The distance between the splined gearbox output and the tailstaft mount is shorter on manual than auto. Do i have to just use the front half of the manual shaft or what? If so, does the tailshaft need to be balanced again?
Yes if you seperate the centre uni joint you can just put a manual front half onto it instead. You will also need a different yoke to insert into the manual box as im pretty sure it is different to the auto. If you do this it would be advisable to get it balanced as you will likely end up with a bit of driveline vibration. Idealy would be to source a complete manual tailshaft if possible.
I do have a complete manual tailshaft, but when i put it in, the mounting holes for the centre uni joint don't line up. If i do line them up, the rear part of the tailshaft is too long to connect to the diff. The only way to do it as is would be to move the mounting bolt holes.
How far are the mounting holes out by? Do the lengths/mounts work out correct if you were to use the manual front half and auto rear half or use the complete auto tailshaft with the manual yoke on the end?
Holes are out by about 10cm, don't know if it'd work using the manual front and auto rear, depends where the uni joint splits and what side the mount comes off with. Using the manual yoke on the end of the auto shaft would work. It would mean disassembling the end uni, is that difficult?
Disassembling a uni joint is not hard if you have a general mechanical knowledge and toolkit. I've done a few of them but rather that type up a huge list of procedures i've just attached this weblink which explains it better than I could have anyway lol.
DIY: Replacing Universal Joints
Hope that helps.
Thanks mate, yeah i'll just change the ends, that way i don't have to get the shaft rebalanced or rephased.
hey mate,
im pulling my auto out tomorrow to make way for my manual box and was just woundering if i will need to use the manual stater motor or will the auto one work fine with the manual fly wheel???
and after reading ur thread was woundering whether u converted a VR or VS ??
you have me worried that i will run into this same problem of tail shaft bracket not lineing up ..... i have my complete manual shaft so i'm praying mine just lines up haha
any help would be great
thanks
trav
You will need a manual starter motor. The auto starter motor has a spindle snout that will not clear the bell housing. I converted a VS using a T5 gearbox from a VR.
The only reason my tailshaft did not line up was because the donor car was a wagon, my car is a sedan. I tried changing the splined gearbox connection, but gave up as i couldn't separate the uni joint. Ended up having to disconnect the CV joint in the middle and swap the front of the manual shaft onto my old auto shaft. Bolted up fine then.
About one more day i reckon before i can reverse it off the stands! Good luck!
Awsome thanks mate
i have started pulling apart the auto today and of course i ran into way more problem that when i pulled apart the manual car ...
exhaust is out , drive shaft is out and auto is ready for removal but of course the transmittion brackets bolts have decided that only two of them are goin to come out and the other two have rounded on me .... what luck !
i started cutting one off but now have thought ' how am i goin to get it out when it has no head on it ...![]()
so pretty much ready to blow my car up and frustration has definatly reached boiling point . haha
awsome mate let me know when u've got urs up and up and running![]()
You could weld a spanner onto the rounded bolts.
I do have a question for ya, when you pulled appart your manual car, what else was there in the gear-shift assembly beside the riveted metal plate, and the two rubber boots? I get the feeling i'm missing something as it looks a little dodgy.
1995 Manual HSV Clubsport
Wade Cam :: 9.2:1 CR :: Pacemaker headers :: Twin 2.5" Exhaust :: VT Brakes
1991 Supercharged VN Berlina
9 PSI SC14 Intercooled :: Genie headers :: Twin cats :: HM Twin 2.25 exhaust :: 3.45:1 LSD
If your going to start welding spanners onto rounded bolts be careful not to damage the computer....remember the insulation in that area can also be flamable. The easier way if you can try it first is I'm guessing you used a standardard socket on an extention bar to attempt to take the bellhouse bolts out. If they are not damaged to much try a single hex socket. If that doesn't work a hammer and cold chisle may be you only bet. Just remember to leave a bell housing bolt in until you are ready to drop the box. The last thing you want is the torque converter jamming when the box is half hanging out and tranny oil is going all over your driveway....better you than me hope your doing it on a houst and not on your back with stands......
Yes i have that bit, and it looks like it SHOULD seal around that hole, but it's a bit too small and it can fall through the hole. Unless i'm supposed to stretch it over or something? Hence it isn't sealing properly. Is it possible i have a getrag plate and the boot for the T5 is smaller?
maybe yours has broken with age. check out a photo of it on ebay and compare with yours. a new one costs about $25. they make a huge difference to the amount of road noise you get
1995 Manual HSV Clubsport
Wade Cam :: 9.2:1 CR :: Pacemaker headers :: Twin 2.5" Exhaust :: VT Brakes
1991 Supercharged VN Berlina
9 PSI SC14 Intercooled :: Genie headers :: Twin cats :: HM Twin 2.25 exhaust :: 3.45:1 LSD
Ok bolt is out got it out today by grinding two of the sides of the bolt head to a flat 14mm(ish) size then bashed a 14mm spanner on then using a peice of steel pipe as an extension i got the sucker off!!!
as for the rubber boot you must have the wrong one because it should not be able to fit through the hole ...
Manual goes in on friday or maybe tomorrow night depending on what time i get home from tafe ..