VS loud squeak when air con is turned on

[VSPantha]

Hey Peepz,

I've got a squeak starting to develop in my engine bay... only just noticable with the air con off, but when the air con is on it's loud and REALLY annoying. It's a 5lt SS with 165K on the clock, I've only had it for 3 1/2 months and this noise has been there for the past week or so. Before the squeak, the air con belt started to slip under light acceleration, so I tightened up the belt (made sure it wasn't overtightened) and everything was good for a couple of weeks until this. Anybody have any ideas on what could be the cause or should I take it in to get checked out?
Thanks in advance

[hako]

Sounds like a pulley bearing is about to seize and is running dry - remove the fanbelt and spin all pulleys - one will probably feel stiff or rough and that will be the culprit. Do it soon because if it fails you will be stranded on the side of the road.

[VSPantha]

Thanks will check that this afternoon. Just to make sure... are you talking about the aircon belt tensioner pulley specifically? If it is cactus, do I need to replace the whole pulley or just the bearing??

[hako]

It may not be the aircon pulley (which spins when aircon is OFF) - it may be waterpump, power steering or whatever else runs from that belt. When you put the aircon on, it loads the belt and may make another pulley squeal. It's immaterial anyway because when you remove the belt and turn everything by hand you should be able to feel the stiffness/roughness.
If it is the aircon idler pulley it may have a replaceable bearing...not all do but when you inspect the pulley you should be able to see if it's replaceable.

[VSPantha]

I didn't get time to check all of the belts as it's getting dark... I pulled off the a/c tensioning pulley, checked the bearing. It seems to spin freely but I could feel a bit of roughness when it spun. The power steering pump pulley seems to have about 1/2mm front to back movement... is that normal? I checked fluid levels etc and all seems good and there's nothing leaking around the ps pump.
While I was under the car I noticed there is a tiny leak at the bottom of the radiator. I pulled the cap off the tank and the water was a bit low... the overflow tank was also down a bit... and there's a bit of redish brown greasy slick floating around in there... which I'm guessing is tranny fluid. Just what i wanted! NOT...
So next thing... repair or replace?? It's the original radiator ('96 model)... I got quoted ~$200-250 to repair it, or ~$400 for a new one. I'd personally opt for the new one seeing as it's over 13 years old. Anyone here have any suggestions? I need to get this sorted out asap... I use my car for work and have a 25km trip each way to town so I don't wanna get stuck on the side of the road or worse cook the engine if the leak gets worse. Can any Townsville people reccomend a mechanic or radiator fixit person who doesn't charge the earth? I'm only new up here from Sydney so don't know anybody. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

[VSPantha]

I had a mechanic friend look at the squeal and he told me the belts are all a bit loose still... and the idler pulley was rough (as I thought earlier). So... I bought a new idler pulley which is 1000 times smoother than the one that was on there and replaced it this afternoon. As for the leaking radiator, I bought a new one yesterday, along with a new thermostat and gasket. The guy I bought the radiator off told me to get an 82 degree thermostat, compared to the standard 88 degree one... I'm guessing this means it'll open up a little earlier and lower temps slightly? Anyways it's in there now so lets hope it works well!
Was hoping to do the new radiator install first thing this morning, unfortunately that got delayed till this afternoon due to a particularly aggressive 6foot yellowbelly black snake that decided it wanted to take cover under my car... best not to mess with them so I waited till he moved on and the coast was clear.
I flushed the block and heater with the thermostat out, was pretty clean in there so that's all good.
Now for the questions! I've not had a lot of mechanical experience (lots of electrical and stereo installs though) so please be patient with my noob questions!
After flushing the block there's still water in there obviously... I've been reading on the forums to remove the knock sensor to fully drain the block? Where is that on the V8 engine? I've looked through my max ellery's but can't find anything about it... I thought knock sensors were only on the HSV 185i's?
When I put the new radiator in tomorrow morning, I just install it, connect hoses, tighten fittings etc. Then pour in coolant and distilled water... do I have to bleed it (i've only been able to find references on here for V6 engines that have a bleeder valve) or do I just put the radiator cap on and fill up the reservoir and it self bleeds? Then keep topping up the reservoir as needed after a short drive? Check for leaks etc?
Once the block is fully drained... how much fluid will it take to fully fill the block and radiator?? I read on here somewhere it's 12 litres?? others say 8 litres?

I also heard that you can spray WD40 lightly on the belts?? Has anyone hear of or done this before? I thought that stuff was to make things slippery??
Thanks in advance

[hako]

I know little of the V8's but I'd imagine they do not have knock sensors especially if they are running distributors....think you need an ECU controlled ignition system for them. However, I wouldn't worry too much about any residual coolant left behind - as long as you flush water from the garden hose thru the engine in both directions and also thru the heater (disconnect hoses where they go thru bulkhead an flush thru these). Then, when you have put it all back together again and rechecked that all hose clamps are tightened, add the concentrated collant first then top up with distilled or tank water till full.....do this slowly (to avoid airlocks) and measure the amount that you add so you have a fair idea of how full it is. Then I'd put the cap on, start the engine and let it get warm for maybe 3 minutes with the heater on ...then stop the engine, and remove the cap to add more water if needed. (squeeze the top radiator hose first to make sure it's not pressurised). If OK then I'd check for any leaks and go for a 10 minute drive around the block which should be sufficient to warm the engine enough for the thermostat to open. Watch the temp gauge while you go on this drive. Interesting thing about temp gauges - if you lose all your coolant thru a burst hose or whatever, the gauge can read either normal or go to cold as the sensor is no longer immersed in coolant....so don't always rely on gauges!.
Re amount of coolant - like you say, the book says 12 litres....but if you can get at least 8 litres then you would be doing good as the 12 litres is dry and there are nooks and crannies everywhere inside the block and heads.
I wouldn't use WD40 on the belts for the reasons you suggest - the belt should need no lubricant or anything unless the pulleys or the belt are worn - if they are then use some chalk or a belt anti-slip product. The benefit of chalk is that it absorbs any oil on the belt/pulleys which will make the belt slip plus works as an abrasive to help the belt grip....and it's cheap and available - just rub it along the 'V' of the belt. Try not to overtighten the belts either as this will result on extra stress on all belt-driven components which eventual failure. But is belt and pulley are in good condition and correctly tensioned they will not slip.
Sounds like you're doing well.

ps...just noted that you are in Townsville - we moved from there 2 years ago - from Rupertswood. I never used mechanics but I know they are always flat out - heard good reports about the wrecker and adjoining mechanic in Oonoomba just over the river from Rosslea near that new estate with the big chimney...can't remember their name.

[VSPantha]

Thanks for your reply Hako.

So I shouldn't worry about the bit of tapwater left in the block after flushing? Was just concerned if it might cause corrosion. The block is really clean thru the water channels (from what I could tell after yesterdays flush) so I want to keep it that way.

I'm a bit dubious about using WD-40 on the belts... but do have powdered chalk here so I might try that once I get the new radiator sorted out.

Yeah I'm in the 'ville... came up here from Sydney... apart from the massive culture shock (and the temperature difference) it's not too bad