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Thread: VR-VS brake disc rotor removal

  1. #1
    roon_VR's Avatar
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    Default VR-VS brake disc rotor removal

    hello all, i need some help in removing the brake rotor. I don't quite know how to do it so that's why I'm here. My sister has been driving my car lately and my rear right brake has been making quite a lot of noise. I pulled off the tyre only to see that the disc has grooves all over it and there's absolutely no disc pad left. So in the end, she's been braking metal on metal. i need to know how to remove the rotor so i can go down to pick a part and remove one from there wrecks. Is it easy or should I leave it to a mechanic?

    thank you
    My car audio:

    CD tuner: Alpine CDA-9884E with Ipod interface
    Front speakers: Alpine Type R SPR-17S 6.5 component speakers, powered by a avant-garde 23dxi 2 channel amplifier - 2x51 watt RMS
    Rear speakers: pioneer coaxials connected to tuner
    Subwoofer: Alpine Type R SWR-1222D 12" 2 ohm dual voice coil 500 watts RMS powered by a response precision 2x150 watts RMS 2 channel amp bridged to 500 watts RMS @ 4 ohms

  2. #2
    Not_An_Abba_Fan's Avatar
    Not_An_Abba_Fan is offline Exhaust Guru
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    It's fairly straight forward.

    Undo the caliper and move it out of the way, but don't undo the brake line. Then the rotor just slides off. Sometimes they can be a bit sticky, so a hard smack with a hammer will loosen it. Be a bit careful as the handbrake shoes run inside the rotor and they can sometimes snag it. If it is loose but won't slide off, a bit of wiggling should do it, or you may have to loosen the handbrake a bit to get the rotor off.
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    Quote Originally Posted by DannyboyDS View Post
    I burnt my hand in a nasty way once using method one but thats because i'm a twat.

  3. #3
    roon_VR's Avatar
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    i have enclosed a picture of the rotor. From looking at the picture, is it possible to get it machine or is it to f*cked?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails VR-VS brake disc rotor removal-16092009480.jpg  
    My car audio:

    CD tuner: Alpine CDA-9884E with Ipod interface
    Front speakers: Alpine Type R SPR-17S 6.5 component speakers, powered by a avant-garde 23dxi 2 channel amplifier - 2x51 watt RMS
    Rear speakers: pioneer coaxials connected to tuner
    Subwoofer: Alpine Type R SWR-1222D 12" 2 ohm dual voice coil 500 watts RMS powered by a response precision 2x150 watts RMS 2 channel amp bridged to 500 watts RMS @ 4 ohms

  4. #4
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    its starting to look like my rear disc's,which i really should change when i get new pads for it
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  5. #5
    Not_An_Abba_Fan's Avatar
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    It will depend on how thin the rotor is. It will be cheaper to get another rotor I reckon though.
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    Quote Originally Posted by DannyboyDS View Post
    I burnt my hand in a nasty way once using method one but thats because i'm a twat.

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  7. #7
    roon_VR's Avatar
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    thank you not an abba fan, i managed to get the rotor off with a bit swearing along the way. Those bolts were really tight.
    My car audio:

    CD tuner: Alpine CDA-9884E with Ipod interface
    Front speakers: Alpine Type R SPR-17S 6.5 component speakers, powered by a avant-garde 23dxi 2 channel amplifier - 2x51 watt RMS
    Rear speakers: pioneer coaxials connected to tuner
    Subwoofer: Alpine Type R SWR-1222D 12" 2 ohm dual voice coil 500 watts RMS powered by a response precision 2x150 watts RMS 2 channel amp bridged to 500 watts RMS @ 4 ohms

  8. #8
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    If replacing the disc, the park brake shoes inside the disc hat will almost certainly need to be adjusted. To do that, back off the 13mm nuts on the park brake cable under the car. Then adjust the p'brake shoes by rotating the little toothed wheel in the park brake assembly to lengthen or shorten the spacer as required to get the shoes to just rub the inside of the disc when it's turned. Use a couple of wheel nuts, reversed to avoid damaging the taper, to hold the disc against the axle while you check.

    You can access the toothed wheel from the hole in the backing plate, from under the car, with the disc on but you can lock the disc on that way if you go to far with the adjustment. If you buy a used disc, it may be grooved inside the hat = the park brake shoes will catch in the groove when adjusted, so you may have to adjust the shoes from under the car in any case.

    Then adjust the 13mm nut on the cable to give ~8 clicks on the lever to apply the p'brake. Check both discs grab equally with the lever 1 click up (try to turn the wheel/tyre or disc+nuts). Tighten the second 13mm nut.

    (It's difficult to tell from the photos but it doesn't look as if that disc has been machined previously. If there's no really deep grooves, I would have just thrown a set of pads in and driven very gently until the pads bedded properly - probably bodgy and I wouldn't do it on anything but my own car but...)


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