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Thread: 3 Different brake rotor choices. Help me decide.

  1. #1
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    Default 3 Different brake rotor choices. Help me decide.

    Ok. Silly us forgot to keep check the brake pads last time we had the front wheels off.

    Anyway, it's gotten to the point where there isn't very much meat left on the pad, so it's starting to grind into the rotor.

    Luckily, the rotor was pretty worn, and was beyond repairing by machining.

    Now, as some of you may know, I drive a VN V6 S-Pack, which comes equipped with the V8 rotors at the front (289MM).

    I've got the choice of 3 different brake rotors;
    1)Standard solid rotors @ $60 each
    2)Slotted rotors @ $120 each
    3)Cross-Drilled and Slotted rotors @ $120 each.

    Which one do you guys recommend, regardless of taking the price into consideration?

    What are the advantages of slotted over solid?
    What are the advantages of Cross-drilled aswell over just slotted?

    These rotors are going to be run in conjunction with some high quality Bendix pads at $85.

    Thanks guys.
    Quote Originally Posted by PaRaDoX View Post
    btw do you plan to fly? looks like you have a gauge for everything, refreshment levels gauge, washer fluid temp? penis pump vacuum? *runs and hides*
    Quote Originally Posted by Not_An_Abba_Fan View Post
    Why is "power" so important? Do you have a little dick?

    People are too obsessed with how much "power" their car makes....it doesn't make power, it produces torque, from which this mythical "power" figure is calculated.

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    Well, for starters dont get Bendix pads, overrated. Secondly, I believe that crossdrilled and slotted chew too mcuh of your pads, leading to replacment sooner. Standard rotors are crap, especially on VN's. I personally would go for a slotted rotor, it lets the gasses out and also lets the water disperse, resulting is better braking.

  3. #3
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    Slotted 4 sure,x drilled are not worth the money,go for them and some feroddo pads for a cheper alternative and braided lines as they reduce the amount of brake fluid being displaced when the brake is applied which improves the overall pedal feel. VT booster upgrade the 1" style always helps too.

    If you got A few extra Dollars You Could go the vt upgrade for 1 step better or cosider the group A vnss style,4 piston AP Racing caliper, PBR Pk Vn full upgrade with twin piston 330mm front calipers and single for the rear impoves better performance,brake response and thermal improvments but you also have options like a r33 4 piston upgrade too.

    The brake upgrade kits are designed to suit 17" or larger wheels.

    Q. Are calipers with more pistons really better?

    A. A single piston caliper has a limited lining surface area. E.g. If the inner pad on a sliding caliper, overhangs the piston by an excessively large amount, then the pad back plate may bend when high pressure is applied to the brakes. Multi piston calipers allow larger lining surface area without excessive overhanging of the pad. Multi piston calipers can usually be designed to provide greater stiffness, which results in improved pedal feel.

    Q. Should you upgrade to multi piston calipers if you upgrade discs?

    A. There are potential advantages to multi piston calipers with larger lining surface areas or lining volumes. However brake balance front to rear must be maintained. Brake balance can be affected by a change in effective caliper bore size but also by a change in rotor diameter and by a change in friction level of the pads.

    Q. Do cross drilled or slotted rotors improve cooling?

    A. Cross drilling or slotted surfaces do not improve cooling greatly. They do, however, assist the removal of gasses produced by the disc pads which in turn reduces the incidence of brake fade.

    PBR Performance
    Cheers.


    * RVN 355 *

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    Quote Originally Posted by Emackulation View Post
    Well, for starters dont get Bendix pads, overrated.
    Ok. I just read around, and it looks like the QFM-HPX pads seem to be the best comprimise between street use, and a bit of racing, and the QFM-A1RM are the best for plain racing

    Quote Originally Posted by Emackulation View Post
    Secondly, I believe that crossdrilled and slotted chew too mcuh of your pads, leading to replacment sooner. Standard rotors are crap, especially on VN's. I personally would go for a slotted rotor, it lets the gasses out and also lets the water disperse, resulting is better braking.
    So you reckon that I should just get the plain slotted rotors?
    Quote Originally Posted by PaRaDoX View Post
    btw do you plan to fly? looks like you have a gauge for everything, refreshment levels gauge, washer fluid temp? penis pump vacuum? *runs and hides*
    Quote Originally Posted by Not_An_Abba_Fan View Post
    Why is "power" so important? Do you have a little dick?

    People are too obsessed with how much "power" their car makes....it doesn't make power, it produces torque, from which this mythical "power" figure is calculated.

  5. #5
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    slotted r the way to go... Heard a few horror stories of drilled rotors cracking due to heat..

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  7. #7
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    AutoPro at Belmore. Why is that cheap or expensive?

    I'll probably be getting cheaper anyway, hopefully. I'll have a talk to my mates at Auto-One, and get a trade price quote for them.

    So what about pads? What pads do you guys think are the best?

    Dad's considering going the QFM-A1RM over the QFM-HPX.

    Only because they're only slightly worse in colder conditions, and they work much better in hotter conditions. But he's hesistant, depend on the price difference.
    Quote Originally Posted by PaRaDoX View Post
    btw do you plan to fly? looks like you have a gauge for everything, refreshment levels gauge, washer fluid temp? penis pump vacuum? *runs and hides*
    Quote Originally Posted by Not_An_Abba_Fan View Post
    Why is "power" so important? Do you have a little dick?

    People are too obsessed with how much "power" their car makes....it doesn't make power, it produces torque, from which this mythical "power" figure is calculated.

  8. #8
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  9. #9
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  10. #10
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    Haydz is offline 346 cu/in
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    haha there is no longer an auto pro in belmore.

    i have the seat cover to prove it HAH.

    on a more serious note they have changed theyre name to auto parts belmore and are located on benaroon road

  11. #11
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    Meh. Whatever it's called.

    Their sign still said AutoPro.
    Quote Originally Posted by PaRaDoX View Post
    btw do you plan to fly? looks like you have a gauge for everything, refreshment levels gauge, washer fluid temp? penis pump vacuum? *runs and hides*
    Quote Originally Posted by Not_An_Abba_Fan View Post
    Why is "power" so important? Do you have a little dick?

    People are too obsessed with how much "power" their car makes....it doesn't make power, it produces torque, from which this mythical "power" figure is calculated.

  12. #12
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    where can i get qfm pads? it is just ordered thru bursons or something?

    their website is under construction so it couldnt tell me much
    "A life lived in fear is a life half lived"

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    Quote Originally Posted by kniever View Post
    where can i get qfm pads? it is just ordered thru bursons or something?

    their website is under construction so it couldnt tell me much
    Clicky --> www.qfmperformance.com
    or --> QFM Brake Pads

    Or PM me. If you buy direct out of QFM you'll be waiting 2-3 months for manufacture as they don't keep any stock of their performance pads. We're a specialised QFM Performance Pads dealer, and that's all we do. We put stock orders 3 months in advance... which becomes a PITA sometimes when you're running low in really popular stuff...
    - GSL RallySport - Ph: 1300 884 836 -
    Sick of paying too much for high performance brake pads? Want high performance and cold bite with low rotor wear?
    - QFM Performance Brake Pads -
    Also specialising in
    - DMS High Performance Shock Absorbers - Monit Rally Computers -

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by crazybiker View Post
    Dad's considering going the QFM-A1RM over the QFM-HPX.

    Only because they're only slightly worse in colder conditions, and they work much better in hotter conditions. But he's hesistant, depend on the price difference.
    The A1RM is still quite a streetable pad. I run them in my daily Cross 6 One Tonner Commodore, and they're fine from dead cold. As you say, the HPX and A1RM have 0.41 and 0.40 cold friction respectively, and that's not even worth worrying about, especially when something like an EBC Green is 0.36 cold, and people still crap on about them...
    - GSL RallySport - Ph: 1300 884 836 -
    Sick of paying too much for high performance brake pads? Want high performance and cold bite with low rotor wear?
    - QFM Performance Brake Pads -
    Also specialising in
    - DMS High Performance Shock Absorbers - Monit Rally Computers -

  15. #15
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    Exactly, that 0.01 of friction is SFA.

    I'll have a word to dad, and try and get him to buy the A1RM pads.
    Quote Originally Posted by PaRaDoX View Post
    btw do you plan to fly? looks like you have a gauge for everything, refreshment levels gauge, washer fluid temp? penis pump vacuum? *runs and hides*
    Quote Originally Posted by Not_An_Abba_Fan View Post
    Why is "power" so important? Do you have a little dick?

    People are too obsessed with how much "power" their car makes....it doesn't make power, it produces torque, from which this mythical "power" figure is calculated.


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