Results 1 to 16 of 16

Thread: Manual conversion, moving tail staft mount?

  1. #1
    Ride
    Cammed mafless VS Calais 5-speed.

    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    1,030

    Default Manual conversion, tailshaft

    The distance between the splined gearbox output and the tailstaft mount is shorter on manual than auto. Do i have to just use the front half of the manual shaft or what? If so, does the tailshaft need to be balanced again?

  2. #2
    Ride
    VZ R8. VS II L67 M5. VT International Calais L67.

    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    NSW South Coast
    Posts
    937

    Default

    Yes if you seperate the centre uni joint you can just put a manual front half onto it instead. You will also need a different yoke to insert into the manual box as im pretty sure it is different to the auto. If you do this it would be advisable to get it balanced as you will likely end up with a bit of driveline vibration. Idealy would be to source a complete manual tailshaft if possible.

  3. #3
    Ride
    Cammed mafless VS Calais 5-speed.

    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    1,030

    Default

    I do have a complete manual tailshaft, but when i put it in, the mounting holes for the centre uni joint don't line up. If i do line them up, the rear part of the tailshaft is too long to connect to the diff. The only way to do it as is would be to move the mounting bolt holes.

  4. #4
    Ride
    VZ R8. VS II L67 M5. VT International Calais L67.

    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    NSW South Coast
    Posts
    937

    Default

    How far are the mounting holes out by? Do the lengths/mounts work out correct if you were to use the manual front half and auto rear half or use the complete auto tailshaft with the manual yoke on the end?

  5. #5
    Ride
    Cammed mafless VS Calais 5-speed.

    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    1,030

    Default

    Holes are out by about 10cm, don't know if it'd work using the manual front and auto rear, depends where the uni joint splits and what side the mount comes off with. Using the manual yoke on the end of the auto shaft would work. It would mean disassembling the end uni, is that difficult?

  6. #6
    Ride
    VZ R8. VS II L67 M5. VT International Calais L67.

    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    NSW South Coast
    Posts
    937

    Default

    Disassembling a uni joint is not hard if you have a general mechanical knowledge and toolkit. I've done a few of them but rather that type up a huge list of procedures i've just attached this weblink which explains it better than I could have anyway lol.

    DIY: Replacing Universal Joints

    Hope that helps.

  7. #7
    Ride
    Cammed mafless VS Calais 5-speed.

    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    1,030

    Default

    Thanks mate, yeah i'll just change the ends, that way i don't have to get the shaft rebalanced or rephased.

  8. #8
    Ride
    1995 VS Executive

    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    105

    Default

    hey mate,
    im pulling my auto out tomorrow to make way for my manual box and was just woundering if i will need to use the manual stater motor or will the auto one work fine with the manual fly wheel???

    and after reading ur thread was woundering whether u converted a VR or VS ??
    you have me worried that i will run into this same problem of tail shaft bracket not lineing up ..... i have my complete manual shaft so i'm praying mine just lines up haha

    any help would be great
    thanks

    trav

  9. #9
    Ride
    Cammed mafless VS Calais 5-speed.

    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    1,030

    Default

    You will need a manual starter motor. The auto starter motor has a spindle snout that will not clear the bell housing. I converted a VS using a T5 gearbox from a VR.

    The only reason my tailshaft did not line up was because the donor car was a wagon, my car is a sedan. I tried changing the splined gearbox connection, but gave up as i couldn't separate the uni joint. Ended up having to disconnect the CV joint in the middle and swap the front of the manual shaft onto my old auto shaft. Bolted up fine then.

    About one more day i reckon before i can reverse it off the stands! Good luck!

  10. #10
    Ride
    1995 VS Executive

    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    105

    Default

    Awsome thanks mate

    i have started pulling apart the auto today and of course i ran into way more problem that when i pulled apart the manual car ...

    exhaust is out , drive shaft is out and auto is ready for removal but of course the transmittion brackets bolts have decided that only two of them are goin to come out and the other two have rounded on me .... what luck !

    i started cutting one off but now have thought ' how am i goin to get it out when it has no head on it ...

    so pretty much ready to blow my car up and frustration has definatly reached boiling point . haha

    awsome mate let me know when u've got urs up and up and running

  11. #11
    Ride
    Cammed mafless VS Calais 5-speed.

    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    1,030

    Default

    You could weld a spanner onto the rounded bolts.

    I do have a question for ya, when you pulled appart your manual car, what else was there in the gear-shift assembly beside the riveted metal plate, and the two rubber boots? I get the feeling i'm missing something as it looks a little dodgy.

  12. #12
    Ride
    1995 HSV Clubsport T5, 1991 VN Berlina

    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    5,037

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by maldotcom2 View Post
    You could weld a spanner onto the rounded bolts.

    I do have a question for ya, when you pulled appart your manual car, what else was there in the gear-shift assembly beside the riveted metal plate, and the two rubber boots? I get the feeling i'm missing something as it looks a little dodgy.
    what makes you think youre missing something. have you got the big rubber boot that goes onto the big hole in the metal plate and seals around the gearstick?

    1995 Manual HSV Clubsport
    Wade Cam :: 9.2:1 CR :: Pacemaker headers :: Twin 2.5" Exhaust :: VT Brakes
    1991 Supercharged VN Berlina
    9 PSI SC14 Intercooled :: Genie headers :: Twin cats :: HM Twin 2.25 exhaust :: 3.45:1 LSD




  13. #13
    Ride
    VS Commodore

    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    42

    Default

    If your going to start welding spanners onto rounded bolts be careful not to damage the computer....remember the insulation in that area can also be flamable. The easier way if you can try it first is I'm guessing you used a standardard socket on an extention bar to attempt to take the bellhouse bolts out. If they are not damaged to much try a single hex socket. If that doesn't work a hammer and cold chisle may be you only bet. Just remember to leave a bell housing bolt in until you are ready to drop the box. The last thing you want is the torque converter jamming when the box is half hanging out and tranny oil is going all over your driveway....better you than me hope your doing it on a houst and not on your back with stands......

  14. #14
    Ride
    Cammed mafless VS Calais 5-speed.

    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    1,030

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by stocky View Post
    what makes you think youre missing something. have you got the big rubber boot that goes onto the big hole in the metal plate and seals around the gearstick?
    Yes i have that bit, and it looks like it SHOULD seal around that hole, but it's a bit too small and it can fall through the hole. Unless i'm supposed to stretch it over or something? Hence it isn't sealing properly. Is it possible i have a getrag plate and the boot for the T5 is smaller?

  15. #15
    Ride
    1995 HSV Clubsport T5, 1991 VN Berlina

    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    5,037

    Default

    maybe yours has broken with age. check out a photo of it on ebay and compare with yours. a new one costs about $25. they make a huge difference to the amount of road noise you get

    1995 Manual HSV Clubsport
    Wade Cam :: 9.2:1 CR :: Pacemaker headers :: Twin 2.5" Exhaust :: VT Brakes
    1991 Supercharged VN Berlina
    9 PSI SC14 Intercooled :: Genie headers :: Twin cats :: HM Twin 2.25 exhaust :: 3.45:1 LSD




  16. #16
    Ride
    1995 VS Executive

    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    105

    Default

    Ok bolt is out got it out today by grinding two of the sides of the bolt head to a flat 14mm(ish) size then bashed a 14mm spanner on then using a peice of steel pipe as an extension i got the sucker off!!!

    as for the rubber boot you must have the wrong one because it should not be able to fit through the hole ...


    Manual goes in on friday or maybe tomorrow night depending on what time i get home from tafe ..

Similar Threads

  1. VT > VX Tail Light & Garnish Conversion Issues.
    By SuperSixty6 in forum VT - VX Holden Commodore (1997 - 2002)
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 11-02-2009, 05:30 PM
  2. High mount log manifolds VS front mount extractors
    By PaRaDoX in forum V6 Development And Modification
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 04-04-2007, 06:15 PM
  3. WTB: Manual conversion or wrecked vn-vr manual
    By na3point8 in forum Parts And Other Items For Sale
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 13-03-2007, 10:22 PM
  4. Tail Light Conversion
    By JunyaVn in forum VN - VP Holden Commodore (1988 - 1993)
    Replies: 21
    Last Post: 10-06-2006, 12:12 AM
  5. Vp manual conversion and vn auto conversion
    By gumbs in forum VN - VP Holden Commodore (1988 - 1993)
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 01-06-2005, 11:08 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72