point me please

[sycvs]

i need a how to pull out vs auto asap im doing it now

[DannyboyDS]

This has been answered so many times on the forums I think I did a howto on it in someone thread when they asked, no pictures though.

Anyway here goes a really quick one from memory.

Removing a VS V6 (Im assuming you have a V6?) Auto

You will need the right tools, a rattle gun, long extensions and of course sockets are a massive help, but it can be done without them, although you might spend a bit of time getting out from under the car and then back under.

1. remove the engine cover 4 10mm nuts, they tend to get broken if the engine leans back on them when the auto comes out. also while you are here remove the engine belt, 15mm socket turn it towards the drivers side on the tensioner assembly.

2. chock the rear wheels and raise the front of the car, remove one of the front wheels to allow a little more room to get the trans out (if need be) always use stands, dont be silly.

3. remove the exhaust from the cat back, undo the two nuts securing the catback to the Y pipe (two 17mm spring loaded bolts I think) then remove the Y pipe (Its a bitch to get at the bolts, penetrating oil is your best friend, or apply some heat with an oxy ) if you have extractors you will need to remove the drivers side extractor if it gets in the way of the braces, so basically remove the whole exhaust except the headers.

4. get a 13mm socket and some extensions, a uni will help too, undo the bolts retaining the lower braces (from trans to engine block)

5. undo the two phillips/10mm screws securing the inpsection plate and remove the plate.

6. with the car in neutral (this is why we chocked the rear wheels) you will be able to turn the crank to access the bolts connecting the tourqe converter to the flexplate, mark the tourqe converter and flexplate so they can be realigned later (I have been told this isn't much of an issue in the ecotec due to how they are balanced but lets not take any risks today)

7. shimmy down the rear and undo the bolts securing the tailshaft to the diff, undo them from the front most side, do not put ANYTHING on the nuts closest to the rear of the vehicle, they will lock themselves in, attempting to put a spanner on them will cause them to round.

8. shimmy back on up and undo the center bearing mount, remove the other plate inbetween the center bearing and the trans (Its the one that isn't holding anything, its meant to catch the tailshaft if it falls)

9. with all of that out of the way place a container under the extension housing (Rear most of trans where the tailshaft goes in) and remove the tailshaft, just pull it back and manouver it past the handbrake cable.

10. undo the transmission cooling lines, they are 12mm from memory and can be a bitch to get at, if you have a set of crows feet sockets you are in luck. you will find them on the drivers side of the transmission towards the front.

11. undo the bellhousing bolts, you should still have the crossmember and mount attached at this point, leave it that way too, just in case though now is a good time to put a jack under there, I find those cheap little $30 jacks are usless you will need a big one, with a large flat piece of wood on it and the wood needs to be secure so the transmission cant just tip it over, I made my own transmission jack, I made the wheelbace longer and wider, removed the part that touches the car when you are raising it and secured a massive piece of redwood there, works a treat.

12. once the bellhousing bolts are undone and the trans is secured properly by a jack or similar undo the crossmember and lower the transmission a few inches. then remove the wiring looms from the rear drivers side of the trans, there are two, a little one anda big one.

13. completely lower the trans and remove it.

I might have missed a few things, if I did sorry, go to your toolbox and pull out your common sense and you should be able to jump any hurdles, its not that hard a jopb really just annoying at times.

When putting it back in, just reverse these steps basically, use locknut on the tourqe converter to flywheel bolts and etc, etc.

the long extensions and a uni are great for the bellhousing bolts, if you wrap the uni in stikcy tape it will stay firm, sort off, then you can reach all of the bellhousing bolts from under the car lying on your back from the other side of the transmission, it makes it a real breeze especially if you have a rattle gun.

Good luck.

[sycvs]

cheers for that mate i posted this last night but mods had to look at it first got it out similar way thanks for the quick info