whats all this going to cost lol

[ipsy]

im sick of going to diffrent places and they never give u a price so can you guy help me out here and just give me a rough price on each of these oh and what should i do first ?

thanks guys



Temp Sensor
Crank Angle Sensor
Throttle body needs cleaning
Idle solenoid on throttle body
Spark plugs n leads
Fuel pump
Fuel filter
Vacuum regulator
Injectors dirty ,need cleaning
Head gaskets and rocker cover gaskets leak
Manifold o rings slight leak
Brake pads and Rotors
Alternator
Coil Pack
Computer needs re-programing
Automatic Transmission and Auto computer need to be checked




Slight coolant smell , 'gurgling' sound from heater core - replace all hoses, flush radiator with correct flush (acidic or alkaline) in radiator, and replace pressure valve (on hose running down left hand side of engine on chassis rail

[levymetal]

why don't you try telling us your problem? we can't tell you what to fix if we don't know the problem.

but a rough guess for all of them, $2000-$3000. and what the **** is a 'Computer needs re-programing'. sounds like someone is taking you up shit creek.

[stockyvrcalais]

thats what i was thinking, youre being prepped for a shafting lol

[pjdm1980]

Car sounds like a money pit.
If your handy with a spanner then get a wreck for $500 and rob it for parts.
But if not sell it a start again!

[Cobez]

Temp Sensor: Does it need to be done? If not leave it alone.
Crank Angle Sensor: Same as above
Throttle body needs cleaning: Takes two minutes, buy some carby cleaner and do it at home
Idle solenoid on throttle body: Is your car idling weird? If not leave it alone.
Spark plugs n leads: About $80 very rough ball park figure depending on what plugs and leads get used. Once again, do at home, check out the "how to" section of this forum and there is a thread on how to do it, failing that, use the search function and you will find threads on how to do it. Very easy job
Fuel pump: Is it playing up? If not, leave it alone.
Fuel filter: Worth doing along with plugs, they are about $15 from Holden spare parts and about the same from Repco.
Vacuum regulator: Once again, if it doesn't need to be done, leave it.
Injectors dirty ,need cleaning: Can't hurt, not sure on prices though. I don't see how they can see INSIDE an injector to see if it's dirty. If the outsides are dirty, get a soft toothbrush and clean them gently. It's a pointless exercise though.
Head gaskets and rocker cover gaskets leak: Unless there is proof of both leaking, leave them alone.
Manifold o rings slight leak: Same as above
Brake pads and Rotors: Check them yourself, if you pads have plenty left, leave them, rotors can use a machining if not done before.
Alternator: Is your current alternator not charging up? If it's working fine, leave it.
Coil Pack: You would know if this needed replacing as your car would be conking out constantly, if not, here and there.
Computer needs re-programing: This doesn't make sense. You can't "reprogram" a stock computer. You can upgrade the computer software if you have it dyno TUNED, or you have have the memcal or "chip" flash tuned, both for performance and fuel economy. This person who told you that your ECU needs "reprogramming" is trying to stiff you. If you disconnect your battery for a few minutes then reconnect it, that can reset your ECU, but will do nothing for you except wipe off any error codes that have been logged.
Automatic Transmission and Auto computer need to be checked: Auto computer? Checked? The auto is linked to the one computer your car has. It doesn't have a seperate computer. You need to ask what they need to be checked for. Seal leaks etc.




Slight coolant smell , 'gurgling' sound from heater core - replace all hoses, flush radiator with correct flush (acidic or alkaline) in radiator, and replace pressure valve (on hose running down left hand side of engine on chassis rail

Slight coolant smell? Is your losing water? If not, just wait until something (if anything) gives way, then fix it. basically, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. Same applies to all of above.

My guess is this person is trying to screw you out of alot of cash. If ALL these things need fixing, your car wouldn't really be drivable mate.

[immortality]

My guess is this person is trying to screw you out of alot of cash. If ALL these things need fixing, your car wouldn't really be drivable mate.[/COLOR]

bingo

[Cobez]

Alternator, fuel pump, coil pack, and crank angle sensor are all key factors in a car not starting / cutting whilst driving / major running problems.

If you car drives fine, just give it a major service (fuel filter, plugs, leads, air filter clean, new oil and oil filter), cooling system flush, get your rotors machined and replace your brake pads (if needed), clean your throttle body, get your injectors cleaned and flow tested (once again, only if needed), and maybe get your trans serviced.

Other that that, unless the other stuff is playing up, tell the person who told you that you needed this stuff done, to shove it up his or her jumper.

How did this person come to think you needed all this stuff done? Were they doing a service or roadworthy on your car or........?

[ipsy]

How did this person come to think you needed all this stuff done? Were they doing a service or roadworthy on your car or........?

well the cars been playing up constantly going into limp mode and ive lost about 20% power

i took it to 5 diffrent f$ck wits and one of them gave me this list but theres bout another 15 thing misssing off the list i gave.

oh just so u know these are my problems

the auto kicks from 1st to 2nd

coolant or somthing dripping from lower radiator hose it smells abit a little like trans oil ?

car shakes alot but when hand brake is on it stops a little

pwer steering driping lightly

idel never constant aalways up and down

alty is ***ed i know that ?

[levymetal]

well, first thing's first, have you checked the error codes?
Checking error codes VR/VS (Revised)

leak:
is it coolant or trans fluid? coolant is green and dries white. trans fluid is red or might be light brown if it's old. you may need to replace bottom radiator hose ($20) or the trans cooler hoses ($10 or less), easy DIY .

auto 'kicks':
can you define the problem a bit more? could be shift kitted... otherwise might need a good service. take it to a trans shop for this, not a mechanic. clearly they have no idea... "auto computer"...

bad idle:
dirty throttle body/sensors. take off and clean throttle body and IAC valve. check all vacuum hoses. plugs/leads too. another DIY. if that doesn't fix it, perhaps CAS, but error codes should give you an idea of what's wrong... so go back to the start of this post and apply what you've just learnt.

[Cobez]

As Kris (above said), your bad idle could be dirty throttle body / bad sensors, it could also be a vacuum leak somewhere. I know my Senator has a slightly off idle, it will go up to around 900 / 1000 revs on idle, then drop down to around 500 revs, then go back up, then back down etc.

Mine is due to a split in the MAP sensor vacuum line at the back of my manifold (which i am about to go outside and fix). Yours of course is set up a bit different engine bay wise, but will suffer the same problems. As Kris said, try cleaning your throttle body, and the idle air control valve. Best to take your whole throttle body off and clean it thoroughly.

As yes coolant will dry in a sort of hard chalky white residue when it leaks and dries, whereas trans fluid will dry to a lightish brown colour, but it will look different to engine oil so. But if your power steering fluid is leaking, it might not be trans fluid that's leaking, it might just ONLY be your power steering fluid, as they are both the same colour and you can use trans fluid as power steering fluid generally.

Does your auto SLIP or does your whole car KICK out and slide when it snaps second gear? If it KICKS out in second, that's a good thing (and also not, all depending) in some cases. As also stated above, your car might have a corvette servo, which makes the gear shifts more aggressive, and if the revs hold out a bit longer than a normal auto would, it may have a shift kit in it.

Your car shakes alot? Is that when braking? It could be shaking for many reasons though. If it shudders and wobbles when you are on the brakes, then get your rotors machined for sure.

If your alternator is rooted, go to a Holden wreckers and source one off a wrecked car, saves you buying a brand new one if you don't want to pay full price for a brand new one.

[shiftySLE]

Ipsy - Is the car stock or does it look like its been tampered with and mucked around with and how long have you had it, or did you just get it? I've never heard of a mechanic quoting that many things wrong with a car in one hit. It seems a bit excessive. You didn't give him the 'open cheque treatment ' did you - "Just fix any thing that needs fixing".




Cobez - good advice, just one thing, the corvette piston doesn't actually do anything on its own, it is only a steel piston instead of aluminum so it doesn't break when extra pressure when a shift kit is applied.

[Cobez]

I always thought the servo was responsible for aggressive shifts and the shift kit was what held the revs out longer...........

[S2_VR_]

yeah i thought the servo made for aggressive shift's too.... from 1st - 2nd

[shiftySLE]

The aggressive shift comes from the spring tension of various springs and behind the servo piston, when you put a shift kit in, the pressure is a lot higher and that's what breaks or fractures the servo piston which is usually aluminum and weak (hence the need for the corvette). Fine for normal boxes which is why they are a standard item. They hold until second. If it has a crack in it, they don't have compression, like a broken ring in the engine. The car shudders on take and until second when they are no longer needed until in first or stopped and taking off again. A lot of little things make a shift kit, small holes in the plate that separate the valve body, softer, harder springs, up shift, downshift springs, modulator adjustments/pressures, vacuum and clutches just to name a few.
The old school term of a "Tricked" auto is fading away but the best term for it, basically all you are doing is tricking the auto to when they change gears and how to do it based on how much pressure you adjust it to use.

[Cobez]

Hahaha "trick auto" i haven't heard that in ages.

Cool, thanks for that man, ya learn something new everyday!

[ipsy]

thanks guys for all the info helps alot

yer had my auto checked yesterday by a mate of mine n yer my 1st to 2nd is ***ed just needs a serves n a fue parts changed so yer thanks for the help