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Thread: Missfiring, stalling and hard to start...?

  1. #1
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    Default Missfiring, stalling and hard to start...?

    Hey everyone, i recently picked up a VP series 2 exec. When i got it it was missfiring a little when idling. I put new plugs and leads in, changed the oil and fuel filter, and changed the oil. It ran ok, same missfire issue though, but recently things have gotten a lot worse. It takes ages to start(have to pump the gas..) it will idle something shocking, and stall in nuetral/park, and when idling in gear, it's makes a loud nocking noise and shudders, but smoothens out fine when your accelerating. I cant quite pick where the noise is coming from, but sometimes it seems it may be coming from underneath, or behind. Im fairly confident that it's not being caused my me changing the filters leads ect, (though im not a mechanic) Im getting a little worried now, as things are getting gradually worse, and this is my only car and really dont have to money to take it to a proffesional to have it looked at. I was thinking about cleaning out the throttle body, and while im at it removing the plastic restricor in the bellmouth, but im pretty sure the problem isnt linked to this. Short of taking to a mechanic, is there anyone outhere who may be able to offer some advice, or even better, live in sydney and would be so kind as to have a look over it for me, i'm know i'm asking a lot, but i really cannot afford any repairs at the moment. Thanks everyone
    Last edited by Daniel.B; 13-02-2009 at 11:10 PM. Reason: spelling error, that's all

  2. #2
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    i dont know about the knocking as it could be anything, or simply happens due to the missfiring problem but sounds like theres too much fuel in the mix, check to see if theres any black smoke coming out of the tailpipe.
    Last edited by Eliminator; 14-02-2009 at 06:04 PM.

  3. #3
    Pub247's Avatar
    Pub247 is offline Donating Member
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    coild packs and dfi module my wagon had the same issue which i didnt fix till the crank angle sensor died. I had some coil packs and dfi i got off a vs at the wreckers got rid of my miss on idle and under load completely. Also it may be worth replacing the CAS if you can afford another $35
    Quote Originally Posted by Smidy
    How many kw would i need to beat vin diesil to the train lines?

  4. #4
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    What does CAS and DFI stand for?? Would be greatly appreciated if you could explain to me a little further. If i get these parts from a wrecker/dismantler, are they relatively easy to re-install? Would re-setting the computer bring any help to the situation, or does the computer update itself regulary..?

  5. #5
    Pub247's Avatar
    Pub247 is offline Donating Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Daniel.B View Post
    What does CAS and DFI stand for?? Would be greatly appreciated if you could explain to me a little further. If i get these parts from a wrecker/dismantler, are they relatively easy to re-install? Would re-setting the computer bring any help to the situation, or does the computer update itself regulary..?

    CAS - Crank angle sensor this is behind your harmonic balancer ( some people call it crank pulley) it read what position the crank is at and tell ecu when to fire hard to start or car suddenly stalls when hot is indicative of failing CAS

    DFI module - Direct Fire ignition module is located under the coils packs (where your leads are) this unit provides the basic power and tells coils to fire from the signal the cas and ecu sends to it

    Get the coils packs and dfi module off a late model commodore up to vy v6 (ecotec) will be fine self serve is your best bet as they can be expensive. CAS your better off buying new tell them exactly which model yours is and have your engine number ready just in case ( get it off rego sticker). DFI module is easy to change with coils still attached there's 3 nuts underneath where it mounts and there is a small bolt that runs through the wiring plug to hold it in place socket set is best for this.

    CAS sensor you need a large socket (27mm i think or some are 1 1/8th inch) and breaker bar (i use a peice of pipe that fits over my rachet about 1m long) wedge it underneath the drivers side of chassis and turn motor over to crack the nut. You'll then need a large claw type puller to go over the balancer to pull it off, dont take the chance you can get it off without it as you more than likely wont. There's usually a plastic cover on later models that you pull off. Take that off and sensor is down the bottom right of timing cover, unplug wiring and 2 bolts and a locating dowel hold sensor in place replace put balancer turn motor by hand check it does not foul on sensor do nut up with some loctits as tight as you can and you should be right to go.

    After you do these (connect battery terminal ) and or remove engine fuse for a little nit then start car
    Last edited by Pub247; 14-02-2009 at 05:34 PM.
    Quote Originally Posted by Smidy
    How many kw would i need to beat vin diesil to the train lines?

  6. #6
    prince_vegeta is offline Powered by Holden
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    Hey man,
    I had a problem like this, does the engine sound as though it is "slapping", ie a loss of compression? Mine did and it turns out the head gasket had been blasted out on the right hand bank. It could also be an exhaust leak somewhere, the best 77 ducats you will ever spend is the joining fee for the NRMA. Do it and call them out, they can diagnose what you cannot and you can set about rectifying it.

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