Air Conditioning Advice

[Z2TT]

T-rex If compressor is not engaging but there is power to the wire for the compressor clutch, it's a problem with the compressor clutch, such as air gap needing adjustment.
Try tap the compressor clutch with a mallet or similar and see if it quickly kicks in. It could also be the clutch coil developing a high resistant causing it not to engage the clutch in this case
you would need a new clutch or clutch coil/magnet assembly.

Patskies ok, The electrics on the VS to describe best is retarded for the A/C.


we have established you have no power to the 10A A/c Fuse this is the cause of the problem. This fuse gets its power
from the "Ignition Relay"

Now Check the following on the "Ignition Relay"

1. does the RED wire on the Ignition relay have power to it?

2. Does the GREY/BLACK wire on the ignition relay get GROUND to it when car is on IGNITION

3. Does the PINK/BLACK wire on the ignition relay have POWER to it on IGNITION.

If answer to all 3 questions is YES cause of no power to 10A A/C Fuse is :

1. Bad Ignition Relay
2. Wiring/bad contact on RED/BLACK wire from ignition relay to 10a a/c fuse.

Check and get back to me.

Also one more thing, I made a mistake on my last post, actually it's not the 7.5A Mirror/Stop lamp relay that needs to be checked.
Correct one is ....... 7.5A TRIP COMPUTER GAUGES WARNING LAMPS ENGINE COOLING FAN THEFT DETTERENT REAR DEMISTER.......... It's Fuse Number 10.

So check that fuse+ those wires on the "Ignition Relay" and get back to me.

[patskies]

Patskies ok, The electrics on the VS to describe best is retarded for the A/C.


we have established you have no power to the 10A A/c Fuse this is the cause of the problem. This fuse gets its power
from the "Ignition Relay"

Now Check the following on the "Ignition Relay"

1. does the RED wire on the Ignition relay have power to it? YES

2. Does the GREY/BLACK wire on the ignition relay get GROUND to it when car is on IGNITION YES

3. Does the PINK/BLACK wire on the ignition relay have POWER to it on IGNITION. NO

If answer to all 3 questions is YES cause of no power to 10A A/C Fuse is :

1. Bad Ignition Relay
2. Wiring/bad contact on RED/BLACK wire from ignition relay to 10a a/c fuse.

Check and get back to me.

Also one more thing, I made a mistake on my last post, actually it's not the 7.5A Mirror/Stop lamp relay that needs to be checked.
Correct one is ....... 7.5A TRIP COMPUTER GAUGES WARNING LAMPS ENGINE COOLING FAN THEFT DETTERENT REAR DEMISTER.......... It's Fuse Number 10. FUSE FINE AND GETTING POWER

So check that fuse+ those wires on the "Ignition Relay" and get back to me.

Pink wire has no power

[Z2TT]

Ok,

This is the problem, Ignition relay not engaging because Pink wire has no power.

This pink wire goes from the relay to the 7.5A (fuse No 10), and this fuse has power, so the problem lies in
bad contact somewhere along that wire, I have found Commodore VS have a high occurrence of bad contacts in the crimped
sections of the wires I don't know why. So now you have to try bring power to that wire.

Try strip a section of that wire, and use a test light and on that stripped section, does it have power on Ignition?
If yes then it is the actual connection where it connects to the relay is bad.

If it doesn't have power by testing a stripped section of the wire, then you can either

1. Find out where it's losing power and fix it, this will be difficult

or

2. Bring a Power source (only power on ignition) to that wire from a wire that is normally powered on Ignition, so for example
you can bring the power source FROM :

PINK/Black wire from the EFI Relay, as this wire has power on ignition.

Do those things and let me know what happens.

[patskies]

i wont be blowing fuses if i wire it from another source?

[Z2TT]

So long as you give it Power and not ground, I don't see how it could blow a fuse.
Try it out and let's see if it solves the problem.

But like I said, the wire going to the Ignition Relay could be losing contact right at the end (where it goes on the pin of the relay)
So you have to check that that is not the issue.

[patskies]

the pink wire has no power with key on acc, but has power when key is on the 'on' position... all wires from the relay have power and the ground is grounded properly

[Z2TT]

Ok well it should be tested on Ignition, so it has power which is good.
Have you established that the Relay is in good working condition?

E.g Try another relay in the "Ignition Relays" place so long as it's the same type of relay.

Alternatively to rule out a bad relay what you could do is is

- With a piece of wire bridge the RED and RED/BLACK wires on the Ignition Relay. If you've ruled out that it's not a faulty relay, let's keep on working through this, because
it's the Ignition Relay that forwards the power to the 10A Auto AC Fuse, which you mentioned earlier you had no power on :

Ok so we have established that ALL YOUR FUSES ARE GOOD
POWER IS GETTING TO THE IGNITION RELAY, let me know if your Ignition Relay is fine.

Now, Just to confirm you have no power at your 10A Auto AC Fuse, is this correct?

If That is correct the cause is either :

1. Ignition Relay bad, not giving power from Red wire to Red/Black, rule this out by joining Red and Red/Black with a piece of wire, DOES DOING THIS BRING POWER TO THE 10A AUTO AC FUSE

2. There is a wiring fault and a bad connection in the RED/BLACK wire from the Ignition Relay to the 10A A/C Fuse.

[showtime]

Ok I read 13 pages but I'm nearly asleep, Forgive me if someone has answered my questions in the last 3 pages.

Car: VS Calais SeriesII
Climate Control Problems: #1 air not moving from feet to head consistently (stays mostly at feet) #2 get heat comming from centre console on drivers side, plastic is hot to touch (not all the time but alot of the time, even when temp is set to lowest and A/C is on) #3 my engine revs do not pick up when the compressor kicks in, revs drop and fans kick in, Is this normal or should the revs pick up to compensate?

I'm thinking I have more than one problem her but didn't know if replacing the vacuum switches(solenoid) would fix both problem 1&2 or is the heater tap controlled by a separate set of valves

[fademan]

Hi all,

New to the forums - I have the same problem as #1 above (ShowTime).

The aircon periodically is stuck on feet. I can't get it to blow through the front (face) vents consistantly.
I've checked the vacuum hose, and it was sucking air when I checked. I'm not sure if the vacuum is being lost in heat / movement, or something else is the problem.

A number of people have posted the identical problem, but I couldn't find an answer.

Help please?

[11gothevt11]

Hi all,

New to the forums - I have the same problem as #1 above (ShowTime).

The aircon periodically is stuck on feet. I can't get it to blow through the front (face) vents consistantly.
I've checked the vacuum hose, and it was sucking air when I checked. I'm not sure if the vacuum is being lost in heat / movement, or something else is the problem.

A number of people have posted the identical problem, but I couldn't find an answer.

Help please?

Very easy to fix but it will only be on the face vents all the time

Remove plastic side panel on the left....
You will see this in under the radio
Look under there and move the vent swicth
You will see something moving there just dissconnect that
Than you can move that manualy to all differant vent just swicth it to face vent than its on face vent all the time
But mind you when i first done this is was working fine on face vent all the time when driving
But when i turned off car it went to differant vents
But that was when i first done it over 12 months ago after one month it stayed on face vent all the time...So last 11 months its been on face vent no problems
Hope this helped someone out there

[Sprog]

Can anyone tell me where the vac line to the heater tap comes from?

[Frase61]

when i have the either the heater or aircon on when i accelerate medium to fast the air that blowes into your face or whatever other setting you had it on changes to blowing on you foot.The controls arnt moving it just changes direction automatically. Then to get it back to the original setting you have to back the car right off. Also it changes when you just have the ignition starts of on the setting that you want the changes to blowing on your feet. I hope that makes sense. Any ideas of what could be. Thanks

Slap the left side of your console (hard) there is dust in the vaccume ports will do as a quick fix for about 15 mins

[Jaymz]

Quick question:

I am pretty sure there is no gas in my air con system (i pressed down on one of the valves for the ac and only a small faint sound of gas came out) Would this stop the compressor engaging? If i turn the AC on, the lights come on, but the compressor doesnt make a sound?

I figured it was due to it being out of gas (the car had been sitting for a while before i checked the AC and then found it out of gas).

[Harvs82]

Yep... not enough gas or no gas will cause the compressor not to operate... basically it is a failsafe so your compressor doesn't pack it in, as the gas has lubricating oil in it too. If you are out of gas then you have a leak which you'll need to sort out before even going any further.

Common places include the connections on the compressor itself, or the old evaporator, which is a dash out job, and very expensive...

Quick question:

I am pretty sure there is no gas in my air con system (i pressed down on one of the valves for the ac and only a small faint sound of gas came out) Would this stop the compressor engaging? If i turn the AC on, the lights come on, but the compressor doesnt make a sound?

I figured it was due to it being out of gas (the car had been sitting for a while before i checked the AC and then found it out of gas).

[Jaymz]

Yep... not enough gas or no gas will cause the compressor not to operate... basically it is a failsafe so your compressor doesn't pack it in, as the gas has lubricating oil in it too. If you are out of gas then you have a leak which you'll need to sort out before even going any further.

Common places include the connections on the compressor itself, or the old evaporator, which is a dash out job, and very expensive...

Sweet, thanks for clearing that up for me. I will drop the car off at the local AC place and get them to pressure test the system and see if there are any leaks. If there are leaks and stuff then I will simply remove the AC from the car. I don't plan on selling the car any time soon, and it means i can rip out the compressor and put in a shorter belt (don't really use AC much over here in NZ anyway)

[aussie4life11]

Hey guys, i have a problem with my vr v6. i checked the aircon relay under the bonnet last night and relay fried so i replaced it with another one that i know was working. still nothing. what could this be. lines still have gas in them... Help plz cos its summer and ive got alot of driving to do comeing up real soon

[immortality]

check the fuse as well

[Jonah 101]

I bought my car in August and the A/C worked fine, I used it for a couple of minutes every week to lube the seals. Now it doesnt work :/

I hate it when you try look after something and it fails!

[Ghost]

Ok Jonah have it regassed and run it for at least 10 minutes not 2 lol also you need to do it in winter as well

[Jonah 101]

Thanks healthsydm, but where did the gas go is what I would like to know.

from what im told you cant just re-gas it.

[mr031]

just a note on the leaking evaps, i stock a product from wurth that seals up small leaks that i add to a regas, works most of the time, and alot cheaper than the dash out job. hope this can help someone.

[Jonah 101]

Ah okay I will look into that, bloody tipical. A/C dies right as summer starts...............

[W4L3SY]

hey guys,
of recent, my a/c compressor seems to be slowing down after about 30 seconds of being turned on, and by slowing down i mean it will do one full revolution to approx five full revolutions of the ac belt, and then stops blowing cool air, i have checked the belt tension, that is fine.
the clutch is engaging correctly.

Any help would be great!

Thanks in advance

[Z2TT]

Can be clutch slipping if the air gap is too excessive, there is washers that can be removed between the clutch and pulley to alter the air gap.

Also compressor can be locking up internally intermittently causing it to spin slower.

[VR38]

Can anyone suggest a reliable A/C guy in Sydney to help diagnose some A/C problems, seem to be getting dicked around by the few locals I have tried out south west.