Alright guys, my new motor is in, second hand from the wreckers, Its a VR V6 Auto.
My problems are as follows:
*Engine light always on(After started for 5 seconds +/-): Code 43 - Knock Sensor I'm guessing will cause it? (I accidentally broke the wire connected to the solenoid of the knock sensor.)
*Oil light turns on after about 10 seconds and flickers, and isn't fully on, its like half lit up and some times it bright, but flickers through both: No idea what the go with this is, new filter, new oil, and lifter free and running on the full line. Oil is moving around the engine, i have taken the cap off and spotted oil.
*Code 36 - Vacuum Leak: Looked and found nothing.
*Car likes to shake a bit of idle, but if held on 1500 or abouts or more, it will be fine.
*The car is a bitch reversing while riding the breaks down a slight hilled drive way, by this i mean, shaking and stupid noises from the back end and front.
*The power steering is slightly pink looking haha.
*Just got a new key and now i am getting a Thief Deterrent Signal Missing: The key body is from a later model car.
EDIT: Changed a few problems, some got better and some got worse.
Cheers for the help guys, i might get a mech around soon but i thought id check here first.
Last edited by BONSVR; 08-11-2009 at 08:17 PM.
selling vp calais wheels with 97% rubber hardly used!
check the wire to the oil pressure switch. It could be broken or shorted or not connected ... that will solve your oil light issue., or could be a faulty switch.
Checked the plugs and leads ? old dirty ones could be giving rough idle.
Yeah i wanna get the switch checked soon, although it does look like the one i brought at repco for my old engine i had. might do a swap over :P when i get money for new oil that is.
I have new plugs, those bosch super 4 ones of here, someone was selling.
Although the leads are from the old engine and i want to replace them so i will soon, thanks![]()
selling vp calais wheels with 97% rubber hardly used!
I'd pull the plugs and closely inspect each plug for evidence of a blown head gasket - look for a clean area around where the electrode meets the porcelain. Once an engine and exhaust system is warmed up it should not emit any water or condensate ......if it does there is coolant entering the combustion chambers.
I Had to pull over off the highway the other night, temp gauge in the red, oil light + engine light both on and a little smoke coming out from under the bonnet. no visible leaking fluids and coolant overflow tank still full. All that i could hear was a sucking sound from coming from inside the engine.
I went back next day to find coolant tank and radiator both empty with no leaks on the ground underneath the car. checked oil for signs of coolant but found none. filled cooling system back up when raa came to tow the vehicle. got it started and drove it onto the car trailer.
I got it home had a mate come round to check it out. we found water coming outta the exhaust, definitely missing a beat and he suggested it was a head gasket.
We haven't checked to narrow it down to left or right side but i figure ill change both at the same time. (although a little uneasy as to not knowing the cause for the head gasket damage in the first place.)
I called around and looks like head gaskets separately are gonna cost $50ea
There is a valve regrind kit for $300 dont know what parts are in it wondering if anyone would be able to shed some light on that?
Then there is the pedestal bolts that need to be replaced got a price of $150 does that sound about right?
Could there be any extra parts i might need before i begin?
If anyone could help with some info or tips that would be awesome..
Im going to follow the Gregory's VS manual for the repair job...
Thanks in advance for any help
To both you dudes:
If you want to do it cheap just pull the plugs and find which side is gone....it would be rare for both to go at the same time. At a minimum you will need a inlet gasket and a head gasket. In theory you should get the head skimmed in case it's distorted but if you sit it on a flat plate of glass and look under you should be able to figure if it's bent. You'll also need coolant. Use the old bolts.
But like I say, that is the bare minimum to get the engine going with no guarantee of how long it will last.
To do it properly follow what Gregorys says...it will cost but you will know it's done right.
The possible bright light is that it may not be a head gasket at all ---- may just be an inlet manifold gasket (which will make that sucking noise.) So before you go out buying gaskets etc etc, remove the inlet manifold and check the gasket.............maybe, just maybe it's that.
cheers for the valuable info hako! much appreciated.
will post progress as it happens.
BUMP still need help.
selling vp calais wheels with 97% rubber hardly used!
Rough idling will be related to the vacuum leak I'd bet, you say you had a look, I would check again. Also check the throttle body isnt covered in carbon.
As for the power steering being pink, the fluid is supposed to be red/pink, it needs changing when it hits red/brown. Or do you mean its pissing out everywhere?
BUMP Still need help.
selling vp calais wheels with 97% rubber hardly used!