Hi guys, just asking this question i have a vs commodore exc ecotec v6 and the engine seems to idle very roughly and has a bad vibration before you even put it in drive but once you take off and start moving its much better. Have been inspecting but so far no clue as to wat it is...cud it be balance wise? or something more major...thanks in advance
having the same problem in a VR
selling vp calais wheels with 97% rubber hardly used!
yeah i ran the code check and got 76 which is air/fuel ratio variation between left and right banks????
That could mean injector(s) blocked/dirty on one bank or plugs/leads misfiring on one bank or one of the coils dodgy for a start. Unfortunately tracing this type of problem means a process of elimination....I'd lean towards checking plugs and leads first, then the coils.
i had alot of vibtation on my vs and it was the engine mounts that was no good once i replace them vibration was gone
hmm engine mounts i did think of that...better go and check them out coz there is no miss in the engine at all just vibration so thats y plugs leads and injectors i dont think are the issue as there is no miss
Hi,
I'm having the same problem in my VS Berlina Wagon. How did you go with sorting out the vibration? Was it engine mounts?
These engine mounts collapse before they actually break.With the collapsed ones its hard to tell if they are stuffed or not,you would have to measure where an engine sits in the engine bay when its fitted with new engine mounts then and compare the measurements to the engine sits in the engine bay with the old mounts ..My engine sat about an inch or more higher in the engine bay after replacing them.They helped big time to get rid of a bad vibration. .My car had a bad vibration,I replaced the engine mounts,gearbox mount,the centre bearing and uni joints and all the rear axle control arm bushes.It runs perfectly smooth now.If the actual engine itself is vibrating,(my vibration was from the middle of the car near the transmission), then check the harmonic balancer.If the plugs ,leads and coils show to be ok then the air/fuel variation between cylinders error code could also be caused a bad oxygen sensor on one side, or a vacuum leak on one side of the inlet manifold.
Hi Guys
I have 2 stuffed engine mounts and was wondering how hard it is to change them and what is involved in changing them
Help would be greatly appreciated![]()
After lifting the weight off the mounts with a block of wood on sump and jack.
I've only ever removed complete engines with mounts still attached.
The 4 bottom nuts are easy, but the 2 upper nuts are harder to get too on the pass side if you have A/C. The pump has to be moved out of the way.
Perhaps you can lift the engine enough once the bottom nuts are undone to make it easier to get to the pump.
First and third image is pass side, you can see the upper nuts and 2nd is driver side,
4th is wrong image, please ignore!
Last edited by v6lux; 19-04-2010 at 07:30 PM. Reason: I "tarded" adding the images
Thanks for that at lest I know now what is needed Pic helped to
Yeh mate sounds like engine mounts to me. Me and a mate tried changing engine mounts on my ride two weeks ago. Had an engine hoist to lift the engine just enough to do the swap, rear mount under gearbox and front passenger side weren't too hard but drivers side front mount was very hard to do. If i could turn back time i would have paid someone to do it for me
Hi
what was hard about it . I was under the impresstion that passengers side was the bad one becauce of the air con pump