vp distributor

[Vt-Brrrlina]

is someone able to tell me if this picture is corect for a vp v8 - if not can someone draw a diagram of how the leads should sit on the distributor please

cheers
Ben

[twinturbo5l]

[Vt-Brrrlina]

mate if u lived in perth that would be worth a beer or 2 - runnin sweet now

[stocky]

im guessing you put the dizzy in backwards?

[Vt-Brrrlina]

nah dizzy was in corect leads were about a quarter turn the wrong way but in corect order if that makes sence - was gettin ignition at all so knew something was out of whack but couldnt find a proper firing order - so now thats sorted and timed in shes sweet

[Vt-Brrrlina]

dont spose yad know - it now idles about 1100 - 1200 revs - ive adjusted the little idle adjust screw - but to no avail thats the lowest i can get it - it doesnt surge or anything is quite stable - are there any other ways to reduce the idle is that a timing thing as well ?????

[Brin]

Quite normal.. I think

[greenfoam]

Your timing must be advanced too far if it's idling faster than it did before

[stocky]

is your engine light on? limp home mode would idle around 1200 rpm for me

[Vt-Brrrlina]

the sticker on the main strut says idle should be around 750 rpm the throttlebody i have is a secondhandy outta the paper so maaybe a good clean out would help there - not to sure - im learning as i go at the minute - wish i was rich and could afford a mechanic

[Vt-Brrrlina]

yes the engine light comes on still - (forgot sorry) - yeh not sure why - will go and check it out now

[stocky]

rev it a bit. sound any different?

[Vt-Brrrlina]

its still setting code 44 - ive literally just replaced

oxy sensor
leads
spark plugs
dizzy cap
rotor
air cleaner
and timed to approx 10 degrees btdc in diagnostic mode


edit:

sounds fine revving - though when test driving did drop idle to almost stall twice

[stocky]

code 44 is oxy sensor is lean. maybe it needs to wear in a little?

[Vt-Brrrlina]

can o2 sensors take some time to wear in?>... or should i maybe adjust the timing a lil - for what reasons would i advance or retard it - as far as im aware its a standard bt1 exec -so cant imagine any work being done on it

[greenfoam]

nah the timing must be good, Somtimes the o2 sensors dont read correctly if you have headers but I haven't heared of that happening on V8s only the V6's (very common on V6 pacemakers). Maybe just maybe it is lean:!)? (but I doubt it)

[Vt-Brrrlina]

i have pacemaker extractors if this helps or not - i cant be certain if this is normal or not as the engine light globe had blown only found out when all these dramas started up - but i do know it did use to idle down around 750 odd prior to the accident

[greenfoam]

ah hey I remember this is the car with the smashed in bonnet? what parts did you have to replace? the throttle body?

[Vt-Brrrlina]

yeh throttle body was replaced

fuel rail joiner pipe - changed to braided line as couldnt source the right part

air cleaner box replaced - with same cold air induction proper otr

and clutch fan taken off - replaved with thermos

the t/b is off a statesman i beleive in case they are different

[Morton]

stato throttle bodies should be identical

[VrWagz1]

Have you cleared the codes and seen if they come back yet. With the V8's do you have to set the revs with that reving at 3000rpm thing when you first startup after battery dissconnected??? if so maybe thats why its idling high

[Vt-Brrrlina]

ill give that a shot - vr wagz

[VrWagz1]

I cant remember, someone can maybe reafirm this. I think you have to hold it a 3000rpm for 1 minute??, i think it calibrates the tps, which you would have replaced with the new T/B. This should help the iac work properly then. I'll do a bit of a search and see what i can find, its gota be here somwhere.

edit: I found this, its not what i was after, but somthing to read. Was by cheap6

Base idle is the idle speed with the IAC port blocked. I'm not a big fan of adjusting base idle without a good reason, like engine mods. There may be a case to do so if the engine has some wear on it but i would look to other things first.

Before attempting any adjustment, ensure that everything else is right first, like engine tune items. The throttle body should be clean(ed) as the amount of air flowing past it, which is what is being changed by moving the throttle stop screw, is affected by build up on the edge of the throttle plate. Cleaning is best done with the t'body off the car and the Idle Air Control motor removed (the IAC is the cylindrical component attached by two Torx screws). Use a rag soaked in solvent, kerosene works well, to wipe the inside of the t'body, IAC air port, IAC motor tip and throttle plate. Take care, as it is possible to bend the throttle plate. Using carburettor cleaner from a pressure pack, as is commonly done, can result in the grease being washed from the throttle spindle and IAC motor spindle, so don't.

The green cover is an anti-tamper device for the throttle stop screw which is what needs to be moved to adjust base idle. if it is missing, it means that someone has already moved the screw, generally to a position other than where it should be.

If you still think that you need to adjust the base idle, remove the green cap and mark the positon of the screw so at least you can go back if necessary. You will need a tachometer. The ones in the dash are not very accurate, so an external one is best. Many automotive multimeters will have this function built in. With the throttle body (and IAC) back on the car, warm the car to operating temperature and bridge the diagnostic terminals on the diagnostic link under the steering column. This locks the ignition timing to 10 degrees and prevents the idle being changed by the ECM altering ignition timing. Remove the inlet air duct and elbow. With all accessories turned off, including the engine cooling fan (you will have to wait as it cycles on and off), block the IAC air port with a finger and adjust the idle screw, if required, to achieve 450-550 rpm. Note that the engine will almost stall at this speed and you will burn your finger on the throttle body . Put everything back together. Expect the idle to flare when you first allow air past the IAC port, as the ECM will have been trying to correct for the low idle speed caused by blocking it. That's pretty much it. You can allow the ECM to relearn a base IAC motor position by idling in the various combinatiopn of A/C on/off, drive/neutral but just driving the car will achieve that.

[stocky]

30 seconds. and let it warm up first. dont go revving to 3000rpm on a cold engine

[Emackulation]

3k for like 10 seconds.