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Thread: S1 VN to S2 VN+ Inlet Manifold Swap

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    Default S1 VN to S2 VN+ Inlet Manifold Swap

    Since i will be one of the lucky people receiving the bonus this year, i want to buy myself a little gift. The rest will be going to my parents as they have put up with my grief for way to long now lol

    I thought since i MAY (depending on the results of my previous post) have to buy a set of reco injectors as mine maybe leaking. The one thing that ****s me up the wall is the fact that the thermostat housing is right at the back of the motor.

    Since ill be swapping injectors, and ill be getting some money soon i thought stuff it, and ill swap over the manifolds to save me anymore greif in the future.

    I have had a search via this and different forums and the only thing that is bothering me is the drilling of the pcv valve. Now do i need to drill a hole into the inlet manifold (which im 95% sure is right) or the head itself?? Because all we ahve is a dodgy rechargeable bigw drill and i will be LUCKY to get through the inlent manifold lol

    I have read many people say this but no pictures showing exactly what needs to be drilled? Would anyone be able to post one up at all? Im currently running to the garage and the comp diagnosing my fuel psi issue atm, but when i get back i will do a write up of howto swap inlet manifolds with pics and all...

    But first just need to know what exact bits i need lol Ill do some searching when i get back and compile a list, but if in the mean time ur bored, you can always do the hard work for meeeee hahha

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    you would also need to change the rest of the cooling system over as well. they use a different radiator and overflow system on the s2 engines. yes the thermostat at the back is a pain but the flip side is that the system is real easy to bleed (it does it itself ) i honestly don't think it's worth the effort
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    easy cowboy,

    you need to drill the head from memory and no a ****ty cordless drill wont cut it :P, or just go out and buy a set of EV6 heads (series2 heads) that will bolt onto the block and bolt up the manifold, but better yet... go buy some ecotec heads, inlet manifold and you'll get some killa wasps but then again ever changed heads? if you havnt its a bit of a learning curve

    id go guy a xbox or something

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    Quote Originally Posted by immortality View Post
    i honestly don't think it's worth the effort
    My thoughts exactly.

    You'd be better off saving for a full engine swap to something with the correct amount of cylinders

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    Hahha and would the amount of cylinders require 8 spark plugs perhaps?????

    I should of thought about it a bit more.. i think i was a little to excited that i found out what was wrong with the car, and thought thats what im going to do next :O

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    Quote Originally Posted by VT-565 View Post
    My thoughts exactly.

    You'd be better off saving for a full engine swap to something with the correct amount of cylinders
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    You have to drill the heads but having the thermostat up the back of the engine isn't that big of a deal

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    Quote Originally Posted by shmickmik View Post
    Hahha and would the amount of cylinders require 8 spark plugs perhaps?????

    I should of thought about it a bit more.. i think i was a little to excited that i found out what was wrong with the car, and thought thats what im going to do next :O
    Don't listen to me mate, I was just having a bit of a dig, since i've got two V8's and don't stir anyone up that often about it lol

    I used to have a 6 and f.ucked around with it quite a lot, i chose another direction, but each to their own.

    Back to topic though, it's not that big of a deal as foam said.

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    I wouldn't be changing the manifold at all. You only change the thermostat... what, once every year when you do a cooling system flush? And that's if you're keen, some people wait two years.

    Spend the money on stiffer swaybars instead
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    Quote Originally Posted by PaRaDoX View Post
    easy cowboy,

    you need to drill the head from memory and no a ****ty cordless drill wont cut it :P, or just go out and buy a set of EV6 heads (series2 heads) that will bolt onto the block and bolt up the manifold, but better yet... go buy some ecotec heads, inlet manifold and you'll get some killa wasps but then again ever changed heads? if you havnt its a bit of a learning curve

    id go guy a xbox or something
    i didnt think the ecotec heads fitted?

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    Thanks for the advice guys I think i am still a little emotionally scarred from the time i had to change the thermostat, and had found out it was pretty much welded to the manifold when it came time to take it out

    In the long run if i was going to spend money on the engine i woul dbe better off saving the money for an ecotec.

    Thanks again

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    Quote Originally Posted by Morton View Post
    I wouldn't be changing the manifold at all. You only change the thermostat... what, once every year when you do a cooling system flush? And that's if you're keen, some people wait two years.

    Spend the money on stiffer swaybars instead
    Or a strut brace.

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    Quote Originally Posted by greenfoam View Post
    You have to drill the heads but having the thermostat up the back of the engine isn't that big of a deal
    i think it might actually be better, the coolant only travels on way through the engine. with the thermostat at the front coolant needs to travel all the way to the back and then back to the front again. spends a lot more time in the engine

    Quote Originally Posted by Morton View Post
    I wouldn't be changing the manifold at all. You only change the thermostat... what, once every year when you do a cooling system flush? And that's if you're keen, some people wait two years.

    Spend the money on stiffer swaybars instead
    wow, once a year. i haven't changed mine in like 5 years i think i will change it this week because i'm going to have to drain the cooling system again to remove the ballance shaft and i changed the water pump last week
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    But the quantity of water is also increased...so the rate that the temperature can rise decreases

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    My VN wouldn't have had more than 3 thermostats in it in 20 years infact I don't think I ever did replace the one in it because it still works

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    Quote Originally Posted by crazybiker View Post
    But the quantity of water is also increased...so the rate that the temperature can rise decreases
    they use the same waterpump so flowrates would be the same through the engine.

    the only reason i'm changing my thermostat now is so that in a few years mine might fail, i've already fitted a new one now, so i don't ahve to drain the coolant again in a few years. that'll save me a few $$$ in a few years so that will go towards another mod somewhere else. i can thank my dutch heritage for that
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    Flow rate is the same. But quantity is more.

    You use the same kettle with 0.5L and 1.5L of water. 0.5L will boil MUCH quicker, as compared to 1.5L.

    Same thing with the motor, just not that drastically.

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    Quote Originally Posted by crazybiker View Post
    Flow rate is the same. But quantity is more.

    You use the same kettle with 0.5L and 1.5L of water. 0.5L will boil MUCH quicker, as compared to 1.5L.

    Same thing with the motor, just not that drastically.
    true, but the difference isn't that great between the s1 and s2 engines. also the coolant quantity in the engine would be almost identical although the rest of the cooling system may have a greater quantity
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    s1 10liters
    s2 12liters

    so a 13% increase
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    Not much. But still enough to make a slight difference, to balance out the effect of it staying in the motor longer?

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    i got easy 11lts in my s1 last month when i replaced it i remember cause i got 10 and had to go back to the shop for more
    im not admiring your car im looking in disgust


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