faulty gauges

[Acclaimed VS]

OK well ever since I've gotten my car I've had problems with both the fuel guage and the temperature gauge.



When I first bought the car the temprerature guage would move up whenever i tapped the dash and the fuel guage needle would only go down to half way, so when it was on half it was empty and when it was on three quarters it would actually be half full.

I got this fixed by taking it to the mechanic and he sent it away to be fixed.

This only worked with the temperature guage, the fuel guauge stilll read like I have explained above. He said that this may be the fuel sender so he ordered in a new one and now wehn I drove the fuel needle would just bounce around anywhwere from one third full all the way up to full.


I told him of this so he sent way for a new one under the warranty claim. At the same time I also got a new radiator as the old one was 65% blocked (god knows what the idiot who owned the car before me did with it). Anyway on testing the new radiator it was discovered that the thermo fan wouldn't kick in until the engine temp was up around the 3 quarters or higher mark. We found that the new temp sensor needed a ressitor to work properly after putting a test resistor on the thermo fan would kick in at about half way up the temp gauge. This would good news as I finally had a cheap fix. He then went to buy a resisitor from dick smith while I waited. When he arrived back he said that he couldn't get a ressitor with exactly the right ohms but the one he got should do the job fine we fited it and tested it and the thermo fan kicked in at about a third up the temp gauge. Is this two low? Didi the differnt resitor play a mojor factor in this?

I don't know when the thermo fan should kick in so if you guys could all tell at about what temp the thermo fan comes on in your car that would be great. Also it seems now my car takes ages to heat up and it runs in general driving at two lines up from the bottom to a quarter which seems a bit cold, what is the normal running temp for a series one VS V6 commodore? Could this be the different ohms ressitor that he thought wouldn't have much of an effect stuffing up the sensor?

If either the thermo fan cut in temp or the running temp are different please specifiy what temp your car runs at and what temp the fan starts.

Also how long does it take on a regular day for your car to get to running temp?

Also to add to this the fuel guage still bounces around alot although it bounces around less erratically could putting a resistor on the new fuel sender rectify this problem like it did on the temp sender a resisitor to it make this stop and for it read propperly?

sorry for the long hard to read thread but nay help would be much appreciated as I have spent too much money trying to fix this and i thought i would get some opinions on here bfore I took it back thanks.

[Acclaimed VS]

bump.......... if anyone could help with this it would be much appreciated. Just went for a 30 min drive and the needle on the temp gauge didnt go pat the second line.

[hako]

There are a few threads about dry solder joints in the printed circuit board causing your gauge problems - do a search. If the petrol gauge problem is extra frustrating try resitting the trip odometer every time you fill up - costs zero.
Normal temp positions for a VS are 1/3 for normal cruising, then when you stop at traffic lights etc the temp will slowly climb to 3/4 when the temp sensor will turn the fan on to either hi or low speed. The fan will also always go on if the A/C switch is on. So, anywhere from 1/3 to 3/4 is quite normal and you don't need resistors etc!
As the engine is 100% cast iron, it is slow to heat - takes up to 20 mins to reach 1/3 in my case.

[delcowizzid]

the there is 2 different coolant sensors for vs i think depending on which sensor you have with a resistor in there it will be messing with fueling and other things not just the fan

[Acclaimed VS]

Yeah I know what you mean about the petrol gauge but if already spent quite a bit on it and so may as well get it rectifyed its stoped moving after i filled up so I'll just leave it for now and hope its stays good. (I have been using the odo but I have been getting varying economy from slowly fixing the car up and changing the o2 sensors).

The thing with the temp gague after thrity minutes (probably a bit more) it didn't even get close to a third. I am from brisbane so a winters night here isn't even that cold and I didnt use the A/C. With the temp sensor the mechanic shnaged that and the part has become obsolete so he had to get an aftermarket one. The after market one wasn't letting the thermo fan cut in till almost oveheating as soon as he attached one of those test reisitors where you can chnage the ohms the thermo cut in at about half way up the gauge which seemed about right. He then went to get a permanent resistor and said that it wasnt the ohms as the old one but it should do the trick. Since putting this in though the car has started having the problem stated above. Could the new resistor have anything to do with this or could it be todo with the new radiator being fitted.

Thanks alot for your help man.

[hako]

The coolant temp sensor also tells the ECU that the engne is warm/hot and needs to lean out the fuel mixture - I'd be more worried about this than the fan which can be forced on. Why not get a 2nd hand sensor from a wrecker. Also as delcowizzid says, there are 2 sensors, one for gauge and one for ECU which controls fuel supply and when cooling fan comes on.
Re Holden not carrying them - try contacting other holden agents as some will still have old stock.

[Acclaimed VS]

The coolant temp sensor also tells the ECU that the engne is warm/hot and needs to lean out the fuel mixture - I'd be more worried about this than the fan which can be forced on. Why not get a 2nd hand sensor from a wrecker. Also as delcowizzid says, there are 2 sensors, one for gauge and one for ECU which controls fuel supply and when cooling fan comes on.
Re Holden not carrying them - try contacting other holden agents as some will still have old stock.

Yes your right thats waht I have become worried about now- the fact that it won't warm up which can cause problems. I am taking it back to him tommorow and he is going to fit a less powerful resistor to see if that helps change the aftermarket sensor. If this doesnt work then I will try to find one from ebay or the wreckers. However he got a supposed 'genuine holden' temp sensor new which is now causing this problem so I am reluctant to go there becasue will probaly just get the exact same thing. IS the original temp sensor stuffing up a common problem with series one VS's? If i go and get one from the wreckers will it be likely to be functional or stuffed up like my original one?

[hako]

Don't think the original sensor is a common fail item. Is you mech resetting the ECU? - if not this may cause a problem.

[Acclaimed VS]

ok update took it back to the mech and he fitted a different resistor to the temp sensor, car runs welll now sits between a third and halfway on the gauge. Thanks a lot for helping.