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Thread: VS Berlina 6Pak with brake/suspension issues

  1. #1
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    Angry VS Berlina 6Pak with brake/suspension issues

    Hey to all,

    New to the site and really need a hand diagnosing some problems with my series 1 VS Berlina. Me >>

    The problem is that I just rebuilt the brakes (DBA Slotted and Ventilated Rotors, Ferodo pads), and the hubs on the front end, and over the last week or so she has been shaking really badly. Once there is some heat in the braking system, a touch of the brakes sends the steering wheel, sun visor, anything really shaking and it just keeps getting worse the further I drive. If it makes a difference, if I really get on the piks, the shuddering stops.

    Also, the bolt at the top of my drivers side strut tower (Big one in the engine bay) doesn't budge, however the one on the passanger side just spins if you apply some hand pressure. Could this have anything to do with my shaking issue?

    Any help would be really appreciated.

  2. #2
    ephect's Avatar
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    i would say that ur one (or both) of your front rotors have developed heat spots and have warpped. the reason i say this even though your rotors are new, its only when the rotors heat up that you experience the shaking.
    To add to this, i would speculate that ur tie rods and rack ends could do with replacing also, but that is only due to the age of the car and can also cause a shaking within the steering, but not as severe as what you have described.

    i would grab a breaker bar and tighten up the shocker nut on the passenger side before heading out. it shouldnt go anywhere cos there is another nut below it, but u want all ur suspension parts nice n tight.
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    Quote Originally Posted by JEZIMP View Post
    jsut quickly, wat is a ffs search, ive seen it a fair bit and not sure wat it is, so some help would b greatly appreciated on where and how to do it, thankz
    Quote Originally Posted by vcstarfirequeen View Post
    its a 5 stud and u couldnt just weld a new stud on youd have to weld 5 new ones on i may be blonde but im not dumb

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  3. #3
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    Ok, update.

    I just checked and cleaned both brake rotors, and lightly rubbed back all 4 pads with some light emery paper. I also bled all the brakes, bar the rear right. I thank the clown who last owned my car for totally rounding off the nut on the bleed valve. The brake pedal feels far more responsive, and doesn't pulsate now, but the steering wheel is still shaking away. I also tightened all the strut tower bolts, but the passenger side bolt (big one on top of the tower) is still spinning.

    As for heat spots on the rotors, i really wouldn't be suprised, or happy. I did smash a massive puddle of water during recent floods which emersed the front end, and to my knowledge if metal is cooled too quickly, it stays as is. Also tore my serpentine belt to shit.

    Thanks for the reply, and more help would be wikd

  4. #4
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    ephect is offline Donating Member
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    ok ur passenger side nut; Does the nut itself spin? or is the nut tight and the whole thing spins? if the whole thing spins, it sounds like the second nut, which cant be seen unless the strut is removed is loose.

    i would say ur new rotors are screwed, dont know if its the same in all states as VIC but u could 'sue' the council for damages caused by the pothole. did u happen to get pics of the pothole u hit? i dont know enough about metal to agree or disagree with ur theory but it sounds ok.
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    Quote Originally Posted by JEZIMP View Post
    jsut quickly, wat is a ffs search, ive seen it a fair bit and not sure wat it is, so some help would b greatly appreciated on where and how to do it, thankz
    Quote Originally Posted by vcstarfirequeen View Post
    its a 5 stud and u couldnt just weld a new stud on youd have to weld 5 new ones on i may be blonde but im not dumb

    Wanted: VR/VS Standard Rear Bumper Bar - Can be damaged - PM me if you have one

  5. #5
    DannyboyDS is offline Just hand me the pliers.
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    I have read on these forums a few times that shaking can also develop when fitting new rotors if they are not correctly fitted, you will have to do a search but apparantly they only fit one way correctly.

    I.E five holes, five studs, five ways it can fit per side, I think a caliper gauge is used, just repeating what I remember, hope you get it sorted.

  6. #6
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    After bleeding the brakes, it seems far better, just gotta fix and bleed the back right hand side now. The old fluid looks pretty gnarly, so could be the problem. As for sueing the council, i'd be lucky to see 50 cents, this is the logan city council were talkin bout. Lol. If only they had lighting on that corner of the road, I could of seen the puddle (Read, small lake!).

    That nut on top of the strut tower doesn't spin by the way, only the entire assembally goes around, and around, and around, yea u get my drift.

  7. #7
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    When you are trying to tighten the nut are you holding a 15/16 spanner on the big nut and tightening the 10mm nut on the shaft to tighten it ? if you are not using 2 spanners it will spin as you described. or maybe your rubber strut top is rooted and the steel tube in the centre has de-bonded from the rubber.
    Did you also regrease the slide pins in the callipers while they were apart ? this can cause shaking too.

  8. #8
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    Sure was, but she's locked tight and still spins. I'll have to tear out the strut and have a look. As for regreasing the slide pins, they were done when the pads and discs were replaced, but it might be worth regreasing them. Any help is awesome. Thanx All

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