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Thread: Pod or coldair

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    Default Pod or coldair

    now im sorta a newbi but iv always loved vn
    i had pod on my old project car but had to sell it
    i got new project vn and im wounder what really works better and do they give u want they say they give
    coldintake= 20hp true or fluse
    pod 15=true or fluse witch wld be better to get better power
    or if theres anything els i can do
    thts quick n cheaps cheers

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    You'll find your answer here - Whats better: Pod or Panel filter?

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    i think hes saying to use the search and find a previous thread lol
    Quote Originally Posted by Shooter03 View Post
    Washed it and now the wife's gonna take it out and get it dirty.
    Quote Originally Posted by QldKev View Post
    You are talking about the car?

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    lol his saying to use the search function..... they put it there for a reason


    btw this sort of thread if brought up weekly... so im sure you can find all the info you need


    EDIT: social beat me to it lol

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    sorry guys i thought he ment tht
    but dsnt come up with anything maybe im doing wrong

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    Here's some facts:

    - A cold air intake, is something that literally gets cold air into your manifold.
    - Colder air makes more power, that's a fact.
    - Engine bay air is hot, that is ALSO a fact.
    - A pod filter, exposed in the engine bay, sucks in air from the engine bay.

    And here's some more facts:

    - A good panel filter, like a K&N, can flow MORE air than a mild V6 or V8 will ever need.
    - A good panel filter, like a K&N, will filter the air very well.
    - A cheap pod filter, will not necessarily filter the air very well at all.

    Make your own choice

    As far as I can see, all a pod filter does is put dirty, hot air in your engine. You lose power and slowly kill your motor. I don't know why people do it.
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    thanks morton tht sounds good
    im gonna oder a cold air intake off ebay
    got any ways i shud set it up to get best power i can get from intake
    willing to do anything really not anything to costly but reasonable cheers

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    Don't order one off ebay straight away. You can make one yourself very cheaply if you have a little bit of handy knowhow, and some spare time. Search for some threads about CAI or Cold Air Intakes, and take a look at the pictures of what people have made. If you DO buy one off ebay, don't pay more than $60.
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    or do what morton and foamy done, get some flexy piping and run it to your bar


    btw morton, found some plastic piping in my garage but it has little slits in it, completely useless? or would the air got that quick that it would pass them?

    there not bodgy slits, there meant to be there so yeah? worth it or epic fails?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Morton View Post
    Here's some facts:

    - A cold air intake, is something that literally gets cold air into your manifold.
    - Colder air makes more power, that's a fact.
    - Engine bay air is hot, that is ALSO a fact.
    - A pod filter, exposed in the engine bay, sucks in air from the engine bay.

    And here's some more facts:

    - A good panel filter, like a K&N, can flow MORE air than a mild V6 or V8 will ever need.
    - A good panel filter, like a K&N, will filter the air very well.
    - A cheap pod filter, will not necessarily filter the air very well at all.

    Make your own choice

    As far as I can see, all a pod filter does is put dirty, hot air in your engine. You lose power and slowly kill your motor. I don't know why people do it.

    all good points morton. however in my opinion POD's give better throttle repsonse, so if you fit a K&N POD like i have then you have the best of both worlds i see a filter as a restriction, if a standard panel filter is like sucking through 2 straws then the K&N panel is like sucking through 3 straws. the engine does a little less work in getting the air in so more power to the wheels. if a K&N panel filter is like 3 straws then the K&N POD filter would be like sucking through 4 straws, it's easier again.....

    a engine is basically a big airpump. it sucks air in and then blows air out. if you can increase the efficiency of the intake and exhaust more of the power created goes to the wheels

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    Quote Originally Posted by MAC-VN View Post
    now im sorta a newbi but iv always loved vn
    i had pod on my old project car but had to sell it
    i got new project vn and im wounder what really works better and do they give u want they say they give
    coldintake= 20hp true or fluse
    pod 15=true or fluse witch wld be better to get better power
    or if theres anything els i can do
    thts quick n cheaps cheers


    True or fluse? What's a fluse? Is that like a huse?

    Use this mate, it's your friend: http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/search.php
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    As already stated, mate you're an absolute gherkin strummer.

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    Probably not the place to bring it up, but has anyone here run their car for long periods of time without filters?

    I dont live in an especially dusty climate, and I have run carbed engines for tens of thousands of ks unfiltered with no problems. Now I can see the usefullness of a filter in keeping a MAF sensor clean, but are MAP and MAT sensors really that susceptable to dust?
    IMO seems like another unneeded restriction.

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    Nah, i wouldn't recommend NOT using a filter. That's a bit silly. On a daily at least. Doesn't matter if you don't live in a dusty climate, there is still dirt and bits of grass and crap that floats around in the air. Get that inside your engine and it's not all that great for it.
    Quote Originally Posted by wikky
    As already stated, mate you're an absolute gherkin strummer.

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    What a silly idea. Dust and dirt containing sand particles will get into your motor, heat up, and cause great amounts of corrosion over time. If any of it makes its way past your oil rings, and gets into your bearings, you can kiss the motor goodnight

    I don't care how much anyone bugs on about "throttle response" and "restriction", I have never seen any real results to support a pod giving a car more power than a panel. Back in the days of my blue VP, I used to g-tech it regularly. I g-teched it many times in a row, in the same direction, on the same stretch of road with the panel filter in, and with no filter at all still running through the CAI. In THEORY, that should have more "throttle response" than a pod filter. But there was no real difference between both sets of results. They were all the same. In fact, my fastest time was run with the filter in.
    Last edited by Morton; 25-12-2008 at 02:20 PM.
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    But Daniel, the filter is just another restriction!! Drop the filter, and you will gain 20rwkw+ in power!! lolzcoptor.
    Quote Originally Posted by wikky
    As already stated, mate you're an absolute gherkin strummer.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Morton View Post
    What a silly idea. Dust and dirt containing sand particles will get into your motor, heat up, and cause great amounts of corrosion over time. If any of it makes its way past your oil rings, and gets into your bearings, you can kiss the motor goodnight

    I don't care how much anyone bugs on about "throttle response" and "restriction", I have never seen any real results to support a pod giving a car more power than a panel. Back in the days of my blue VP, I used to g-tech it regularly. I g-teched it many times in a row, in the same direction, on the same stretch of road with the panel filter in, and with no filter at all still running through the CAI. In THEORY, that should have more "throttle response" than a pod filter. But there was no real difference between both sets of results. They were all the same. In fact, my fastest time was run with the filter in.
    i totally agree that you shouldn't run without a filter. as for the panel Vs POD. well i've done plenty of runs with my POD and panel filter before that using the Gtech (on the same stretch of road but going in both directions as it then negates the effect of a possible head/tail wind )and i'm only going of what i've experienced. i can confidently say that a properly shielded POD with CAI will produce NO less power then a standard airbox fitted with a highflow filter with CAI. I will stick to my previous statements above. people can make up there own minds. people here are quick to rubbish something different. if the POD is done right it's no worse then the panel setup period.
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    It's true, if set up fully sealed, with a good CAI, a pod will perform just the same as a good panel filter. My only question then, is why use a pod, when all the stuff for a panel filter is already there?

    But if someone wants to use a pod, buy a GOOD one, and set it up PROPERLY, then there's nothing wrong with that at all
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    Only time I see a pod being worth while is in cirumstances where the Airbox can no longer be used.
    Mainly an issue in Higher performance Japanese cars, Front mount pipe work can take up alot of room. And lets face it, a CAI does SFA on a car thats having the intake air run through a turbo charger or two spinning at about 15,000rpm. In which case, you'll see most performance builds have a stainless/alloy pipe from the turbo to the AFM with a pod on the end of it, the easier it is for the turbo to breath, the quicker it spools which ends in an epic win.
    For an NA pushrod V6 thats flat out spinning to 6000rpm the colder air from an external source (Inner guard, front of radiator) is going to serve the engine better.

    Cold air has more oxygen molecules in any given volume than hot air.
    More oxygen means a hotter burn.
    A hotter burn is more efficient.
    A more efficient burn will result in more power.
    So in my humble opinion, retaining the standard airbox will avoid undue attention from the boys in blue, while allowing you some leeway to plumb alternative pipework to it, in order to feed the engine colder air. Is most probably the best way to go about it.
    Something you may wish to address, is the structure of the pipework post airbox.
    Corrogated pipe work can cause turbulence within the intake. Turbulance can/will slow down the air flow.
    The easier it is for the engine to breath, the more efficiently it will work. In theory, how said theory will function in practice in a 20yr old NA v6 I don't know. I've never owned or worked on one.

    I hope this is of some value. It's only my opinion. Although it is one I have come to after a few years of working on various vehicles. (Turbo, NA, 4,6 an 8's)
    Last edited by soop; 26-12-2008 at 04:06 PM.

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    you can buy a genuine one from holden for about 60 for the cai.
    you can also make a foam filter for your intake box.
    these 2 mods plus a v8 throttle body will make the old girl go.
    next froim that you get extractors then a chip to use the goodies.
    later down the track shift kit and corvette servo.

    ps pod filters that are not enclosed in a box may not be legal.

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    Quote Originally Posted by centy View Post
    you can also make a foam filter for your intake box.
    I wouldn't be too confident on the filtering power of such a thing There are some purpose-built aftermarket foam filters you can buy that flow well, but let a crapload of dust and dirt through. HKS do foam filters, and they let through STACKS of pollution and dust. In a test I have in front of me, they rated 9th out of 10 for filtration. Very poor. And it didn't even flow that well, at 530cfm.

    Quote Originally Posted by centy View Post
    these 2 mods plus a v8 throttle body will make the old girl go
    A V8 throttle body will do nada for a V6. The throttle elbow is still smaller, and will cancel out any gains. You can make the throttle body as big as you want, even 100mm, still nothing will be gained. The induction system only flows as well as the smallest point. It's like having a 5" exhaust running off a 2.25" cat... it'll still only flow as much as you can fit through the cat.

    Quote Originally Posted by centy View Post
    pod filters that are not enclosed in a box may not be legal.
    Depends who you ask VicRoads/RTA/QT etc have no problems with an exposed pod filter, they just want to see it mounted properly and securely and permanently (i.e. not with cable ties). A Highway Patrol officer on the other hand, will see it as an EPA infringement for noise reasons, and if it is a cotton oiled filter, it presents a fire hazard and an emissions infringement.
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    Quote Originally Posted by soop View Post
    For an NA pushrod V6 thats flat out spinning to 6000rpm the colder air from an external source (Inner guard, front of radiator) is going to serve the engine better.
    the problem with the Q in the OP is that it asks CAI or POD. the problem is that neither the POD or standard airbox is that great without the CAI. this is the reason that no matter what setup you go with (standard airbox with highflow panel filter or shielded POD) you need to fit a decent CAI. i still suggest the Morton style 100mm pipe ducted from the front bar as the best option. the holden super6 CAI just doens't work that well unless you butcher it with a heat gun

    Quote Originally Posted by Morton View Post
    A V8 throttle body will do nada for a V6. The throttle elbow is still smaller, and will cancel out any gains. You can make the throttle body as big as you want, even 100mm, still nothing will be gained. The induction system only flows as well as the smallest point.
    actually, the albow is about 68mm at it's smallest point so that would be the ideal size for the TB. i have run 60mm,65mm and 70mm TB's on my V6 (i sweeped out the elbow with a rotory tool to 70mm to suit). with the 70mm TB the throttle becomes very touchy. great for highway use but a pain in the ass for stop/start traffic use. i now use the 65mm TB with a few mods and find this a good compromise. for FI i will certainly be going back to a 70mm TB

    Quote Originally Posted by soop View Post
    Corrogated pipe work can cause turbulence within the intake. Turbulance can/will slow down the air flow.
    The easier it is for the engine to breath, the more efficiently it will work. In theory, how said theory will function in practice in a 20yr old NA v6 I don't know.
    the factory corrogated plastic intake pipe isn't ideal. some have experimented with mandrel bent SS/alloy intakes. i don't know what sort of results were gained? certainly if it was a big $$$ race engine and every last HP was required it would be a possible upgrade. a nice polished alloy intake does look much better though
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    Quote Originally Posted by immortality View Post
    actually, the albow is about 68mm at it's smallest point so that would be the ideal size for the TB. i have run 60mm,65mm and 70mm TB's on my V6 (i sweeped out the elbow with a rotory tool to 70mm to suit). with the 70mm TB the throttle becomes very touchy. great for highway use but a pain in the ass for stop/start traffic use. i now use the 65mm TB with a few mods and find this a good compromise. for FI i will certainly be going back to a 70mm TB
    Oh, I thought the bellmouth was smaller Nevermind me! lol

    also, awesome posts. rep left.
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    I guess, if you want to be specific and directly to the point.
    You would have to compare the filter surface of each filter on an individual basis.
    Which really makes the Original question imposible to answer.

    It's like asking which apple is best, and not telling us what species they are.

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