Just a random question for all VS 6 pak owners regarding engine oil. What have you found to be a good quality oil? Just for reference, mine has 220 xxx thou on the clock
Personally, I've run a few..
1- Castrol GTX-3, Proved to be too thin and oil consumption was pretty high, due to my motor being a series 1, therefore 'loose'
2- Valvoline Engine Armour, A good all round oil, quite thick but got contaminated really fast
3- Penrite HPR 15, Best of the bunch i've found so far, she uses hardly any oil and runs like a dream, still taps away but.
Also, can anyone suggest a good quality oil filter to run on my little ecotec? I've just been running ryco items.
As you have found , you need at least 20W50 oil to slow down the oil consumption. Forget about any 10W40, 15W40 etc.
by the way, there are loads of threads on these topics already , and there's an oil filter thread raging at the moment so i'm not touching that Q.
Thanx for that info, will do a search on these threads. Can a moderator or someone close this topic? Thanks
i use mobile 1 5w50 it hasnt used and oil and runs perfectly i had a look under my rocker covers and its spotless totally clean, im very happy with it and i use a ryco oil filter they do the job fine for a stock N/A engine
Currently we have 3 ecotechs (1vs, 2 vts) all now running HPR 15 with AC Delco filters.
VT - 265,000+kms - Absolutly loves penrite, doesnt make a single rattle, doesnt use any oil, also oil always comes out with a little bit of colour in it after 10,000km's.
VS - 225,000+km's - Works great with penrite, doesnt appear to be using any except the bees dick thats leaking out the sump washer (replacing next oil change).
VT - 175,000+km's - Make a rattle on startup, but also this leaks a shit load, its mums partners car and he refuses to fix it properly, so not my problem.
From using the same oil on 3 engines the same, just different Km's all I can think of is either HPR15 is more suited to higher km cars, or the leaks are also effecting the oil pressure, which is most likely aswell.
use desiel oil, ive heard it works a treat with commodores with 220,000km's
Vortech V1 supercharger : 10psi : Intercooled : 3.89 Mini-spool : VT Big Brake conversion : Shift kitted auto : B&M Shifter
My VS CLUBBY!
237.2RWKW - 318.1HP - 926.4 NM
if you like penrite and you need 20w or above. Penrite HPR30 is your answer, its 20W-60 and its also my favorite oiltop notch stuff.
What does the 20W 60 stuff cost you for a bottle?
Yeah, about $35. But that's standard for decent quality mineral oil anyway. It'll definitely be cheaper than the HPR15 anyway, because that's semi-syn.
LOL, good idea Tom. At the rate my ecotec uses oil the 20L would be great. I'm a little edgy about using HPR30 through winter tho, may be a little thick, but its great in summer,even for track days !!
Best oils for your car with those Symptoms are Shell Helix Plus 15w50 High Mileage as its still thin, then use Pennzoil High Mileage or Valvoline Maxlife. These oils contain the Synthetic Esters in them for seal conditioning, and more additives and robust base stock to reduce wear and oil consumption.
As previously mentioned, give Repco Diesel 15w40 (rebottled Mobil Delvac MX) or Caltex Delo 400 Multigrade a shot. 2 of the best oils ever made and all time favorites. Engine noise can be caused by many things, thicker oil, thinner oil, changing to thinner more robust oil can make it go or away or lessen it. Thicker oils tend to mask the noise, not necessarily fix the issue. The thicker oils strength lay in the film strength, that governs the cushion of oil in the bearings at around 150 degrees and less tendency to leak as its thicker when cooler and slows drips. But newer slightly thinner synthetic/blend oils are coming near and matching the thicker oils when it comes to film strength with gains of fuel economy, power and freer revving etc. Its rated via a CPa figure. If 12 or 15(cant remember) is the rating of absolute zero wear, which no operational oil has reached yet, and the ACEA i think put the minimum requirement for Euro oils to have a CPa figure of 3.5, most new synthetic/mineral 5w40 and above meet this. A 10w40 is around 4, 20w50 for example has around 5 or so, so on a scale, the protection is not dramatic. This is only relative to the oil itself, there are additives which also do protecting to cover these areas. So some thinner oils can still protect as well as a thicker oil, but mainly in the higher quality oils. Something to think about.
Posessed 95- Your oil choice No.2 is a good one also, it only got contaminated faster because it cleaned better than the others, or acted more aggressively in replacing whatever left over oil was there before. Its like a piece of bread, wipe on the margerine, then put on the vegamite, the vegamite replaces the margerine on the surface and takes it up, same thing with oil when a different brand is used. It can also lead to more burning of the oil this process.
i run Pheonix 5w60(synth)...run like a dream...less noise...as far as i know it can't be bought retail...i get from my mech and put it in myself...it's thin but so is holden oils traditionally and no probs with leaks or oil drop...nor does it burn away
VRCITY
its not like we're discussing which oils burn away and which ones dont, no oil should burn away... its the car thats burning it.
Mods need to close this thread, its been hijacked into "my oil is better than yours because.."
What are you on about ? All oils have a flash point, it has to burn at some point. Its the condition of an engine that causes it to burn, even a good oil, primarily in the ring pack area, fuel dilution etc. LS1 engines and many other different engines have a normal burn rate of so many ml per 1000k's considered normal by the manufacturer. Who knows better than them ??? Theres normal oil burn/comsumption, then there is extreme oil burning (Smokey Vehicle Hotline !!!). If you left any oil in for too long, i can guarantee you would loose some........
People are only adding their comments, no one said one is better than the other. The original question was "What have you found to be a good quality oil?" and people are voicing their opinions mate.
Of course this is what I meant without going into too much detail, a well running car shouldnt be burnin litres upon litres of oil. Also, the OP hasnt come back to this thread after his second post. I recommended HPR 30 for a 20W-60 oil and now people are chipping in for completely unrelated viscosities. all he wanted was a 20W oil, not personal opinion on how "my 5w phoenix which is awesome but you wont be able to get because it doesnt retail" talk.
Im not targeting you mate, just trying to keep on topic, but considering the OP isnt interested anymore, its pointless anyway and this thread should stop being bumped.
Sorry peoples, started an argument here and should of really searched more thouroughly for any other threads like this one. The meaning of this thread was only to get opinions, not start a war.
Valvoline...You know what I mean.
For me (5 litre) late spring to early autum 20w 50w sae/sg
and mid autum to early spring 10w 40w or 15 to 40w (what ever is avalible)
Why 10w/15w - 40w in winter well its easier flowing for cold start ups and has a good range for cold days, then as summer aproaches I use a thicker oil for the higher temps though the ecotec runs hot anyway so stick with the 20w-50w all year round IMO. semi synthetic and synthetic are better than 100% mineral keep that in mind also when shopping, as for brands valvoline is a good alround choice but there are better ones out there though expect to pay for them. eg royal purple, $$$$ though overkill for regular driving some would say.