95 VS, Error Code 47

[_tilt]

Hey guys, lately my car has been stalling on me randomly.
It has only happend twice, both times at no revs (comming to a stop and waiting at the lights) Starts fine afterwards.

Error Code was 47 - Crank Angle Reference Signal

Is this just a simple case of replacing the Crank Angle Sensor?

Also, im not sure how accurate the VS tacometers are but it idles at 200, im not even sure if thats possible which is why i suspect it's out, but it does have a slight constant shake idling like its barly running.

Car drives and feels perfect otherwise, very smooth.

Any ideas guys?

Thanks,
Daniel

[LOWPACK]

just clear the code lol

[_tilt]

Um, wouldn't mind my car NOT stalling on me...

[hako]

I think he means clear the codes by disconnecting the battery for 30 seconds and then running the car again to see if the code re-appears - although it's a fair bet that the problem is (as you say) the CAS on it's way out. I think a code 47 can also refer to the DFI module or a coil misfiring/shorting so you can never be 100% sure it is the CAS. Alsdo the throttle body and the IAC may be gummed up which will cause a bad idle - clean with TB cleaner. Also may be something simple like bad leads or a bad plug.
Good Luck.

[greenacc]

I've had code 47 before and it was a dud coil, but you would also notice a misfire or hesitation from the engine. So if its not a coil its probably the cas or a bad connection.

[_tilt]

Ohk, car does slighty hessitiate when reving not driving, any other ways of pinpointing the coil?

Would the coil cause the car to stall tho?

[greenacc]

remember the VS has 3 coils .... so if 1 is dead or faulty the engine will be running on 4 cylinders - either all the time which you would notice straight away, or just for a split second which could explain your idle probs. I'd say clean the IAC and throttle body like hako said, and check the resistance of your coils with a multimeter. You have a gregories or some other VS manual yes ?
And hesitation you mean missing ?

[hako]

Watch the engine idling in total darkness - any shorting of the coil(s) will be evident from the high voltage leakage.

[_tilt]

Cheers guys, the car doesnt really miss just for as slit second when quickly reved it hesitates,
I think it may be stalling from the really low revs, it sits at 500 when cold and drops to what looks like 200 if that when warm.
Ill give everything a good looking over this w/e
ta

[hako]

Closely inspect all vacuum hoses when you are looking.

[_tilt]

Update:
Replaced the IAC today and made no difference,

The car starts normal, revs to 1200ish then slowely drops down to 500-600 when cold and 100-200 when warm, very low.
Im thinking a vacume leak but i couldnt find any & car runs perfect, no loss in power etc
I do however get a sucking nose from the top of the plenum when reving, same sound that the intake makes, could that mean something leaking around that area?

Anyone with any ideas would be great, not wanting it to stall on me again at the lights - very embarissing lol.

[greenacc]

the hissing sound would be a vacuum leak. probably the top gasket on the plenum. You could try tightening it and see if it goes away. If you take the plenum cover right off run some oil along the gasket before closing it up...

[_tilt]

Yeah i think im going to buy a new gasket and replace it, see if this makes any difference.
What will the oil on the gasket do?

[_tilt]

Its already very tight, is this a likely problem? or a hose around the area i couldnt pin point

[[p]wrr-247]

hey ive got the same problem as you atm except mine sound like it stalls alot more and my car sits on the same revs an i have the same error code crank angle sensor or watever it is took my car 2 the mechanics for a tune didnt even do anything realy still actin the same and inside your plenum check if there is oil in side mine seems to have sum every time i open it has got me worried

[_tilt]

Havent opened my plenum, if you figure it out let me know. Could be CAS problem or leaking plenum gasket im thinking...

[alex2_s]

The tachometer scale isn't linear until 1000rpm. From the 0 'mark' , it instantly has the 500rpm 'mark' (couple of mm above), then that big gap until 1000rpm is the 500-1000rpm range

so its probably idling about 700rpm, as halfway between '0' and 1000 is about 800 rpm

that was an awkward explanation lol.

[almie]

We have a VS commodore 97' equipe we had the oil sensor changed and sump jet cleaned due to oil light coming on at low speed. Now we have the engine light coming on randomly. Car is duel fuel and this happens at 100 kms or lower.

[greenacc]

the gasket is actually a rubber seal. Oil is supposed to be used rather than gasket goo, it just helps it form an air tight seal i guess. Personally i use gear oil cos it is thicker so i figure might seal better !!? If it is tight and still leaks your seal sounds like it is stuffed so you would need a new one.

[_tilt]

The tachometer scale isn't linear until 1000rpm. From the 0 'mark' , it instantly has the 500rpm 'mark' (couple of mm above), then that big gap until 1000rpm is the 500-1000rpm range

so its probably idling about 700rpm, as halfway between '0' and 1000 is about 800 rpm

that was an awkward explanation lol.

Makes sense mate, cheers for that, i didnt think it would be possible that the car runs at what looks like 200rpm,

Ill have a closer look at the taco to see what it is running at, its diffinately lower than normal im hoping its just because of a vacume leak,

Can you raise the idle yourself on these motors via screw or similar?, didnt get a good look behind the throttle body, could be a quick fix

[alex2_s]

Makes sense mate, cheers for that, i didnt think it would be possible that the car runs at what looks like 200rpm,

Ill have a closer look at the taco to see what it is running at, its diffinately lower than normal im hoping its just because of a vacume leak,

Can you raise the idle yourself on these motors via screw or similar?, didnt get a good look behind the throttle body, could be a quick fix

nope, fuel injected cars aren't like carby engines (unfortunately)! realistically the idle SPEED should always be fine. if its misfiring (shaking etc) then it would be caused by a problem in the fuel/ignition system.

i 'assume' the service et. al. history of the car is fine... its hard to 'diagnose' a problem like this one if something simple requiring routine/scheduled replacement is just playing up (clogged air filter, 1 bad spark plug, clogged fuel filter) etc. Grabbing a gregory's wouldn't be a bad idea, and realistically WILL save you money if not now, but in the future (on labour).

Judging by the error code its probably the CAS, to be certain, clear the codes by pulling out the engine fuse for 30 seconds or so (with the paper clip NOT in the connector) and run the car, stop it, check again for those error codes.

If i were you i'd also check the resistance of all leads, the coils (grab a gregory's and multimeter or even get a mechanic to) , make sure all the connectors to the fuel injectors are plugged in correctly and all are working properly (put finger up to it, should make a click on every fire) ... DFI module wiring etc.

[_tilt]

Cheers mate, im going to change the plenum gasket leads and plugs this weekend,
If it doesn't help i will relpace the CAS, if i clear the code and it re appears

I assumed you would be able to adjust the idle via the acc. cable as I can on my vl and thats obv fuel injected.

Thanks for your help guys.

[alex2_s]

Some fuel inj. cars have an idle stop screw (similar to a carby car) which does adjust how far the throttle returns on idle, but it's not something you should need to adjust as the computer takes care of that, and the screw really is just for diagnostics etc (ie. jack the idle up so it won't stall while testing something etc).

Basically a 'tune up' is now obsoleted (having to manually adjust timing, valves, idle speed, mixture) so if something's not right, theres something mechanically WRONG with the car haha.