Blowing fuse..

[Lloydy1]

My egnition fuse keeps blowing, therefor making my car unable to start.

I have taken it to an auto elec, but they couldnt seem to find a problem, so thry have put in a circuit breaker so the fuse dsnt blow anymore..

Any thoughts why this coul be happening?

It seems to only happen when i just stop, stopped compltly, or just taking off..

I have anothet question also, at idle, what revs should my car be sitting on? I feel like its going to conk out on me as somtimes it starts shaking a little.. Its sits on about 500.. :S

cheers guys

[Lloydy1]

anyone? lol

[hako]

Should idle at 800 in neutral and 700 in drive. Re the ignition fuse - exactly which fuse are you referring to as there are a few on the ignition circuit.

[Lloydy1]

Thanks for the reply..

Should of added in my first post that it is a manual.. In neutral it idles at like 500, same thing, when im in gear with the clutch in..
Is there a way to change the Idle, so it is Idling at a higher rev?

Its the fuse in the bonnet, in the black fuse box.. A yellow one "20"..

[hako]

775 for a manual. There is a way of altering the idle or base speed but I've never done this myself...maybe a search will find something as it's been mentioned before.
The fuse marked "20"...is it the "engine" fuse? - if so I'd double check all wiring to the DFI and CAS for a start.
Might also pay to clean the throttle body and IAC....plus check that all vacuum hoses are intact.

[Lloydy1]

775 for a manual. There is a way of altering the idle or base speed but I've never done this myself...maybe a search will find something as it's been mentioned before.
The fuse marked "20"...is it the "engine" fuse? - if so I'd double check all wiring to the DFI and CAS for a start.
Might also pay to clean the throttle body and IAC....plus check that all vacuum hoses are intact.

Im fair noob at all this..
Yes, its the engine fuse, similar to the ones you have for you radio, lights,etc.. but under the bonnet..

What is a DFI and CAS, and how to i manage to check all that wiring?
Ive looked up cleaning the throttle body, but whats a IAC..

And do you think that these things can cause the fuse to actually blow?

Cheers mate

[Lloydy1]

I just want to add also that sometimes, more recently then i can remeber..
My revs will go up to like 1.5k, and you can hear my airbox sucking in air..
Me temp gage is reading at jst below half, filled up with radiator fluid last night and its still happening..

Any thoughts?

[markER717]

Im fair noob at all this..
Yes, its the engine fuse, similar to the ones you have for you radio, lights,etc.. but under the bonnet..

What is a DFI and CAS, and how to i manage to check all that wiring?
Ive looked up cleaning the throttle body, but whats a IAC..

And do you think that these things can cause the fuse to actually blow?

Cheers mate

CAS= is a Crank Angle Sensor, IAC= Idle Air Controler and DFI.. I cant help with that one.

I'm not sure where the CAS is but the IAC is one of the sensors on your throttle body, not to be confused with the TPS(throttle position sensor)

[Lloydy1]

Would a car service cover checking these? Or will i need to ask them specificaly to check them?

[hako]

It depends on the mechanic as to whether they will check individual items as requested...they are usually busy and always running late - that's one of the many reasons why many people on this forum do their own maintenance. You will save heaps of money, get the job done properly without having to leave the car at the mechanics plus get that feeling of satisfaction that you can do it.
By asking questions on this forum you've indicated that you want to learn, so the first thing I'd suggest is you get a workshop manual - Gregory's No268 seems the best as it's written in plain English. Read it and you will soon find out what all the different parts are and how to check/fix.
The DFI module is located directly below the 3 coils. Re checking the wiring, what I would do is have the engine idling and carefully move/shake all cables you can see that are around the engine area - use a short length of broomstick or dowel....NOT your hand! If the engine stalls whilst moving a wire it will give you an idea of what is at fault. Keep clear of moving parts and be very careful.
Re revs rising to 1500 and sucking noise - this sounds like you have a split vacuum hose to the throttle body or somewhere else in that region of the engine.....I'd be asking the mech to check that out.
Hope it all turns out and apologies if I sound like I am telling you what to do! Good Luck.

[Lloydy1]

Hey thanks alot for your reply!

Ok, i think i will go and buy that manual tomorrow, im guessing i can find it anywhere? Repco? Supercheap?

Bit of an update..
I was showing my old man what was going on, took him for a drive but the car didnt conk out..
Got back home and we sat in the car for about 10mins just letting it idle..
Then, my old man notice that i leave the back window demistor on the whole time (dont ask me why, lol) se we turned it off, and the cars revs picked up a little and to be honest the car just sounded alot cleaner.. Drove it around for a little after that and again no conking out.
I dont know if the back window demister "circuit" has really anything, i could have anything to do with blowing the egnition fuse (or the circuit breaker which is in there now)

any thoughts about that?
Could it be possible that that might be the course?

Ill be driving it to work tomorrow (in the city, melbourne) and hopefully will see how we go..

Cheers



Ohh, i didnt take it as you were telling me what to do either lol

[hako]

The demister drags quite a bit of power....not sure how much but I'd imagine 4 or 5 amps. With it switched on there will be a voltage drop in the ignition circuit and the ECU which controls the engine is very voltage sensitive so it's possible that the voltage drop has been sufficient to cause your problem.
However, normally this shouldn't be a problem so when you get that manual you can check further. If you need the demister, try using one of the spray-on demisters...Rain-X I think make one.
Looks like you are finding more clues! - it's all just a challenge really.

[Lloydy1]

Thanks for the reply again..


Well i drove to work today,(around 30kms), and it didnt conk out at all!
This was with the dimister off.

I dont want to get my hopes up, but hopefully this was the cause of the problem, some sort of fault.

It is a challenge, and it is getting annoying/frustration, but im up for the challenge..

So this manual you speak of, does this pretty much have everything you need to be able to work out problems like this?

[Vee-ard]

Yes, they aren't comprehensive, IE: you wont find the solution to EVERY SINGLE PROBLEM, but it will generally help out a lot. Also in a lot of cases, it can get quite technical, and you may not completely understand it. But yes, they are very useful.

It probably wouldn't have helped you in this particular situation, because if the demister was causing your car to stall that would be very unique, and I would be looking at your battery condition and alternator among other things..

[Lloydy1]

Thanks for that.


I just wont to re-add that its not just stalling my car, but infact blowing the Ignition fuse (under the bonnet, "20"), now with the circuit breaker in there, its jst conking out, and im having to wait a couple of mins before i can turn it back on, sit there, and rev it abit, because one i turn it on, the revs are only at like 100 or so, and seems like it will stall again any second..

Hopefully when i drive home tonight i will see if it conks out, or if it dosnt..

Sometimes it wont for a day, but then the next it will, and it never seems to conk out over 40km/h.. Only when i stop, or take off..

[Lloydy1]

Okay, so it had conked out again, 3 times actualy on the way home from work..
This time the egnition light came on for around a minute after i got it started again..

Thoughts?

Ive booked in for a service on wednesday but tyring to get it in on the weekend somewhere.. Dnt know if getting a service will fix anything, or if they can find the problem, but im just baffled.. I dont really know what else to do apart from taking it back to an auto elec and getting them to look over it again..

Gahh.. Cars huh?! Lol

[delcowizzid]

ignition light or the little engine symbol

[hako]

Not a partially blocked fuel filter making the fuel pump work overtime to force the fuel thru the filter?
Another thing - check the cable to the back of the alternator - the heavy one - it has a habit of overheating and becoming brittle then breaking and this causes strange electrical problems....you need to remove the cover from the motor to inspect.

[Lloydy1]

The little engine symbol..


Ok, i will do that today and let you know how i go

[delcowizzid]

check it for error codes the engine symbol means the ecu has seen an error hopefully it has logged a code for it

[Lloydy1]

mead a mate did the code checking last night after it happend.

I forgot what code it logged, but my mate looked it up and said it was the speed sensor code?

I just went out and checked the codes again now, and they seem to be flashing once, then twice 1 second later, so 12.. which is what it needs to flash?
I waited out there for about 15 flashes..

[hako]

That could be a code 24 - vehicle speed sensor - maybe it shorts and blows the fuse?, although I don't think it's in the fused ignition circuit. Anyway, that fault code was erased so must have been a random event.
I suppose now all you can do it drive the car, wait till it misbehaves and then check for fault codes again.

[Lloydy1]

i have no idea either, lol

normaly when it conks out it hasnt had the engine light come on, only has happened about twice.

Ill have to take it for a drink soon around my area, and when it conks out do the codes again.

[Lloydy1]

Not a partially blocked fuel filter making the fuel pump work overtime to force the fuel thru the filter?
Another thing - check the cable to the back of the alternator - the heavy one - it has a habit of overheating and becoming brittle then breaking and this causes strange electrical problems....you need to remove the cover from the motor to inspect.

Is this the cable that connects to the back of the alternator?
Has a rubber, mould/cover type thing on the end of it?

[hako]

Is this the cable that connects to the back of the alternator?
Has a rubber, mould/cover type thing on the end of it?

Correct - peel the cover back and wiggle the cable to see of it's loose...it should be tight. Disconnect the battery before doing this as the wire is unfused and will kill your battery if it shorts out.
Also I've been thinking and I keep going back to a blocked fuel filter. New they are under $20 and simple to change - only a slim chance that's the problem but it's something that should be regularly changed.