Here are some known problems
#1.. The liquid lines at the reciever drier seize onto to the reciever drier. Replacement of the liquid line from the reciever drier to the tx valve. Or the replacement of the condensor or both. Approx. $190 - $500 gassed
#2.. Discharge hose leaking. Hose from the compressor to the condensor. Approx $200 gassed
#3.. Tx valve leaking. Small valve that regulates the gas flow. Approx. $200
#4.. Evaporator leaking. Behind the dash. (Dash out 10 hours) Approx $850
#5.. Condensor leaks. Normally top left hand side. Approx $500
#6.. Liquid line leaking at P' Clamp on condensor. Approx $190
#7.. Compressor leaking or self distructing. Approx $1200
#8.. Leaking Heater tap. Causes loss of cooling. Approx $60
#9.. Heater tap staying on. Vacuum switch problem. Approx $50
#10.. leaking on floor. Drain tube blocked. Approx. $20 for deblocking
These are the most common problems I get with the A/c system on VR-S Commodores.
Don't be too scared of the problems, just be aware of them and that The A/c does NOT just need "re-gassing" it WILL have a problem.
Regards Guy.
120 in a 100 zone.....Sorry officer....I thought you where trying to give my wife back!!!!
Just out of interest how much water should be coming out of the A/C system after a drive and using the climate control. It's just that lately ive noticed a fair bit of water and if I park it in the garage then its gonne make a mess without a drip tray or rags underneath it.
Part of an A/c's job is to not only remove the heat from the cabin but to also remove the moisture. If the days are very humid then you will get heaps of water draining out of the drain tube.
But bear in mind that if the a/c is a little too cool then the evap may be freezing up slightly and this can cause a lot of water to drain once the system is turned off.
The other problem can be a slightly blocked up drain tube, this makes the water build up (especially on humid days) and when the car is parked it just runs out over time. There for BIG puddle.
One thing to be warned about is to look out for any signs of green in the water. This can be a sign that the heater core is leaking.
Most cars will drain for about 5-10 minutes after the a/c is turned off and the water is just a sign that the a/c is working well.
Sorry can't tell you how much is normal because all cars vary somewhat and again it depends highly on weather the day is humid and if you run the a/c on inside air flow (recirculate) or outside (fresh).
Regards Guy.
120 in a 100 zone.....Sorry officer....I thought you where trying to give my wife back!!!!
I take it then if you are running the fresh air there would be more water because the air will be warmer than outside, than if it has already been cooled and circulated before hand??
Yes the air is warmer outside than the recirculated air inside (thats why the A/c does not work so hard when in the recirc mode) but the other thing is that the a/c has already taken out most of the moisture in the cabin air. The air outside, on humid days, is moisture laiden...thus more water from the drain tube.
Regards Guy.
120 in a 100 zone.....Sorry officer....I thought you where trying to give my wife back!!!!
Hi I have a VS SII Calais with a air cond/climate control problem when you press the on/auto button it doesn't always come on then 2 minutes or longer it will come on by its self I think it might be in the switch or in the fan speed resistor any help would be great
Cheers
Just to help a little...does the airconditioner pump cut in straight away or not?
Guessing that the blower fan is not operating for this first two minutes!
Is that the only thing that does not operate when this happens?
Does it operate OK if you turn the a/c off wilst the car is running and then turn it back on?
Does the a/c work OK when it is running...e.g. cold and vents operating correctly?
Regards Guy.
120 in a 100 zone.....Sorry officer....I thought you where trying to give my wife back!!!!
Hi Guy
Thanks for your prompt reply every thing else in the car works ok when it works it is cold . Tonight we went out started the car put air con on nothing happened screen is blank press the auto/on button several time then let it alone drove for 20min before it came on by its self coming home it took 15min before it came on occasionally but rarely does it come on straight away. Pump and fan start straight away when it comes on if you turn it off when the car is running some times it works some times it doesn't and when I bang the console it doesn't make any difference
Cheers
Fixed : It was a dodgy Relay in engine bay
Last edited by hjmonaro; 31-07-2008 at 03:52 PM.
Sounds like it might be one of the change over relays.(accessory relay maybeor warning lamp check relay)....will see if I can get my wiring diagram book back over the weekend and try and work it out for you.
Regards Guy
120 in a 100 zone.....Sorry officer....I thought you where trying to give my wife back!!!!
Hi,
I noticed you said that if there is green in the water then the heater core could be leaking. I have a problem where green water comes out into the drivers side when doing left turns, i pulled my dash out to have a look, and the pic attached is what i saw.
What does it normally take to fix something like this? and should i get it fixed immediately?
Thanks.
I have a VR Statesman that used to get a foul smell coming out of the vents. The air-con also died about the same time. The smell was very similar to the oil in the air-con system and contant re-gassing of the system proved to be a waste of time. I then pulled out the dash and heater box and there was the problem, a very ugly looking evaporator with bubbles in the alloy. Problem solved. This would've cost a fortune if a mechanic did the job.
I have exactly the same problem with my VS Executive where the air con (including fan blower) doesn't come on straight away and then will come on 15 minutes or so later on it's own.
Did you end up finding a solution? It's driving me mad!
Email me please - glenn@slender.mine.nu
Thanks
Here's a solution I performed today -
1. Remove the cover from the relay box in the engine bay
2. Unclip the relay assembly from the body (2 clips in the middle)
3. Locate the "Ignition" relay and remove it
4. Unclip the black/grey wire from the relay housing and solder a wire to it.
5. Clip the connector back into the relay housing and insert the relay
6. Remove the relay that is next to the "ignition" relay
7. Unclip the black wire from the relay housing under this relay and solder the other end of the free wire you soldered previously to it.
8. Clip the connector back into the relay housing and insert the relay
9. Push the relay assembly back onto the body
10. Re-fit the relay box cover
FIXED!!!!!
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This is for a previous question posted here, sorry been away for a while
Two options, BIG job and Not recommended job.
The only correct option if the heater core is leaking it to take the whole dash out, about two days work.
The other option is to take the bits of ducting and trim from under the drivers side foot area and cut the pipes from the old heater corre and do the same with the new one and then flare the ends of the pipes and fit a hose btween the pipes. The reason this is not recommended or done normally is that the hose can get a leak in it and spray boiling water over you feet wilst driving.....but it does save about a day and a half work.
Sorry did not get a look at picture...could not locate it.
Hope this helps....regards Guy.
120 in a 100 zone.....Sorry officer....I thought you where trying to give my wife back!!!!
Not sure if this is the same problem as I have with my VR. A/C works fine, but sometime a musty smell comes though the vents. One way I have found to solve the problem momentarily is to switch between the recycle vent and the fresh air vent. Usually good for at least 5 minutes, then the smell comes back. Hoping to find away to fix the problem permanently.Originally Posted by pest
Glen 20 (not the hospital one though for obvious reasons)
Turn the flap to inside air (recirc) remove the glove box and spray the glen 20 behind the glovebox area. This will get rid of any "bugs" the system may have causing the smell.
If it is the oil from the a/c system then the only option isd to remove the evap and replace it.
Regards guy
120 in a 100 zone.....Sorry officer....I thought you where trying to give my wife back!!!!
Now that I am running the air con more often and longer, it seem the musty smell is the oil from the a/c system. How do I check the evaportor for damage, more importantly where is it located and how do I get to it ?Originally Posted by gsmrobinson
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and the a/c dosent work i turn it on and it starts off cool and 5 seconds later it starts to blow heat wat the **** is going on please help
think carefully about repairing climate control air con in vr commodores, you open up a can of worms and the cost can escalate very quickly $1500 dollars was eaten up fast this was using after market parts holden parts would have been a telephone number job my two cents
when i have the either the heater or aircon on when i accelerate medium to fast the air that blowes into your face or whatever other setting you had it on changes to blowing on you foot.The controls arnt moving it just changes direction automatically. Then to get it back to the original setting you have to back the car right off. Also it changes when you just have the ignition starts of on the setting that you want the changes to blowing on your feet. I hope that makes sense. Any ideas of what could be. Thanks
I think its a vacuum problem. Check your lines...
--1995 VS Commodore Executive-- Stock as a rock! lol.<br>
Hey in my Vs exec my the selector of my air con region selector does not work any more, after i put a new deck in my car it stopped working. I can't see a problem with the vacuum hoses. the air only comes out in the footwells. I dont really need it right now but it is just a pain. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Cheers
My VS climate control does not work. It worked when I first bought the car then about 3 months later the climate control unit started flashing when it was on, the the fan was cutting in and out too. Now nothing works.......its either full on 24/7 or not at all which can only be stopped by taking out the circut breaker. A guy I work with join 2 wires at the back of the control unit in the dash and all was good. We have searched for a loose wire or something to that effect but nothing was found. Can some one please help me I got no air and no heat which really sux when it rains because the car fogs up and I cannot see shit.
Any Ideas please help or email me @ dananjen@bigpond.net.au![]()
Hi Guys, Great thread. Have prob with VN Air. One day I started the car and No Go. Was perfect day before. Fan still works, but when you have accessories on and Air Con button on nothing works. You are sure to know this is not normal. It does not work even when car is running. Comp does not "kick in". I am a car audio tech and have a fair bit of knowledge of cars. Have tested all fuses and relays, checked all wiring and connectors and no good. Does the resistors in the wiper panle have any bearing on this problems. I drive the car 2 hrs to work everyday and would love my air back.....Please Help.
Cheers Malcolm
anyone know how much more fuel using the A/C uses?