Now I've been useing some K-Mart coolant (about $5 for 4ltrs), and while it seems to be keeping my system clean, I have a lot of problems with leaks. I replaced the radiator a year ago (with a new SSS) and that has started leaking (although I think its faulty and not corrosion). I also noticed it has corroded my year old thermostate houseing (at the thermostate bypass hole) to a point were I now have to use sealant otherwise it'll leak.
Now is cheap coolant, such as the one I've been using, just a waste of time? Whats your experiences with coolant, and can you mix similar coolants??? Cheers.
DONT Mix coolants EVER, I always do a full flush if using different coolants (even a different batch), I've heard some nasty stories of mixing coolants, and it really isnt a long job to flush so why not.
Personelly I refuse to use cheap coolant and only use Genuine Holden Coolant, but I get it at Trade price otherwise Free, otherwise its quite expensive, but I wouldnt bother until you sorted your leak anyway.
I have found helpful info here: Tectaloy - Cool Solutions
"Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm" Sir Winston Churchill.
My VS II Berlina Wagon
MY12 II SV6 Sportwagon
$5 for 4 litres, thats cheaper than drinking water
the stuff you put in is rubbish. it has no anti-freeze/antiboil properties, little corrosion protection and will just evaporate over time anyway.
that said however, it wouldn't have corroded your thermo housing, virtually impossible to do such damage in such little time. do you have a gasket between the block and the thermostat housing?
as mentioned above. buy a good nulon/castrol/holden etc. concentrate coolant. flush your system completely, add the coolant and bleed the system of air. and don't bother doing any of this until you sort out your radiator issues.
I use the concentrate, seems more expensive to buy it by the 4L bottles.
Yes I have a gasket between thermostate houseing and the block. Maybe its just a shit quality housing (from sprints).
So what you guys are saying is all good, but have you's ever used poor coolant which caused problems? Of course $40 a bottle coolant is better, but its not like I need anti-freeze etc...
Edit: FYI, this is what I've been using... Forlife TCP Formula X33
http://www.tectaloy.com/images/docum...f7da5b7b64c2c3
no need to click on the link, the price of the stuff says it all... it probably tastes good tho
lose the housing and get a genuine one from the wreckers... clean it up, new gasket, loctite on the bolts and you'll have no issues (not sure why you bought an aftermarket one in the first place)
the poor coolant won't necessarily cause you problems (short term that is) but you'd want to have antiboil/antifreeze properties... the sh*t your putting in will boil all the time and you'll just keep losing it through evaporation (what i've seen happen in the past, someone correct me if i'm wrong). the good stuff has additives that are good for your cars insides aswell.
so no, it won't cause you problems... but long term it will. it dont have adequate corrosion properties.
don't be a tightass... for the sake of your motor get your leaks and radiator sorted out and spend 40 bucks on proper coolant concentrate.
you may be ok for now but summer wont be as forgiving...
p.s. i'm not trying to sound like a prick, i'm just trying to give you a wake up call... treat your car good and it will treat you good... you might save 35 bucks on coolant, but could cost you thousands in manifold/head gaskets etc. in the future
sorry to interrupt but is it possible for coolant to come out of wht look like a little bleeder? there are no leaks in my raidator or overflow or anything, my mate said it could be doing that because its ovrefull?
oh coolant can react with each other as the other bloke said dont mix, flush it
it is possible... its supposed to do that when opened, obviously not when closed.
1) if the bleeder is loose, tighten it up (clockwise with screw driver)
2) if it still leaks, get a new bleeder valve from the wreckers and replace yours
3) if it STILL leaks, get a thermostat housing from the wreckers and replace yours
(some form of leak proof product pasted on the thread of the valve wont hurt either)
ok thanks heaps.
i have used the wrong wording, if you look underneath the car infront of the front wheel there is a little hose just hanging there that is where coolant is coming out its not a bleeder my mistake, sorry
no sweat, sounds like your talking bout the overfill hose that is attached to the reservoir bottle.
if coolant is coming out of there, you either have too much coolant/water in it (should be sitting at where its marked "MAX"), or u haven't bleed your system (got all the air out of the engine/radiator/hoses etc.)
i havent had it all that long but i know it had a new radiator and flushed like a month before i got it so yeah.
but that is exactly what im talking about, i check everything when the motors cold two times a week, i always have the reservoir at max or just under, but the other day i filled it up and i went over max by like 1/4 of a cm over the max. i didnt think anything would happen though. owell thats what happend and you solved it for me.
i have to ask though, do i have to do anything due to the fact that she is still a little hot and i gotta go out soon?
thanks mate your a champ
haha not quite mate, 1/4 cm over max aint gonna cause that... you'd have to pretty much fill the thing to the top for it to come out of that hose.
sounds more like you got air trapped in your system, sort it out asap, but should be fine to drive tonight... just keep an eye on your temp gauge in case
Once you get your leaks sorted out, stick with the genuine Holden Coolant concentrate, and make sure you stick with the 50 / 50 mix of concentrate and water. Using anything else or premixed coolants is just going to cause problems. The old ecotec V6 runs pretty hot, and it also requires good strong corrosion inhibitors...
In my VS Berlina I only used the genuine coolant right from the word go, changed the coolant and thermostat every two years without fail. After 12 years and 196,000km the only part in the cooling system that was changed was the water pump, at 190,000km and that was due to a bearing failure. Radiator, all hoses, heater core etc were all original when I sold the car. For me, using the genuine coolant speaks for itself with the above results.
Repco or Nulon concentrates are pretty good, both around $35 for 5 litres and you can get them anywhere
PERFORMANCE MODS- JTG Liquid injection, Under driven pulley, Pacemaker extractors, 3" X-force system, Cold air intake, MAF Less tune 267.9 RWKW'S
http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/...ber-007-a.html
Yes I know, if you get anymore manly you are in danger of making yourself pregnant!
Found some usefull info here ... http://www.tectaloy.com/images/docum...fo%20Book4.pdf
Looks like I should be useing something like TECTALOY 90 PLUS http://www.tectaloy.com/images/docum...%20COOLANT.pdf
At $20/4lts its a step up from what I've been useing. Maybe I'll give it a go after I finish fixing all the leaks. It meets the same specs as the holden coolant as far as I can see.
That is another good question. I have always used the pellets from holden when replacing coolant. The one time I did not my water pump blew up about 3 months later.
Then I read another thread on here recently that said you don't need them anymore because they are already in the coolant.
I still don't know what the truth is !!!![]()
Yes, I did use the 'coolant pellets' the first few times I changed the coolant, and then I didn't bother with them for years afterwards with no troubles at all. I consider 12 years and 190 odd thousand km a fair innings for a water pump anyway....
I should clarify it was the bearing seal that failed too, not the actual bearing itself. I've read many different views on the coolant pellets though, people say they aren't necessary and that they are a carry over from the VN days when the pumps used to leak all the time, and others still believe they are required... Each to their own I guess!
You can't even buy demineralised/distilled water for the same price as that coolant.
If you can't buy the water for that price, im not sure how you could assume the coolant is any goodIts probably tap water with some dye in it
![]()