheats while im driving

[Holdengirl666]

lol yeah i know my brother felt like a idiot when we relised but its going now and as of yesterday the car is still boiling every couple of days. The radiator cap is cold while its boiling i dont know if that sheds any light to the issue?

[Holdengirl666]

does it actually overheat, or does the water in the reserve bottle just boil over once u stop?

cause iv got the same problem, but its once i park the reserve bottle boils over, and again ive done flushes, thermostats taken it to specialist radiator places and no1 can find the problem, thought it may have been a cracked head, but had a compression test and was all good, ive just come to live with it now, never actually overheats while im driving

yeah it does but moer so when the pressure is release for the radiator

[88GreenVN]

I'd change the thermostat just in case. The top hose should be getting real hot if is was boiling.

Also the temps sensor maybe dodgy too.

Are you loosing coolant at all??

[Holdengirl666]

we took it out completely it isnt that necessary. yeah the top hose gets hot but not to bad still touchable. and i was thinking the sensor was dodgy but every time its said it was hot it was so it maybe fine. and no its not losing it other than evaporating cuz its so hot i have to fill it every couple of days.

[88GreenVN]

What point on the gauge does the fan cut in? (should be about half way up)

[Holdengirl666]

yeah at half way it kicks in again but its pretty much off and on the hole time

[88GreenVN]

Is the water pump working properly?

If the car has mormal level of coolant, working thermostat, no air locks from the heater not being on when bleeding the system, fan working and new radiator.

The car should not be over heating.

Is the oil a good colour inside the cap? (rocker cover) not milky at all.

Are you getting bubbles at the radiator with the cap off? Just wondering if you have a blown head gasket.

[Holdengirl666]

yeah the pump is working fine, and we have taken the thermostat out so thats not an issue any more my heater is permantly one cant turn it off and the system has been bleed no air locks.... no the oil is fine. and no no bubbles i was wonder the same thing or maybe a cracked head but theres no bubbles. its driving me nuts!

[skyper]

if u do this it will fix it ,4 a start u can not drive a v6 with sucess without a thermostate,u need to buy a new one and put it in ,the water runs through the raditator to quick to cool,u said the raditator is new so its not that,u said the fan works so its not that,but blown head gaskets r hard to fine somtimes ,so if the thermo dosn,t fix it and it will ,as a last resort get a bottle of chemiweld and your problems r over,now the chemiweld is only if the thermo dosn't fix it because its got a blown head and the chemiweld will fix that no worries, the heater tap is on the right hand side of the engine and works buy vacum and can be manually turned off,the biggest problem is getting all the air out of the system it can take somtimes half an hour ,u must bleed the system to get the air out,BUY A THERMO

[brad1969]

my vp does the same thing. for some reason unknown to me if i dont run the fan and air con pretty much all the time, the radiator fan doesnt kick in in time to cool the coolant down. Try leaving your air con or at least your fan on and see if it helps.

[burnz]

we took it out completely it isnt that necessary. yeah the top hose gets hot but not to bad still touchable. and i was thinking the sensor was dodgy but every time its said it was hot it was so it maybe fine. and no its not losing it other than evaporating cuz its so hot i have to fill it every couple of days.

water pump for shure.
if it boils and the top hose is not scolding hot; it's the water pump.

[skyper]

im glad some of u guys arn't fixing my car,if the top hose is not getting hot and the thermo is working than its the water pump but its more than likely the thermostate is not opening and in extreme cases the engine block boils,if the water pump is gone its more than likely leaking out the bottom of it because the bearing is shot and the impeller has eaten out the back of the caseing HOLDENGIRL666 DO WHAT I SAID AND IT WILL FIX IT

[commsirac]

HOLDENGIRL666 DO WHAT I SAID AND IT WILL FIX IT

Cant really make any sense of what you said, but this did stand out as nonsense:

if,the water runs through the raditator to quick to cool,

,

the faster the water goes through the radiator, the higher the heat removed from the engine and transferred to the air, though once a certain speed is attained any increases in cooling are marginal.......as dictated by the laws of thermodynamics.
That being said, I agree the car needs to have the thermostat in it. Im not sure that having it out could cause much of a problem at idle and given that you had the problem before you took the thermostat out, then its not the problem. Do remember rule 101 of cooling: removal of thermostat is never a solution to a cooling problem.

If the top hose is cool enough to hold your hand around for a few seconds with the temp of the dial then there is a coolant circulation problem. That could be due to blockage, thermostat/turbulence or water pump.
Also, you havent mentioned coolant? are you running a 50/50mix of glycol? The fans dont switch until close to 100C(localised regions getting much hotter), if the coolant starts boiling then that will cause circulation problems to. The boiling point elevation of the mix may be critical here, but cant confirm that as I havent experimented running a comm on straight water.

Holdengirl, if the problem is really getting the better of you, invest in an IR temp sensor. You can get them for ~$40 and stop guessing as to what the problem may be.
Measure the temp on the cylinder head, heater hoses,top hose,top tank of the radiator, half way down the radiator, bottom hose with fan on and fan off. This will give you a better idea of how welll the coolant is circulating and the cooling down in the radiator

[skyper]

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[skyper]

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